I followed CYB salt tek:
1. 30 gr grinded MHRB was cooked in 120 ml water PH 3.3 for 1.5h at low heat
2. 17 gr salt was disolved in 80 ml water and added to the bark. The texture changed.
3. 30 gr soda caustic was disolved in 120 ml water and added to teh bark with 100 ml clear watedr more. Final PH was 13.3.Heated the solution for about and hour and let it sit for 16h.
4. 6 x 25ml low heated heptan pull used but proabably didn't let the heptan separate good because of color changed.(The last pull weited more and saw better separation. Each pull was about 30sec mooving and let searate x 3.Heptane was placed in evap dish and some white cristals was forming with strong smell(first pull completly evaporated befor I did the rest.)
5. Half of heptan was evaporated and placed the dish for 3h in -24 celsius.Remooved the nafta and dried the dish.Some brown crystals was formed and after scrap it was around 0.5 gr(didn't weighted)Some condesatiom ocured also and probably the cristal was wet.
About 40 ml warm heptan was used to disolve the dmt.Some of the cristal disoleved but a lot brown shit was still inside.I separated the two liquids after I decided that they can't mix(proably some basic soution sucked befor)I throw the brown shit and did a wash with small amount of sodium carbonate - 5 ml to the nafta 30-40 ml.Something like yellow oil formed in the middle of the two layers.I thout it was crashing dmt and reheated the solution.Nothing heppend and I keep the hetptane only and the yellow oil in the rubish.Did 2 more washes with 5 ml clear water and after two hours in the -24 celsius fridg nothing ofrming. What did I wrong with the re and should I use more heptane for the pulls.What about the heptane and mixrure temperature. I heat only the heptan becaue already a jar exploaded after heated both liquids. (no space was in the jar almost)what about the condensations, how to avoid them

Anyway, after slow evap 200 mg brown waxy dmt was obteined with some white cristals inside the dsih.The product don't have that flower smell witch I obtained after first pull.
The yellow oil showed between the two layers rest very waxy like oil,smoked a little be of it and it was dmt with caustic smell.

The above is not CYB's. It is a hybrid you came up with. I don't understand why though. The tek is designed in such a way that it already is a hybrid. Why hybridise it further? Why add acid cooks? Do you find them of utmost importance in a dmt extraction?

It is known that using heptane to pull requires a lot more stirring than when using naphtha. 30 seconds of stirring though will not be enough with either types of nps. If you would have carefully studied CYB's, with graph and all, you'd have known that it requires stirring 4 times for 5 minutes each, also lets liquids separate for 15 minutes before pulling the nps away from the aqueous solution. Return with a report after you've followed the tek to a T.

Meanwhile, please try and keep some continuity in your reports. Although many might understand what you are describing, it can become misleading at times:



Another aspect which I want to point out is that the nexus does not encourge using foul language, please have this in mind for future reference:

Agreed.

As I've said before, bionecrosis, the initial pulls are best carried out with a heavier naphtha. The relatively expensive heptane is best reserved for recrystallisations. I hope you've still got your basic soup as it's probably got more goodies in. (In an extraction, never throw anything away until you're absolutely certain you've finished!!)

I also hope that 'brown sh@t' (sorry, maybe I put that word into your head in your heptane thread) didn't contain too much of the DMT. What shade of brown would you say it was? Like the basic soup? Or more orange-coloured? It could be that your bark is somewhat oxidised. This would make pulling with heptane even more difficult as heptane's a terrible solvent for DMT-N-oxide.

Otherwise it seems your problems stem from bringing over basic aqueous liquid over with your heptane. Rather than putting this straight into the freeze-crystallisation dish, one should transfer these pulls via an intermediate jar of some kind to allow the dark liquid to separate. Patience, understanding and a methodical approach are key.

This should be about as tricky as baking a cake, I don't get why some people find it so difficult (other than if your bark has oxidised).

Well,
Thanks for the both replayes.I am agree at 101% that we should not use bad language because this is something like sentific forum not reddit,just didnt valor the sh..t like I should.
The brown think was somehow like basic soap completly separated from the heptane.Anyway I was adviced in my other thread to use heptan and it will be fine,yes I will put all the solvent in jar befor placing in the dish and probably will use DCM for pull.I still have 190 of hight quality brazilian inner rout bark bought not long time ago.What about the yellow oil formed at washing step?Ofc I will post soon the result of the pull ,I want to be part of the famliy.
Never mind my basic soap is gone and will do more again.Actualy DMT is very cheep ticket to the space so I dont worry.What about pulling with DCM and re with heptane?
I also have havier petrolium destilate kerosene should I use it?I dont think it will evaporate properly and already caused explosion coz of vapores.What is better idea to use both basic soap and solvent warm or only solvent,anyway I have little hole at the top of the jar so the vapores can go out

Sodium carbonate washes often just cause problems, it can steal a fair bit of DMT. Did you throw away the water portion? It would be worthwhile to bring up the PH to normal extraction levels and pull from it again, like a mini A/B, which I recommend over washes for dirty spice, much more reliable IME.

Well,
I discarded the water yes, and probably I used a lot sodium carbonate.It was like 20 mg for 5 ml water and 25 ml NPS.Why u say bring PH up again and pull?Sodium carbonate is already a strong base and probably the PH of water is over 13 or proabbly u mean do mini A/B other time when I do extraction.Do u have any idea what is th exact reason for sodium carboanate to be bad.And what do u think is better mini A/B or defating because mini A/B is something like defating.
Any way I did second re with 10 ml heptan with the 200 mg spice, almost nothing rest in the jar. Fast evaporated the 10ml and scraped around 180 mg yellow spice it is something like waxy.Not shure if scraped befor full evaporate because when I smoked a little from aluminium plate the taste was very bad and rest some burning sensation on my tongue.Some effect come just to remembeber me what was about the dmt.Didnt enter in his world bud I remember it yes.

The yellow oil is also mostly DMT!


Seriously, improve your method of administration!!

Ye an I agree I have new "meth"pipe but didnt want to put yellow dmt inside and wasnt preapared for full trip. Anyway it runs nice and again sorry for the typing mistakes, I am using the bad portatilq

what the heck's a portatilq?

Bionecrosis, i swear at times your posts made me laugh out loud, but at times it can become hard work to decipher your slang, man.

Anyway, for the sake of the nexus environment and workflow which i love so much, and for the fact i trust and believe in the great power of learning. Also respect to downwardsfromzero for contributing in spreading the good vibes.

Pay attention!

First of all you mentioned doing acid cooks:



You do not mention how many acid cooks though, and if you disposed of the bark after, and continued as a CYB tek. If you did dispose of it, know that one acid cook is never enough to migrate all the actives from the bark into solution. Usually people do 3 washes. If, on the other hand, you cooked the bark and continued with CYB's, disregard all the above since all the alkaloids should still be present in solution.

As downwardsfromzero, and the rest of us here always say, do not throw any extraction materials away until you are finished and satisfied with your end results!



At first, until you become more accustomed to these processes, leave yourself some "space to breathe". Use more solvent if needed. The tek you followed recommends using 50ml per pull. It does so for certain reasons. In 50ml you get enough space to suck some of it out without disturbing the bark solution. You don't need to strive to get the last bits of solvent out since you will do more pulls, and what is leftover will always get diluted by the next batches and so on. Trust me, nothing is lost apart from a tiny bit of nps... more so if you're doing 4 pulls per extraction, everything migrates out, even the last bit. You will most likely not have any "brown sith" in your extract, and you'll most likely not be needing any carbonate washes or cleanup steps apart from a simple re-x, ever! It has been said numerous times in plenty forum posts, the information is here... it won't look for you though! Also here, that which i've already said in my second post about stirring and letting separate has to be added.

Patience is key! You get out what you put in!



Stop reducing your solvent unless you've used large amounts of it. -24C is a very good freezer, there is no need for reducing nps, it only creates more loss of materials. Also 3h to freeze precipitate? That is hardly going to work, or i would not trust that everything crashes out in 3h, not even in post re-x freeze precip. Consider having around at least 8-12h+ patience, depending on situation!

In order to avoid condensation pre/post freeze precipitation, take the time (have patience...lol?) to slowly acclimatise the solvent to the new temp. conditions.
Example: pre freeze precip let solvent reach room temp, introduce dish in the fridge for some time at first, then move it to the freezer overnight/day or what have you.
After freeze precip: decant nps, refreeze until all nps has dripped out (dish upside down), move dish into the fridge until it reached fridge temp, take out to room temp and proceed to airdry.
This is also a good method for crystal growth, though i advise to approach it at a later development stage in your experience with extracting, if that would be the case even.



Always IMO use the same amount of water as solvent.Makes life much easier. Always try to work at room temp. Never warm solvent - cold water, as the differences in temperature between the two can mess up with the nps's proprieties and in worst cases some alkaloids could crash out. Of course that with freebase being non polar it will always remain cought between layers and could always be salvaged, but it's best to avoid situations like this from the start.

The right thing to do in your case would be to try and stick with learning the basics of extraction first, trying to not end up needing washes in the first place, as i've already said. I find it more logical and efficient anyway. Course you might think that it will render greater purity. It would in some cases, for sure, but if the first steps are carried out with greatest care to not contaminate pulls, using also freeze precip in the end, you might aswell skip the washes and mostly, mostly do a final re-x.
You want purity? Use less heat. Do teks cold. Do more pulls with fresh solvent etc. Plenty options. All these infos can be found in the forum threads.



Again you seem to like overcomplicating yourself. Forget about the DCM, seriously, last thing you need now is messing around with that. Save the heptane, source some naphtha!

Please understand that what you are trying to do is not some sort of play. Extractions which involve heavy bases, potentially hazardous solvents, and one of the most strongest hallucinogens known to man, are not something you can toy with!!

Don't get me wrong bionecrosis, i have nothing against you, but there are some things that raise red flags in your behaviour and need to be pointed out for harm reductions sake. Afterall the dmt-nexus is a harm reduction platform. And if you want to be a part, man, you need to comply. You've got some work to do!



This intrigues me the most until now.

Just because these plants are so readily available, and just because this community has invested a lot of time and effort to research and publicise this type of knowledge to the masses, it certainly does not mean that "DMT is very cheep ticket to space"!!
Somewhere in the middle i think you've got some respect issues, and that you don't even imagine what you're taking for granted. Please revise your attitude towards this entheogen, source, nature, everything... and give thanks, you are very lucky, remember that!



Forget about the kerosene, and maybe give it to someone who might need it or dispose of it in a non hazardous way for nature.
Read the tek, study the graph, watch the pictorial, step by step. It's all there in CYB's, follow it. Water bath is usually used to warmup the whole extraction vessel, all ingredients included. Think in terms of efficiency.



Mini a/b translates to backsalting not defatting. Practically it does leave behind (not remove) "fats". Theoretically defatting and backsalting are two very different things. Where defatting is done after the acid cooks, and before adding the base in solution. The latter, in your case, is unnecessary. It will only overcomplicate things and waste more precious materials.

Aluminum is a bad choice. Prolly many made the mistake of using it when nothing else was available, but please, this is not the case anymore. There are plenty, much better options available at your disposal. Pipes, bongs, the machine etc. Many usable things out there that do not involve the danger of leaking into your body. Also the bad taste and burning feeling on your tongue is likely happening because you are toasting it. Improve, yeah!

Doid I meade mesfly cloear ehgnou, bionecrosis?

Nereus,
I will not quote ur entire post but thanks for the detailed replay and spend time.
I want to say that I used CYBs hybrid ATB salt TEK.It says that bark should be soaked/cooked for 1h.After that bark is not discarded no filtrations used,just addad the salt and after that the base soulution.Probably my problem was that I used very low amount of solvent - less than 25 ml per pull.As other people sayed to me heptan is bad puller and should be warmed.In the tek it also says the solution should be warmed between the separations of the solvent.I sued only 30 sec shakes and this is the problem.Anyway I have 190 gr bark left and probably will do 40 gr extraction with heptan and after that go for bigger one of 150 gr or just will go for 150 gr and keep the 40 gr rest for ayahuasca.Nafta is not available here in Spain and I cant find it.I can find only lighting fluid in big supermarkeds that isnt suitable for extraction.I wont use heptante for pulls anymore I think because it seems to be bad puller and I prefer to use DCM and pull re with my heptane.I understand the what is the diference between backsalting and defating but backsalting do practicly defating also since the fats rest behind,thats why I asked u what do u prefer.Anyway can u explain me what is the reason for people to backsalt if the seolvent evaporate fast?
Anyway can u link the CYB basic tek I can only find the CYb mas ION salt TEK and CYbs 27% hybrid tek

There is a big difference between "soaked" (bath) and cooked. Cooking involves the actual simmer/boiling/brewing. Thanks for clarifying though.

Here's the thing. There have been countless reports on the nexus of people pulling with heptane with great success. In example people that in the past used Bestine brand to make their extraction. That solvent was 100% heptane. With a little bit of elbow grease and a bit more work put in, the results were as good as expected.

You already have everything you need. The only thing you need to do is make sure you mix the nps into the basic solution for long enough time, in such a way that it disperses well enough into the water, for it to pickup as much freebase as possible in 4 mixings of 5 minutes each, per every batch of 50ml of nps. Also to increase the solubility of freebase in heptane rest your extraction vessel (solvent included) in a warm water bath (50-60C should be enough)




Some heptane pulled pr0n for your enjoyment!

Never say heptane is bad for pulling spice. It's only different.. special maybe. Not bad at all.

Here's a link to Cyb's Hybrid ATB "Salt Tek"

Enjoy learning!

Nereous,
I am agree that better pulls are done with warmer soluition but I am afraid because already a little jar with 30gr extraction exploaded due the warm nafta and warm solution.Anyway I dont know what was the temp and probably this ocured because very little amount of air was inside the jar in 2 or 3 moovments the jar exploaded.

What i recommend doing in this case is never tighten up the screw caps on the extraction jars/bottles. Just give them a light turn so there is no evaporation happening.

Then another tip would be to stir in your solution using a ceramic, glass or stainless steel rod, avoiding shaking at all cost. Also avoiding picking up the extraction vessel which implicitly makes you tighten up the caps. By stirring in the solution with the help of a tool, gas pressure buildup should not be a problem, ever.

When warming up liquids in closed vessels, always make sure that there is some free headroom for the liquid to expand its volume while warming up. Liquids are generally incompressible and the difference in thermal expension of the vessel and of the liquid it contains has enough force to cause most vessels to burst. If you are lucky it is only the cap that gives in. This is elementary physics.

A "crack pipe" or "the machine" is probly a better cheap alternative.
I made a machine out of one of these till the elves stoll it
https://goo.gl/images/toKju4
https://goo.gl/images/nW8fgp

Also make sure glass is heet safe if learned the hard way on 3 accasions. And dont trust "Heat safe" Pyrex.

OK after those losed I finaly put my last 24 shattered bark in soda caoustic solution at PH of 13.6,not all disolved after a week.i think I will separeate the undisolved bark and do basic solution wash.Just want to get some of the spice.Does the soda caustic realy disolve all the bark if it is well powdered,am I losing weit from this bark?