CHATPRIVACYDONATELOGINREGISTER
DMT-Nexus
FAQWIKIHEALTH & SAFETYARTATTITUDEACTIVE TOPICS
12NEXT
Another look at P.Cubensis cultivation Options
 
Espurrr
#1 Posted : 7/3/2019 2:08:41 AM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
Sporework:

if you have a print, scrape some on the middle of your agar plates (i usually try 6 but you can do more or less with your respective situation) and wait for mycelium to grow, two types of fast and vigorous growth can be spotted as potential fruiters one is a rhizomorphic section and a tomentose section, try to isolate the best tissue on the growth away from the spore drop point to avoid isolating multiple strains

After isolation on a new agar plate you should see if you isolated a singular tissue based on how it grows and should proceed to spawn both types of mycelium and fruit them in a small box, this is usually to speed up the process of reaching a tissue clone from fruit stem so first we make sure our mycelium fruits and second we dont waste time and resources

Usually cloning the best fruit from clusters after pinning results in a uniform and strong mycelium, 5 times cloning from fruit is usually the time to take a new spore print just in case the mycelium starts mutating or degenerating, usually when you repeat the process of spore work and fruit tissue work a total of 5-6 cycles your mushrooms look and act significantly different compared to the starting spore batch, this is also the method used to domesticate (whatever that means) wild mushrooms, and mixing differnt spores on agar and moving on with the process can result in crossing stable genetics, so this concludes general sporework for the home grower

Agar:

Simple agar:
30g light malt extract + 0.5g gypsum (optional) / 1L of reverse osmosis water (stable ph)

Complicated agar:
30g light malt extract + 3g yeast extract+ 3g activated carbon / 1liter of reverse osmosis or mineral water

Horticulture fertilizer agar:
Ive had good results from using 2-4 ml of commercial organic carbohydrate fertilizers made from sugar cane or molasses or agave ...
/1L reverse osmosis water

bring to a hard boil for 5 minutes and then let it cool, measure pH of room temp solution and if 6.8 (my personal fav based on results) proceed (you can also create a premix for yourself after getting your agar mix to perfection)
Bring to a boil and add 30g of agar/liter and stir until fully dissolved

stir and move the agar medium to autoclave glass bottles (has a plastic screwed lid) and sterilize for 30 minutes at 15psi or 45 minutes in a home pressure cooker (if using a jar you should poke a hole in and fill with polyfill so the agar doesn't boil out of the glass, open the de-pressure valve at a minimum and when the pressure inside your unit is the same as the room proceed to take the glasses out, fill 75% the volume of the glass MAX to prevent overflow)
Let the solution cool to 60 Celsius and pour into agar plates in front of the hood or SAB

While transferring choose the most healthy and rigorous sector of the mycelium and cover the dish with breathable parafilm or other suitable materials

Colonize in 27.3C (possible up to 30c but that might stress the mycelium over time) and store in the fridge at 8C stable

Tissue sampling:
Take the apex fruit (which contains markers you desire) and in a sterile manner bring into the SAB or the hood, cut open with sterile blade (preferably use a tiny blade on a scaple) and without damaging the tissue gently leave it on the agar dish
taking tissue from different parts of the stem and cap produced different results, i'd like to isolate the most potent section of the mushroom which ime is just where the puff in base of the stem is ending)

sectoring tissue from cloned agar plates is important, firstly if mycelium is growing puffy or dense , likely pH is not in the correct range, adding more agar (up to 30g/liter) can also improve mycelium integrity and health but is not a main factor of mycelial health
only sector the most healthy tissue from the plates and transfer

Liquid culture:
Lc jars need a 2 micron filter patch and a silicone syringe port (make sure not to dent or bend lids and make perfect holes and ) and magnet bars (~3cm)

0.5L jars seem to be a good standard

2g of organic honey ( + maybe 1g of nutritional yesst if youre going for thicker Lcs) / liter (reverse osmosis or ph neutral mineral water, always check ph at each stage and make sure its close to 6.8 or so) , fill about 2/3rds of the jars with a magnetic bar included and autoclave for 25 minutes at 13psi (overt pressure will carmalize the carbs and yield unclear solution which makes it harder to spot contamination) and colonize at 27.3c and stirr on fast for until tissue shreds every 3 days, before 75% colonization use the lc or store in the fridge at 8c

Spawn:
i use a 2:1 grain:water, 1000g millet + 500g water autoclaved at 16psi for 3 hours (keep it simple stupid)

close the lid if you have a modified 2 micron filter patch lid (which is enough, but i personally drill a 1cm diameter hole in the middle of the lid and fill it with poly-fill)

Pressure cook in 15psi for 3hours And transfer while cooled to room temp in front of the hood or SAB

1 whole plate (8-12 cm diameter) / 3ml Liquid culture in 1L of spawn

Colonize at 27.3c shake after 30% colonization

Every 1 liter spawn jar can be used in g2g for 2 x 1.5 liter spawn bags for a very fast colonization time

Bulk sub:

3 parts coco-coir/canna-coir + 8 parts horse manure + 3 parts large vermiculite + 3 parts hay (rainwater hay) + 1 part rice bran (supplementation) + 0.5 part gypsum + 0.2 part composted chicken manure (like planet star/ optional) + 200g epsom salt (optional) + 20g nutritional yeast (optional)

and mix throughly with a clean mixer tool
hydrate with filtered water until 10-20 drops fall when squeezed (or google field capacity 75+%)

bring the water youre going to mix in the sub to a boil before adding and then close the bag with a ziptie and keep it somewhere insulated until it cools down hours later (~6h) and it is pasturized
You should ideally use your sub right away


Tubs:
12.5 cm thickness substrate in 50L monotubs
6 holes each 4cm in diameter will be cut, 4 of which will be 5-10cm below the lid surface and facing each other and 2 will be 5-10cm above the sub surface (make sure the tub is completely isolated and sturdy which means made from quality plastic) cut holes near the bulk in front and the back and holes below the lid in the sides (all this is for circulation)

Clean the tub with 70% isopropyl and spread your garbage bag inside and also spray your bag and let it dry, mix the spawn and bulk in front of the flow hood or somewhere with still air and sprayed , after fumes are gone u can light a torch inside too, close the lid and colonize at 27.3c

Patch the holes with either special mycology filters which are thin paper/fabric filters with 20micron holes or use poly-fil

Spread quality garbage bag (sprayed and cleaned) in the tub and mix in a 1:3 spawn:bulk ratio (and make sure you are actually mixing 1:3 spawn:bulk by volume)

Then add 5cm layer of sub on top and spray preboiled water (if you feel the sub isnt quite fresh) and close the lid
Colonize at 27.3c

Pinning:
after about 10 days where mycelium has consolidated in the tubs, slowly reduce the temp over 3 days after the sub is almost fully colonized to 20c then open the lid and put it backwards or open two filtrted holes from top and buttom, wait for pins and fan the tubs with their lid for 2-3 minutes twice a day

blue and violet leds can be used to provide pinning directions and the circulation from the holes must be opened

Try to maintain temps below 27c while lights are on and below 22c while lights are off

If surface is drying and no small water droplets can be seen spray pre boiled water with a fine mister

attaching a few 420nm 1 watt LEDs to each tub will improve the chances of a consistent pinset, RH must be maintained at 99% (monotub walls always semi wet) before and while pinning, after colors start to appear on all pins RH can be dropped down to 96%, not lower (performance loss)
12on12off light times and when fully colonized and ready to pin, if you come across low humidity try to isolate the tub better and spray some pre-boiled mineral water but cooled in the fridge to increase the RH


Harvest:
before veils are opened (not while and not after) is a great time to harvest, concerning aesthetics and potency, fruit bodies can be taken from base of the stem, rotate clockwise and counter clockwise and pluck with ease, taking them straight to the dryer

Drying:
using heat to dry the mushrooms will be detrimental to their potency and looks, build a simple dryer with a sturdy and big cardboard box, design several floors with nets and attach the strongest fan you can buy into a hole cut specifically for the fan, poke a few holes on the other side of the cardboard, open and lay the fruit bodies after harvest and turn the fan on after closing the cardboard box, within 24h these should be cracker dry, its also important to seal them in vacuum bags straight from the drier to maintain potency and long storage

For a simpler tek search for "broke boi tek"
Surprisingly or not this technique can be adapted to all sorts of mushrooms if you know their desired temptures respectively and is sure to yield good results with reishi - lions mane - shittake - enoki - oysters - chestnut etc...
I guess cordycep cultivation is different
Maybe we'll do a section for amanita wine someday
Dedicated to the mushroom and all of its patrons

Espurrr attached the following image(s):
20190713_032944.jpg (3,634kb) downloaded 639 time(s).
20190713_033330.jpg (4,564kb) downloaded 629 time(s).
20190713_033411.jpg (4,537kb) downloaded 613 time(s).
20190822_074342.jpg (4,476kb) downloaded 609 time(s).
20190830_154248.jpg (4,956kb) downloaded 604 time(s).
20190830_104217.jpg (3,120kb) downloaded 596 time(s).
20190904_101707.jpg (3,384kb) downloaded 597 time(s).
20200301_203817.jpg (4,651kb) downloaded 128 time(s).
20200301_205646.jpg (4,651kb) downloaded 128 time(s).
 

STS is a community for people interested in growing, preserving and researching botanical species, particularly those with remarkable therapeutic and/or psychoactive properties.
 
Espurrr
#2 Posted : 9/8/2019 4:57:48 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
bump
tek coming live
 
Brennendes Wasser
#3 Posted : 9/8/2019 9:30:00 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 555
Joined: 23-Sep-2017
Last visit: 12-May-2021
Insane Shroomies Shocked Shocked Shocked The last Picture is a true Pinup Cube Laughing Laughing Laughing
Check the

BIG Analysis on DMT !

Lots of interesting and possibly new stuff unraveled ;o
 
Espurrr
#4 Posted : 9/9/2019 9:38:00 AM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
i've been working on this for 3 years now, this tek is sure to run quick, yield much, and surprise you in terms of potency!
more pictures and videos over time Thumbs up
 
Felnik
#5 Posted : 9/9/2019 5:58:02 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 1760
Joined: 15-Apr-2008
Last visit: 06-May-2021
Location: in the Forest
Very scientific I like it
The only way of discovering the limits of the possible is to venture a little way past them into the impossible.
Arthur C. Clarke


http://vimeo.com/32001208
 
Espurrr
#6 Posted : 9/12/2019 3:51:50 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
Felnik wrote:
Very scientific I like it

hi !
about that, im planning to send my agar medium, spawn, Liquid medium, prepared substrate and dry fruit sent for analysis, so when thats done i'll share the specs
what i think would make that significant is I've experimented to predict the most healthy, speedy, high yielding, potent approach to cultivating cubensis, and maybe from the analysis, we can come to a general consensus about the natural preferences of psilocybe cubensis
any other ideas are also appreciated
 
doubledog
#7 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:12:08 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 341
Joined: 02-Dec-2017
Last visit: 14-May-2021
Location: right side of the river
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.
 
Espurrr
#8 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:27:58 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination
 
doubledog
#9 Posted : 9/12/2019 5:49:40 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 341
Joined: 02-Dec-2017
Last visit: 14-May-2021
Location: right side of the river
I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)
 
Espurrr
#10 Posted : 9/12/2019 6:51:38 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)

oh, i haven't had any issues either autoclaved , pasturized, or simply boiled vermiculite chunks drained and spread on the surface
 
doubledog
#11 Posted : 9/12/2019 9:32:18 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 341
Joined: 02-Dec-2017
Last visit: 14-May-2021
Location: right side of the river
Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.
 
Espurrr
#12 Posted : 9/13/2019 3:28:12 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.

makes sense, i wanted to remove coco coir from the tek before but thought maybe its better in a mix
when working with synthetics high grade coco coir seems to do a good job, however
 
Chaska
#13 Posted : 9/29/2019 6:27:14 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 203
Joined: 11-Jun-2016
Last visit: 28-Apr-2021
Location: Ancash
amazing. with a new focus on cube cultivation im finding this inspiring. cant wait to see the rest of the pics
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#14 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:35:11 PM

Mushroom Explorer


Posts: 519
Joined: 18-Jan-2013
Last visit: 27-Feb-2021
Location: Mushvile
Superb! very accurate!

Couldn't of said better!

There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

But your mix is excellent and your results show in your perfectly formed mushrooms.

Loving it!

<3

I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
infinitynlove
#15 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:49:28 PM

Mushroom Explorer


Posts: 519
Joined: 18-Jan-2013
Last visit: 27-Feb-2021
Location: Mushvile
Espurrr wrote:
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination


Casings, if not done right, are often a source of contamination.

I have had several contams from casing layers when I first got started. Reading the posts of many the trusted cultivators on the shroomery I noticed that they often move away from casing layers, for this reason.

If the sub is really thick, 5" and above, and the humidity is kept above 90% rh, a casing layer often isn't required.

Casing layers are really useful if you have a thin sub, under 3", as they add a layer of moisture that prevents the sub from becoming to dry they also reduce the need for regular misting / spraying.

They are a requirement for pf cakes! the diff in yield can be 100% increase when using dunk and roll + top casing for pf cakes

late casing on bulk often works well, which is simply adding a casing layer once knots are visible.

<3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#16 Posted : 10/1/2019 3:00:28 AM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
Quote:
There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

hi , yes maybe run off water from millets then added gypsum light malt extract (or even using molasess) , i'd check to see if my agars ph is at about 7 after making it although cubensis feeds in a wide range of ph in mediums but since we're trying to balance the grain and bulk sub on 7 then it'd be better if it always stays in that ph

what i did for mono0tubs this time is in the pictures below
so now i won't let any spawn remain near to the surface of the sub, to get thousands of pins consistently in the monotub
when tubs are 75% i move them to 17C for a day then 23C stable, it stops growing like before and some days later (very soon) you see these pins on the bed
so in my mind im far away from the perfect grow, but someday soon its gonna happen
so i've asked people max dried grams they got from a tub, the answers were mostly ranging between 200-300 g (70L monotub 12.5cm thick beds)
so far 1 time we did something that made this monotub make 300g dry in the first flush , the cake looked sort of destroyed
so when tossing it, there was so many thousand new pins on it and growing, so for whatever reason we tossed those, but some factors were off with that formulation specially in terms of ph and some nutes being way more concentrated than the others, anyway
im thinking if by some tek you can have a monotub that produces 500g dry in 2 flushes, destroying the cake completely, that'd be superb ?
keep getting reminded of somebody writing a paper about growing cubes in a jar in ancient egypt, if they knew whats going on in our apartments now ! Very happy
so anyway, here is cubensis with no casing layer , 7 days from spawn + 4 days in the monotub + 6 days in the fruiting room = 17 days to first pin
Espurrr attached the following image(s):
20190929_122721.jpg (3,608kb) downloaded 399 time(s).
20190929_122657.jpg (2,467kb) downloaded 400 time(s).
 
Chaska
#17 Posted : 10/17/2019 12:07:52 AM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 203
Joined: 11-Jun-2016
Last visit: 28-Apr-2021
Location: Ancash
KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#18 Posted : 10/17/2019 2:24:52 PM

Mushroom Explorer


Posts: 519
Joined: 18-Jan-2013
Last visit: 27-Feb-2021
Location: Mushvile
Chaska wrote:
KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!


I read that 80f is enough for incubation / colonisation as they mycelium generates its own heat and adds approx 5-6f to incubation temp, with 86 f internal temp being ideal.

So an incubation temp of 80f = 85/86f internal cake / jar temp.

I hear higher temps are more suitable to mold, so higher temps = more chance of contams, and no one likes contams!

To end all doubts I should do a side by side where I incubate some mold at diff temps and incubate some shrooms at the same temps to find the optimum growth of mycelium vs mold growth.

80f has worked great for me so far, whatever works for you.... fruiting at 76f is ideal, but once fruiting you can raise the temp for faster shroom growth, but it makes weaker shrooms. ime slower shroom growth = stronger shrooms.

Oh and don't let them sit in the sun when growing, ime it reduces potency considerably.

Peace <3


I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#19 Posted : 10/19/2019 2:24:08 PM




Posts: 327
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 13-May-2021
Location: Iran
81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C
 
infinitynlove
#20 Posted : 10/21/2019 7:54:51 AM

Mushroom Explorer


Posts: 519
Joined: 18-Jan-2013
Last visit: 27-Feb-2021
Location: Mushvile
Espurrr wrote:
81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C


I would be interested to know more about genetic deterioration, I have noticed old spores and old mycelium show signs of senility, which is down to genetic deterioration over time, but I was not aware that this would happen with a slightly higher temp of 86f ?

Agreed Lower fruiting temps are a must for high potency and high density mushrooms.

Loving the tek and the shroom picks Smile

inf <3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
12NEXT
 
Users browsing this forum
Guest

DMT-Nexus theme created by The Traveler
This page was generated in 0.075 seconds.