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Acacia Extraction Workspace Options
#141 Posted : 8/19/2016 1:20:54 PM

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Yeah limo is non polar, joshisoms Tek is very similar to BLAB. Freeze precip is quite safe and clean if you dry the extract thoroughly afterwards. To get the cleanest extract precipitate them slowly.
First in room temp then in fridge then in the freezer. Plenty of info around as to how to do it best.

Live plants. Sustainable, ethically sourced, native American owned.
#142 Posted : 8/20/2016 11:57:51 PM

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Thumbs up
WARNING: This Kendo character is a massive dreamer and all posts to be be taken as works of pure fiction
#143 Posted : 9/15/2016 5:11:32 AM

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#144 Posted : 10/2/2016 12:08:06 AM

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2 separate tests on a. floribunda in the new england area (heading in the direction of grafton) were done by a friend recently and both yielded an alkaloid psychoactive and "tryptamine-like" in effects.. but seemingly no DMT present (or if present in very small amounts)

.. bioassay of around 60-100mg (dont have scales) has yielded odd physical effects.. an initial "fast flickering kind of burning effect in the temple region of the head" which quickly wore off and transitioned into a mild "stoning effect" with a constant "hissing" percieved in my head.. a few experiences where I've taken a large doses consecutively have actually resulted in some very mild psychedelic effects .. mild trails.. and blue coloured pixels with the eyes closed too which was interesting as I remember nen mentioning that effect on a write up on nmt bioassay..

interesting extract.. floribunda so far in this area seems lacking in dmt.. but a good ally for meditation. I remember Seldom saying a while back that he thought the ones around here were a "red herring".. so maybe the ones in this area don't have dmt

much differen't extract to the ones I tested down in less urbanised areas of victoria which yielded a potent extract..
#145 Posted : 9/18/2017 8:28:01 AM

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Just wanted to encourage more research into acacia sophorae, absolutely loads of it around on the East coast of Australia, so much its classifies as a weed.
I'm not too sure what it's preference/tolerance for saline soils would mean..
#146 Posted : 7/18/2019 10:26:03 AM

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nen888 wrote:

this is presented in the interests of sustainability (because of the damage done to trees for their bark), and for those who are growing acacias and want them to live long and happy lives..

essentially, a few reported findings of low percentages of alkaloids in phyllodes in the past (by Mulga and others) and phyllode extraction failures are probably due to failure on Step 1 of this procedure

1. Thoroughly DRY the phyllodes, by sun. fan or oven. What will interfere with extraction is chlorophyll and volatile fatty acids.
2. Chop or grind by hand, blender etc.
3. Cover in mixture 50/50 distilled water and white vinegar, and boil vigorously for 30-40 minutes. Save liquid and repeat this another 2-3 times. Combine the 3-4 liquid fractions, filter judiciously, reduce volume by boiling till slightly thick, leave to sit overnight.
4. Very gradually add NaOH. The solution will first become cloudy, then dark again. Do not go far beyond this point. In other words, do not overbasify. The pH should be between 11-12.5 ideally, if a pH meter is available. Also add a small amount of fairly pure sodium chloride (salt). Allow to cool.
5. Add an equal volume of clean (100%) non-polar solvent (naptha, limonine etc) and shake vigorously for several minutes. Allow to settle into two layers, sometimes a few hours. If does not properly separate add small amounts of NaOH to break emulsion. Separate solvent and wash by adding salty water/NaOH. Separate again, and evaporate solvent. And then be very patient. A few days if necessary. Resulting solid, wax or oil is the crude alkaloids, usable.

and that’s all that’s required, it need not be any more complicated than this..do not substitute other acids or bases unless you are well experienced in extraction, and willing to experiment..just pay attention the whole time

if someone can’t follow this procedure, they should not be doing extractions..

Acacias can respond well to careful and sensitive pruning, so the gardner can enjoy their long grown trees, and their inner joy.

I cringe everytime I see one of those 'I found an acacia tree' posts or threads... I was glad to see this post, there's so many horror stories of rare and protected species of Acacias being basically stripped of bark and left to die. It reminded me of what happened to Buffalo in the US in the late 1800's. They are beautiful trees, can be overwintered in a sunny window if you are outside of their habitat, and don't mind pruning at all in my experience. I don't have much to add to this thread, but wanted to bump that post in particular as it is indeed a great stride towards sustainability. Madenii and accuminata are the two most discussed phyllode sources, but I've heard of several others as well... would be great to see a list of Acacia spp. with active phyllodes only. I've also seen burkittii mentioned in this context, don't know about simplex but they taste bitter and the stems are supposed to be one of the most potent of the genus.
I also read that maidenii are frost tolerant... a plague on whoever put that on the internet, I lost three of them one year to an early frost I thought they would survive LOL
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Chimp Z
#147 Posted : 8/6/2019 5:06:22 AM

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I took a look at 15 Acacia species' extracts and the only one that glowed in blacklight was A. Longifolia.
I wonder if that's just random or maybe indicating harmala alkaloids?
Chimp Z attached the following image(s):
acacia long 3.jpg (1,124kb) downloaded 279 time(s).
#148 Posted : 6/24/2021 10:38:03 AM

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Just came across this thread again and remembered how incredibly exciting it was to first read this several years ago. For that reason I thought I'd add my Invocacia method as it has proven to be very reliable over time and was designed for use with phyllodes and to be relatively easy to digest.

Also curious about the last method nen888 posted that called for 'vigorous boiling' as I've come to understand that excess heat in the acidic stage produces more oily results and your previous teks all called for 'simmering'.

The Invocacia Method by Flux

* 200g dried Acacia phyllodes and/or small (1-2mm) twigs are shredded to powder in a grinder and frozen overnight - thaw/freeze/thaw up to 3 times to ensure adequate lysing of cells.

* Thawed powder is bought to a gentle simmer/minimal bubbling boil for 1 hr and 30 minutes in 1.5 litres of acidic water @ pH 3.5 by dissolving 1 teaspoon of 100 percent ascorbic or citric acid powder into 1 litre of spring water - (in some cases more citric acid may be needed to counter the alkalinity of tannins in the plant matter).

* After the 1st boil, collect the liquid by straining contents of pot though fine fabric like muslin or cheesecloth (or even an old t-shirt, Chux cloth) into a second pot removing as much plant matter as possible and leaving it in the first pot.

* Repeat this simmering process 3-4 times, filtering the liquid each time and collecting this in the second pot until the second pot has the filtered results of all 3-4 boils. The plant matter can be discarded at this point.

* In this second pot, reduce down the results of these 3-4 collected boils until the resulting overall liquid volume (initially approx. 4.5-6 litres) is reduced down to about 1.5 litres.

* This resulting acacia tea is left to sit for 20 minutes to cool and then placed in a thick glass jar (2 to 2.5 litres is adequate) with tight sealable lid...taller is better. Leaving the acidic acacia tea for several hours or overnight however, will allow for fine particle sediment to drop to the bottom which can be filtered out when transferring vessel: this will reduce the potential for emulsions to form later).

* This is the stage where some may wish to add NaCl (Non-iodised Table Salt) to potentially reduce emulsions later. Dissolve 3-40g of Non-iodised table salt to 150ml of hot water and dissolve completely (some boiling maybe required to achieve this). When this solution has cooled, add it to the reduced acidic acacia tea.

* In a Pyrex measuring cup, take 100gm of Caustic Soda/Lye (98 % or higher Sodium Hydroxide) and slowly add to 200ml of spring water (one teaspoon at a time) stirring until fully dissolved. Do NOT breath the fumes or DO wear a protective mask. When fully dissolved, measure the pH with a digital pH meter (or pH strips) and it should read a pH of roughly 12.5 or higher. Pour this alkaline solution into the acacia tea in the thick glass jar, stirring with a wooden spoon or stick. The acacia tea will turn from brownish red to grey and then to black quite quickly (it can take a little more time with phyllodes of more fatty acacias). It is also a good idea to let the caustic solution cool completely before adding to acacia tea (this can take at least an hour or two).

* Once acacia tea is basified (made alkaline), check the overall pH of the tea as it may now be lower than 12.5 due to initial acidity of the acacia tea. If this is the case simply dissolve another 30g or so of Caustic Soda in 50ml of spring water and add until pH reaches 12.5. Wearing protective eyewear and gloves is a advised here as Caustic Soda is dangerous on the skin. It can be a good idea to now let the basified tea sit until completely cool.

* Measure 100-150ml (roughly 105 of overall volume) of Shellite in a Pyrex cup (NOT plastic) and add this to the now basified acacia tea and agitate the mix very gently for 5 minutes. Agitation can be done by closing the lid of the jar (using a black garbage bag liner under the lid as an extra seal) and turning the jar slowly end to end (in a rolling manner similar to bicycle pedals). BUT: initially, be sure to release pressure after every turn until no more pressure sounds (fizzing) are heard. For the first pull the solvent can also be stirred into the basified tea to avoid this pressure build up – and to ensure solvent and base solution do not emulsify together.

* After stirring or gently rocking basified tea and Shellite for 1-2 minutes, let the layers (Shellite and basified tea) separate fully and sit for 10-15 minutes. Repeat this process 4-5 times and after the last agitation, let the mix sit for a good 60 minutes before proceeding to next stage.

* Now the Shellite solvent layer will be sitting clearly on top of the basified phyllode tea and can be removed or ‘pulled’ using a glass turkey baster. The Shellite only results are then squirted gently onto a plate (TAKE GREAT CARE to only remove the clear solvent layer and to not get any black basified tea in the collection). If you notice any basified tea getting into the baster as you are drawing it up, simply pour into a shot glass allowing the solvent layer to re-separate leaving any residues of base you may have accidentally caught on the bottom. Let these small volumes settle and removing just the Shellite again from the shot glass with an eye-dropper.

* Once first pull of 150ml Shellite is collected on the plate leave, this to evaporate overnight in low light, dry area (fanning the plate can be used to speed this up). The last few millimetres of Shellite are hard to pull out so don’t worry about capturing this until the very last pull. When the Shellite is collected on the plate, you might observe that when you blow on it gently (or when the fan starts); milky white clouds will appear where air hits the DMT saturated Shellite - this is DMT being revealed in the solvent!

* After all the Shellite has evaporated off the plate and cannot be smelt (a clear DMT smell is likely present instead), using a flexible razor blade, scrape the remaining layer up and leave to dry further. Final results on the plate will yield either crystals, a sand-like product or a resinous honey like wax – or variation thereof.

* After collecting on the plate, add a new lot of 150ml Shellite to the basified acacia tea again and repeat the agitation/separation process. This can sometimes mean doing 5-6 phases of agitation and Shellite collection -until the no more results are can be scraped up from the plate after the Shellite is evaporated.

Safe & Scintillating travels - Flux
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