I've heard a few posts about people having trouble with the tops of their ball jars flaking off in the rubber sealant starting to corrode... One post suggested cutting circles out of a milk jug which is HDPE 2 and using those in place of the aluminum top ? Does anyone else have any info on this ?

In my first extraction I noticed the coating on the inside of the lid appeared to be at the beginnings of disintegration. So now I use a lid which has had the (two layers) of coating removed. I’ve never had an issue with the pink rubber seal.

Good luck!

Without the coating the lid seems to be turning colors and I'm assuming it's a reaction between the aluminum the lid is made of and the lye which makes hydrogen gas ?

I used HDPE inserts before but it was a pain in the bum.

Now I've changed to flagon bottles with corks. Sure the corks deteriorate and need replacing, but at least they aren't leeching plasticizers or aluminum into my spice.

I haven’t had issues with the lids changing color or corroding... something to watch out for I guess.

Yes i don't like ball or masons for that reason and because I've had them crack easily.

I'm partial to cider vessels/growlers; the glass is thicker and the top is a standard size that metal caps fofit.

Yes,I've found the rubber from ball lids floating in the base soup after a couple hours. It's definitely a thing. I think it's the lye + nps they don't like.

I dont even mess with mason jars anymore... too much fumes!... a big mess if knocked over..

I went to clear glass vinegar bottles.. with a small screw on caps with an acid resistant coating...

I use pipetts with it..


Or clear glass wine bottles with long narrow neck...

mason jars are not worth the trouble...

How do you find your coatings dealing with bases starway6?

Is this a European brand? I don't see gar here in the states in glass unless it's some kind of fancy balsamic or something.

Why would there be an acid resistant coating on glass?
And yes, same ??? as above regarding base?

But yeah those samereasons are who i use cider jugs. And the narrow neck that fits a glass baster.

I had that too when I accidentally used a jar with a rubberised lid seal for a backsalt.

Didn't trust the spice anymore... there's no way to journey on that, so i poured it away.

Yeah, I guess I should have made that part clear. I thought it would go without saying, but you're right,,,

Firstly and seriously, anyone should check compatibility charts. Something like this.

What lye are you using? NaOH, KOH? What nonpolar solvent? Naptha? Toluene? Anything else? What is your bottle made of?
Seriously, I would never use anything that I don't know what is made of or is B or worse in compatibility chart above.

The best option found? This or similar bottle.
A bit pricey, but this is very good investment. I have few of these bottles and they are perfect.

I didn't see any pricing on that page and don't want to go through the check out to find out. Do you know a ballpark figure for a 1/2 liter/plastic cap and with ground glass? Yes they look like the sh##.

Also Pete from hell, i guess I'm even dumber than i imagined, i thought lye was lye. The brand i but lists "100% pure lye" as its only ingredient. I just figured (assumed, whatever)that it was NaOH. What the heck is KOH? I think I've heard of it and I'm linking it in my head as a petroleum solvent.

In the case that you're including my post into your question, it's the "100% lye" drain opener (literally the brand name) and good old fashioned K-strip VM&P nappy. And balls can't handle that stiff combo, no table or chart needed.

Not that it's not a very worthwhile thing to check and a very useful resource to post on yer part, pete.

My chem supplier has it for about 60$ for 5l bottle, 11$ for 1l and 9$ for 0.5l. Just cap with the glass. They are not selling abroad though. Online prices are higher afaik. It is in EU.

KOH is potassium hydroxide. It is strong base similar to NaOH. It is often used for mescaline STB, as it is supposed to cause less emulsions. But can be used for dmt STB as well.

I know only lab-grade chemicals, don't have information about anything else.
Everyone can do the research and check his ingredients. But generally borosilicate glass with PTFE is safe for all our purposes and should cover all possible chemicals.

Ah, ok, thanks. With that info i can look for a local supplier. I'm really into the cash and carry thing when at all possible.

We are at opposite ends of the spectrum as far as lab processes go.
I'm more of the over-the-counter kitchen hobbyist. DMT extractions that i learned how to do directly from information and conversations here is my only chemistry experience, and I'd never been interested in it before i wanted to access spice. Finding out is was such an easy process did indeed introduce me to a new interest, and I've enjoyed learning about the process i do use, but it stops there.

My passions that i spend time energy and money on are of a different nature, some are somewhat fueled by the yields of the chemistry, i guess.

That said, I'm very interested and concerned with safety, quality and purity and finding good quality equipment is a priority concern.

Thanks for the info and the schoolingin KOH.

Oh, PS: I recently learned that Pyrex in the states is different than the same brand in the EU, with the European containing or being made solely of borosilicate, while the US does not. I think that a lot of the composition of glass products varies greatly across the line between the US and UK/EU. Bummer for me,it is the former that is the lower quality. One reason why i just use basically disposable cider jugs i pull from recycling bins. I'll often forgo the lid if i don't have one handy, but usually use a metal screw top with no insert.

Please bear in mind that it is important how strong your basic solution is and what temperatures are used, and for how long the materials are exposed.
The dangers are also much different for someone who is doing STB with strong basic soups, heating it for avoiding emulsions or increased yields and someone who just adds a bit of base to basify for successfull transport of freebase alkaloids to non-polar solvent while doing A/B.

If I had to chose between glass bottle with a bit of metal (chart) and plastic, I would chose the first.

I use this now

1000ml Volumetric Flask, Polypropylene, Class B, Screw Cap, Karter Scientific 229S4 (Single)

Why I like it is the Naphtha is easier to pull than a ball jar

As far as you are not heating the solution you should be ok with naphtha and PP (comp.chart)

Yes, this shape is very convenient

How do you find your coatings dealing with bases starway6?
The nearest we ever come to knowing truth is when we are witness to paradox.

The cap coating holds up pretty... good but can start to degrade.. [some]..if used a lot of times..



null24
#9
Posted : 8/9/2018 7:33:57 AM
QUOTE


Is this a European brand? I don't see gar here in the states in glass unless it's some kind of fancy balsamic or something.

Its american brand...Heinz

Why would there be an acid resistant coating on glass?
the coating is under the cap to resist light acids like vinegar...

I like this method the best. I have been looking into switching over to a separation funnel for pulling the Naphtha easier, has anyone done this sucsessfully?