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Advanced P.Cubensis cultivation Options
 
Espurrr
#1 Posted : 7/3/2019 2:08:41 AM




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Location: Iran
Agar:
30g light malt extract + 15g ground dry millets + 4.7g spent coffee ground + 1g calcium carbonate + 1g activated carbon / 2 liter of distilled water, bring to a hard boil for 30 minutes and then let it cool (or until solution volume is reduced to half), measure pH of room temp solution and if between 7.5 and 7.2 proceed and if lower add more calcium carbonate
Pass the solution through coffee filter (once is enough) and bring to a boil, add 15g of agar/liter and once foam begins to form turn the stove off, stir and move the agar medium to autoclave glass and sterilize for 30 minutes at 121c (autoclave glass should have a couple of small holes poked in so the agar doesn't boil out of the glass, fill half to 75% the volume of the glass MAX)
Let the solution cool to 60 Celsius and pour into agar plates in front of the hood or SAB
While transferring choose the most healthy and rigorous sector of the mycelium and cover the dish with plastic wrapper or tape or parafilm

Colonize in 27.3C and store in the fridge at 8C

Tissue sampling:
Take the apex fruit (which contains markers you desire) and in a sterile manner bring into the SAB or the hood, cut open with sterile blade (preferably use a tiny blade on a scaple) and without damaging the tissue gently leave it on the agar dish
taking tissue from different parts of the stem and cap produced different results, i'd like to isolate the most potent section of the mushroom which ime is just where the puff in base of the stem is ending)

sectoring tissue from cloned agar plates is important, firstly if mycelium is growing puffy or dense , likely pH is not in the correct range, adding more agar (up to 30g/liter) can also improve mycelium integrity and health
only sector the most healthy tissue from the plates and transfer

Liquid culture: *working with LC will likely have detrimental effects on the integrity of your tissue genetic health and performance*
Lc jars need a 2 micron filter patch and a silicone syringe port
Organic coco water + water (reverse osmosis works best) , fill about 2/3rds of the jars with a magnetic stirr included and autoclave for 20 minutes at 121c and colonize at 27.3c and stirr for 3 seconds on fast every 3 days, before 75% colonization use the lc or store in the fridge at 8c

Spawn:
Soak large millo only for master jars and whole oats for g2g, soak large millo/whole oats in 1% calcium carbonate solution for 24 hours, bring to a simmer for about 15 minutes while stirring and then strain and spread , they will be dry very soon so better fill the jars up (i use straw in there too for improved breathing)

Fill 2/3rds of the jar and close the lid if you have a modified 2 micron filter patch lid (which is enough, but i personally drill a 1cm diameter hole in the middle of the lid and fill it with poly-fill) and if you have plastic lids screw it loose
Autoclave in 121c for 90 minutes (can be done with 45min but just in case?) And transfer while at room temp in front of the hood or SAB
Colonize at 27.3c
Every 1 liter spawn jar can be used in g2g for 2 x 1.5 liter spawn bags for a very fast colonization time

Bulk sub:
2 parts composted chicken manure + 2 parts composted ostrich manure + 4 parts composted horse or cow or buffalo or donkey manure + 4 parts straw + 2 parts large vermiculite + 0.14 parts calcium carbonate and hydrate with 1% humic fulvic liquid until 5 to 10 drops fall when gently squeezed
Autoclave for 3 minutes in 121c to pasturize and use in a 1:3 spawn:bulk ratio (be careful not to damage the spawn too much while mixing it into the bulk sub, maintaining mycelium integrity will improve overall performance)
Colonize at 27.3c

Tubs:
12.5 to 25 cm thickness substrate in 95L monotubs
For 95L 8 holes each 2cm in diameter will be cut, 4 of which will be 5 cm above the sub surface and facing each other and 4 will be 5cm below the lid (make sure the tub is completely isolated and sturdy which means made from quality plastic) cut holes near the bulk in front and the back and holes below the lid in the sides (or create a zigzag pattern for the holes), patch with tape until pinning
Clean the tub with a strong spray (whatever is used in dentistry to sterilize equipment in 3 to 5 minutes will work) and spread your garbage bag inside, mix the spawn and bulk in front of the flow hood or somewhere with still air and sprayed , after fumes are gone u can light a torch inside too, close the lid and colonize at 27.3c

Pinning: slowly reduce the temp over 3-5 days to 8-16 c then balance back to 22.3c and wait for fruits, 420nm leds can be used to provide pinning directions and the circulation from the holes must be opened(remove tape and fill the holes with polyfil, remember all other air exchange must be blocked to prevent humidity loss) just before balancing the temp to 22.3c (if pinned at 16C and slowly reduced to 8C, yields will suffer roughly ~75% as potency increases dramatically)
attaching a few 420nm 1 watt LEDs to each tub will improve the chances of a consistent pinset, RH must be maintained at 99% (monotub walls always semi wet) before and while pinning, after colors start to appear on all pins RH can be dropped down to 96%, not lower (performance loss)
12on12off light times and when fully colonized and ready to pin, if you come across low humidity try to isolate the tub better and spray some pre-boiled water but cooled in the fridge to increase the RH

Harvest: before veils are opened (not while and not after) is a great time to harvest, concerning aesthetics and potency, fruit bodies can be taken from base of the stem, rotate clockwise and counter clockwise and pluck with ease, taking them straight to the dryer

Drying: using heat to dry the mushrooms will be detrimental to their potency and looks, build a simple dryer with a sturdy and big cardboard box, design several floors with nets and attach the strongest fan you can buy into a hole cut specifically for the fan, poke a few holes on the other side of the cardboard, open and lay the fruit bodies after harvest and turn the fan on after closing the cardboard box, within 24h these should be cracker dry, its also important to seal them in vacuum bags straight from the drier to maintain potency and long storage

Dedicated to the mushroom and all of its patrons

Espurrr attached the following image(s):
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20190713_033411.jpg (4,537kb) downloaded 378 time(s).
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20190830_104217.jpg (3,120kb) downloaded 376 time(s).
20190904_101707.jpg (3,384kb) downloaded 378 time(s).
 

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Espurrr
#2 Posted : 9/8/2019 4:57:48 PM




Posts: 322
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Last visit: 17-Jan-2020
Location: Iran
bump
tek coming live
 
Brennendes Wasser
#3 Posted : 9/8/2019 9:30:00 PM

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Insane Shroomies Shocked Shocked Shocked The last Picture is a true Pinup Cube Laughing Laughing Laughing
Check the

BIG Analysis on DMT !

Lots of interesting and possibly new stuff unraveled ;o
 
Espurrr
#4 Posted : 9/9/2019 9:38:00 AM




Posts: 322
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 17-Jan-2020
Location: Iran
i've been working on this for 3 years now, this tek is sure to run quick, yield much, and surprise you in terms of potency!
more pictures and videos over time Thumbs up
 
Felnik
#5 Posted : 9/9/2019 5:58:02 PM

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Very scientific I like it
The only way of discovering the limits of the possible is to venture a little way past them into the impossible.
Arthur C. Clarke


http://vimeo.com/32001208
 
Espurrr
#6 Posted : 9/12/2019 3:51:50 PM




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Location: Iran
Felnik wrote:
Very scientific I like it

hi !
about that, im planning to send my agar medium, spawn, Liquid medium, prepared substrate and dry fruit sent for analysis, so when thats done i'll share the specs
what i think would make that significant is I've experimented to predict the most healthy, speedy, high yielding, potent approach to cultivating cubensis, and maybe from the analysis, we can come to a general consensus about the natural preferences of psilocybe cubensis
any other ideas are also appreciated
 
doubledog
#7 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:12:08 PM

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Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.
 
Espurrr
#8 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:27:58 PM




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Last visit: 17-Jan-2020
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination
 
doubledog
#9 Posted : 9/12/2019 5:49:40 PM

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I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)
 
Espurrr
#10 Posted : 9/12/2019 6:51:38 PM




Posts: 322
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 17-Jan-2020
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)

oh, i haven't had any issues either autoclaved , pasturized, or simply boiled vermiculite chunks drained and spread on the surface
 
doubledog
#11 Posted : 9/12/2019 9:32:18 PM

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Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.
 
Espurrr
#12 Posted : 9/13/2019 3:28:12 PM




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doubledog wrote:
Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.

makes sense, i wanted to remove coco coir from the tek before but thought maybe its better in a mix
when working with synthetics high grade coco coir seems to do a good job, however
 
Chaska
#13 Posted : 9/29/2019 6:27:14 PM

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amazing. with a new focus on cube cultivation im finding this inspiring. cant wait to see the rest of the pics
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#14 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:35:11 PM

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Superb! very accurate!

Couldn't of said better!

There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

But your mix is excellent and your results show in your perfectly formed mushrooms.

Loving it!

<3

I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
infinitynlove
#15 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:49:28 PM

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Espurrr wrote:
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination


Casings, if not done right, are often a source of contamination.

I have had several contams from casing layers when I first got started. Reading the posts of many the trusted cultivators on the shroomery I noticed that they often move away from casing layers, for this reason.

If the sub is really thick, 5" and above, and the humidity is kept above 90% rh, a casing layer often isn't required.

Casing layers are really useful if you have a thin sub, under 3", as they add a layer of moisture that prevents the sub from becoming to dry they also reduce the need for regular misting / spraying.

They are a requirement for pf cakes! the diff in yield can be 100% increase when using dunk and roll + top casing for pf cakes

late casing on bulk often works well, which is simply adding a casing layer once knots are visible.

<3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#16 Posted : 10/1/2019 3:00:28 AM




Posts: 322
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Last visit: 17-Jan-2020
Location: Iran
Quote:
There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

hi , yes maybe run off water from millets then added gypsum light malt extract (or even using molasess) , i'd check to see if my agars ph is at about 7 after making it although cubensis feeds in a wide range of ph in mediums but since we're trying to balance the grain and bulk sub on 7 then it'd be better if it always stays in that ph

what i did for mono0tubs this time is in the pictures below
so now i won't let any spawn remain near to the surface of the sub, to get thousands of pins consistently in the monotub
when tubs are 75% i move them to 17C for a day then 23C stable, it stops growing like before and some days later (very soon) you see these pins on the bed
so in my mind im far away from the perfect grow, but someday soon its gonna happen
so i've asked people max dried grams they got from a tub, the answers were mostly ranging between 200-300 g (70L monotub 12.5cm thick beds)
so far 1 time we did something that made this monotub make 300g dry in the first flush , the cake looked sort of destroyed
so when tossing it, there was so many thousand new pins on it and growing, so for whatever reason we tossed those, but some factors were off with that formulation specially in terms of ph and some nutes being way more concentrated than the others, anyway
im thinking if by some tek you can have a monotub that produces 500g dry in 2 flushes, destroying the cake completely, that'd be superb ?
keep getting reminded of somebody writing a paper about growing cubes in a jar in ancient egypt, if they knew whats going on in our apartments now ! Very happy
so anyway, here is cubensis with no casing layer , 7 days from spawn + 4 days in the monotub + 6 days in the fruiting room = 17 days to first pin
Espurrr attached the following image(s):
20190929_122721.jpg (3,608kb) downloaded 195 time(s).
20190929_122657.jpg (2,467kb) downloaded 196 time(s).
 
Chaska
#17 Posted : 10/17/2019 12:07:52 AM

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KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#18 Posted : 10/17/2019 2:24:52 PM

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Chaska wrote:
KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!


I read that 80f is enough for incubation / colonisation as they mycelium generates its own heat and adds approx 5-6f to incubation temp, with 86 f internal temp being ideal.

So an incubation temp of 80f = 85/86f internal cake / jar temp.

I hear higher temps are more suitable to mold, so higher temps = more chance of contams, and no one likes contams!

To end all doubts I should do a side by side where I incubate some mold at diff temps and incubate some shrooms at the same temps to find the optimum growth of mycelium vs mold growth.

80f has worked great for me so far, whatever works for you.... fruiting at 76f is ideal, but once fruiting you can raise the temp for faster shroom growth, but it makes weaker shrooms. ime slower shroom growth = stronger shrooms.

Oh and don't let them sit in the sun when growing, ime it reduces potency considerably.

Peace <3


I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#19 Posted : 10/19/2019 2:24:08 PM




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81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C
 
infinitynlove
#20 Posted : 10/21/2019 7:54:51 AM

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Espurrr wrote:
81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C


I would be interested to know more about genetic deterioration, I have noticed old spores and old mycelium show signs of senility, which is down to genetic deterioration over time, but I was not aware that this would happen with a slightly higher temp of 86f ?

Agreed Lower fruiting temps are a must for high potency and high density mushrooms.

Loving the tek and the shroom picks Smile

inf <3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
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