got one doubt, I live in India and here nobody knows what naphtha means.
I tried every paintshop or home depot but they have got Turpentine oil and nothing else so i went to a local chemical shop and i asked them about petroleum ether and he said yes and showed me petroleum benzine and he said both are same things.
He had two products
one with boiling point 40-60 and another 70-90
so my question is:
are these two same things and if yes, which one should i get ?
Thanks alot Fellow scholars


Edit : I will ask them If I can find chloroform and also I will buy the higher boiling point>TY
Everyone , your knowledge is amazing!

Go for the petroleumether. The name might sound like it but there is no diethylether in it. Its just the name.

Both are basically the same. A mix of hydrocarbons. The only thing different is that the one with the higher boiling point has longer chains. (More hexane/heptane less pentane)

You can use both but the one with lower boiling point is better because it evaporates better out of the dmt product

Boiling point 40-60 is fine. 70-90 works, too. Plz don't mention buying MHRB, the mods don't like it: https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page

I'm so sorry, I am new and I really didn't have the time to read all the rules carefully but I will read now.
Thanks for reminding me sir.

Hey, no problem, looks to me like a minor offense (I'm no mod). Just edit the first sentence out, the comments are editable.

Hi aashay2009aashay, please sanitize your posting that started the thread, as Ufostrahlen already suggested. And read all the rules carefully before posting. It also helps to read the FAQ and some of the sticky threads in the subforums accesible to new members. Don't forget to browse the dmt-nexus wiki, too.

The goods that you can buy at a local chemical shop are fine. You are in fact so lucky to have a local chemical shop like that! Most people try to find useful materials in various general consumer stores simply because they have no access to a decent chemical store.

Personally, I'd use the higher boiling solvent, because it is able to pull more alkaloids per amount used. For recrystallizations, I'd prefer the lower boiling solvent, because it seems to be more selective.

PS: If you can get it at your local chemical store, consider buying chloroform for extractions. It is far more effective than petroleum destillates at extracting alkaloids. After extracting, you can distill off the chloroform (so you can reuse it) and redissolve the alkaloid residu in hot 40-60 petroleum ether. Freeze the petroleum ether to crystallize out the dmt.

Of course, you might need a decent separatory funnel to separate the chloroform from the basified mimosa tea, because chloroform is heavy and will sink below the tea. You also need some equipment to distill the chloroform off.

If you do not have these tools, using the petroleum distillates that you have found is perfectly fine if it gets you the results that you are looking for.

I echo what pitubo says, higher bp pet spirits for initial extraction, lower bp for recrystallisation.

Heavier distillates yet (120-130°C) - as used in my locality for lighting barbecues - also pull the alkaloids very well and freeze-precipitate well also. A recrystallisation with the low bp spirits is highly desirable in this instance.

So, good luck, aashay2009aashay, and welcome!

Thanks everyone, I will try everything out soon.
I will ask for help here if I get stuck as I'm sure I'll be helped.

Hi. Can I add a similar question please? I have a choice of Petroleum Ether products listed as follows - which one would be best for spice (mhrb) extraction and best for re-x (if different): 30-40°C, 30-60°C, 40-60°C, 60-80°C, 80-100°C, 100-120°C?
thnx

bro for crystallization, a solvent with higher boiling point is advised. Also for extraction, solvent with lower boiling point is better. But I use hexane for re crystallization which works way better and heptane is even better if you can get it ( I can't ). Also you should wash your spice with sodium carbonate after extracting to get rid of unwanted color.
Get 30-60 for extraction.
100-120 for recrystallization if you can't get hexane/heptane.
But keep in my mind that higher boiling point evaporates very slowly.
Good luck.
Ask any question if you have.

some info for everyone on this topic regarding my first extraction with PE (35-60)

a few nice advantages i found - it doesn't really stink like other solvents i've used (Heptane, Ronsonol). almost imperceptible odor (yet, always use a mask - always!!!). and, as previously stated, evaporates incredibly quickly - almost too quickly if you're not prepared!

i did find, however, that even slight warming of the solvent which has such a low boiling point resulted in difficulty separating from the base mixture. as the solution cooled (took it out of water bath) it separated nicely.

after pouring the collected pulls (6x) into the dish i put a fan on it to evap - it went ultra-cloudy instantly to my surprise (my Ronsonol almost never goes cloudy even when saturated). i let it sit under the fan a bit too long not really knowing it would evap at light speed! the dish was left with just a bit of solvent as it went in the freezer. oddly, it never really formed visible crystals, but a pretty thick layer of micro-crystals across the bottom. from the view in the freezer i thought it was just goo, but when it dried i could tell they were, indeed, tiny tiny crystals. this dish yielded 500mg from 50g bark.

from what i understand, not having enough solvent in the dish when going into deep-freeze prevents the molecules from doing their dance to form crystals. more solvent=larger crystals forming slowly, less solvent=smaller crystals quicker.

the next set of pulls i did NOT evap at all and the solvent did not go cloudy and all the pulls were done at room temp. within 4 hours crystals started forming and they grew to dime-sized within 12hrs. after 24 hrs i drained, evapped and scraped, yielding another 250mg. it looked like more, but these were the super-light fluffy white kind which are very airy.

last dish is in the freezer now - once again pulled at room temp, leaving in freezer for 3-4 days. crystals forming, some stuff on bottom of dish, i'm guessing about another 200mg or so.

this would equal about a %1.6 yield.

lab grade, low boiling point PE is a great solvent (for extraction/freeze) to use if you can get it. it has some unique characteristics, but once you get familiar with it it's pretty awesome. not having a strong oder is a huge plus.

i like

Thanks guys for the advice. I think I will try that as a solvent. I can get heptane too. But my main problem has been the 'naphtha' I have used (not called that but according to msds) just hasnt delivered anything. I get yellow oil no matter what. Anything coming out the freezer just turns to mush, even when decanted left upside down in there for days. Cannot seem to get that part right.

ducdevil - are you doing a/b or stb?

max ion tek
so then - A/B

OK, I'm trying that as well, so then PE 30-60 it is!

just remember - do not heat it up too much, obviously, it will boil. if your soup is that warm it can react as well. i do my acid/base warming at about 45c - after the salting and base is added (2hrs roughly) i turn the water bath down to about 30c and wait until it stabilizes. then i add the solvent.

also, don't turn your back or leave the room while evaporating....it will disappear!

good luck

If you heat it too much, your solvent gets plant oils and fats into the solvent and it makes it dirty, a re-x will clean it up but if it doesn't, wash it with sodium carbonate. It will be clean as milk. I've done it. If you have a lot of solvent then the crystals won't precipitate , the solvent must be saturated after the pulls to make good crystals. Get Heptane for re-x as it is supposed to be one of the best. PE 30-60 for extraction. Good luck!

Hey aashay. I'm from India too. SWIM is doing the first extraction now.SWIM is currently using petroleum ether 40-60 and the issue he is facing is that it's taking way too long to separate after mixing. He was using another light naptha (paint thinner)before this and it separated within a matter of 15 seconds and he also got a decent amount of orangish waxy DMT which he used to make changa and it worked, a tiny tiny hit was super strong when he combined it with an mao inhibitor. Anybody here could help? I'm thinking adding more lye and water with some heat should help?

Advait, a lot of your 40/60 pet ether is likely evaporating; your less volatile paint thinners would be advantageous in this respect as well. Save the pet ether for a recrystallisation if you're concerned about the purity of your paint thinners.