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Bufotenine Extraction Options
 
freethinker
#421 Posted : 4/30/2009 9:32:14 PM
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mapp wrote:
toss the limonene & keep the tar?

A homeless guy on the bus reading over my shoulder just said to do the opposite.

All posts by this author are blatant plagiarisms, fictitious inventions, and outright lies.
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Garulfo
#422 Posted : 4/30/2009 11:51:52 PM

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A friend of mine put some sticky black stuff extracted from yopo seed with misc solvents (MEK, limonene) in a jar.
Fresh limonene is poured in that jar.
That jar is placed in a saucepan with vegetable oil around it. The saucepan is heated, the oil do not boil but the limonene do (warning, dangerous, burning spills can be projected).
This is left boiling for at least 20 mn !

The limonene is poured in another jar. Still remain some very black solid, looking close to charcoal (not sticky at all).
I guess this black stuff is mainly imputities from the seeds.

Naphta is slowly added to the limonene (few ml) which precipitate again into some dark brown sticky thing (but quite solid), weighted 340 mg

Sticky solid is dissolved in 25 ml of MEK. Everything get dissolved ! The liquid is dark brown.
My friend think that less MEK could have done it but it's not easy to work with less liquid.
The same amount of naphta was added, jar was shaked. After a while, there was two distinct layers, most part was amber liquid, the bottom was more dense and very dark.
Top liquid was poured of and evaporated. A crystaline material remain and looks much better than the dark sticky stuff. It look likes brown gold, slightly shining, not sticky at all... but that makes only 80 mg.

My friend guess that less naphta can be used, so more usefull alkaloid would remain in the mix MEK+naphta.

What my friend find interresting is that naphta can be used to pull of the goodies from MEK or limonene.

However, my friend is also working on a completly different way to purify the dark stuff which requires very slow evaporation but which looks quite promising Smile !
 
Fuego
#423 Posted : 5/1/2009 5:44:48 AM

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swim got some crystally tan stuff from this one tek and swim let it sit out exposed to air and in a few hours it was black.

wtf. the black stuff was psychoactive, not visual, with a nice body high, and sleep forcefully following.

the black stuff was run through casa and sodium carbonate added. a small round dot smoked, followed by some of the original black stuff snorted, followed by 1 shot of liquer provided an extremely euphoric experience with slight visuals.

something happened to the tan powder that the air caused.
 
imPsimon
#424 Posted : 5/6/2009 8:21:11 PM

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69ron wrote:

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.


Hi! I have some quick questions

How pure is "nearly pure" using this tek? Will there be enough nasty stuff to make me nasious? color of end product?
Also, what would be a typical yield using this tek only?...if all goes well...

Thank you for your time =)
 
69ron
#425 Posted : 5/6/2009 9:45:15 PM

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imPsimon wrote:
69ron wrote:

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.


Hi! I have some quick questions

How pure is "nearly pure" using this tek? Will there be enough nasty stuff to make me nasious? color of end product?
Also, what would be a typical yield using this tek only?...if all goes well...

Thank you for your time =)


It depends on the seeds used. The nauseating stuff is an alkaloid. That tech isolates all the citrate alkaloids that are insoluble in acetone which includes bufotenine, and unfortunately that also includes the nasty head pressure and nausea causing alkaloid(s). You’ll need to do a xylene boil or something similar to get rid of the nasty alkaloids.
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All my posts are hypothetical and for educational/entertainment purposes, and are not an endorsement of said activities. SWIM (a fictional character based on other people) either obtained a license for said activity, did said activity where it is legal to do so, or as in most cases the activity is completely fictional.
 
imPsimon
#426 Posted : 5/6/2009 10:04:51 PM

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Ok, thanks=)
 
ohayoco
#427 Posted : 5/8/2009 10:46:00 PM
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69ron wrote:
Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.


Imagine someone did this, and then wanted to extract any 5-MEO afterwards, and the NN- too, why not. Or maybe it turned out he was sold the wrong seeds so got a poor bufo yield, and wanted to extract then 5-MEO and NN- that was still in the seed and lime mix. How would this person continue these stages of his extraction? Let's imagine he wants the 5-MEO first because he hasn't had any of that before.

Let's also imagine this person would at this point already be saying "Thank you, thank you, thank you!" for this tek!

Also, a supplier said there isn't such thing as food grade acetone, and that the best you can hope for is 'virgin' acetone- is this true?
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SpasticSpaz
#428 Posted : 5/9/2009 3:02:24 AM
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One could drop out any DMT in the acetone used to initially extract the seeds by adding FASA after first filtering out the Bufo. One would have to wait overnight, as it takes a while to convert the DMT citrate to DMT fumarate.

This might also work with 5-MeO-DMT, if 5-MeO-DMT citrate is acetone soluble and 5-MeO-DMT fumerate is not. I have no idea if that's true or not.

I wouldn't know if that would be worthwhile or not, though. It's rare for A. colubrina to have a worthwhile quantity of anything but Bufo.
 
imPsimon
#429 Posted : 5/10/2009 8:40:58 AM

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69ron wrote:
SWIM noticed that there is a way to get complete white crystals with this method. If you submerged a piece of cold metal into the boiling xylene and remove it, it’s covered with pure white bufotenine crystals. This happens because the metal is cold. When the melted bufotenine touches in the metal, it cools down below it’s melting point, is no longer soluble in the xylene, and so it sticks to the metal. It’s sort of like a “cold finger” effect used during sublimation.

Does anyone have any idea on how to better utilize this effect? Could one put a cold finger directly in the boiling xylene? Would that crack the cold finger?


Have you tried this some more?
Does it seem to be of any use?
Anyway, it sounds cool, gave me an idea...
If it's working or just sci-fi is for someone else to decide...I dont have any xylene=)
...maybe 4 plates is a little overkill but you get the concept.
imPsimon attached the following image(s):
Crystal Rod.JPG (2,554kb) downloaded 481 time(s).
 
soulfood
#430 Posted : 5/10/2009 9:52:05 AM

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Very nice idea. And querkily done too Pleased

That would definately work.

Would some of the solution soak into the rod though at such a high temperature?

Couldn't the rod be metal too?.. I suppose it does deflect the crystals onto the plates better though.

Nice one Smile
 
soulfood
#431 Posted : 5/10/2009 10:52:44 AM

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I need some clarifacation.

1. Heating the mix causes unwanted oils to evaporate and breaks down unwanted toxins.

2. Some have said that the black goop could be somewhat added to because of bufotenine N-oxide.

3. Heat accelerates oxidisation.

So although bufotenine has a high boiling point, could unecassary heating lead to oxidisation of the molecule in a way that's inconvenient in the long run?
 
imPsimon
#432 Posted : 5/10/2009 2:34:07 PM

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soulfood wrote:
Very nice idea. And querkily done too Pleased

That would definately work.

Would some of the solution soak into the rod though at such a high temperature?

Couldn't the rod be metal too?.. I suppose it does deflect the crystals onto the plates better though.

Nice one Smile


Yeah a metal rod would probably do better=)...to bad i can't try this myself=(

...Just thought of another idea=)
If one where to pour the solution directly into a
pree-freezed metal bowl, would that work?...maybe it would crack...
=)
 
ohayoco
#433 Posted : 5/13/2009 4:15:40 PM
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69ron wrote:
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.

Have you any idea what the optimal amount of time is for leaving the dry acetone in the mix for? SWIM thought 15 minutes and stirring, giving three pulls of 500ml, 200ml and 200ml. All three came out a dark 'urine' yellow orange (and he spilt 2/3 of it Sad ), so he figures he can still pull more. How much acetone does SWIY get through at this stage?

An aside- SWIM's citric acid dissolved immediately into the 100ml of dry acetone, for some reason.
Everything I write is fictional roleplay. Obviously! End tribal genocide: www.survival-international.org Quick petitions for meaningful change: www.avaaz.org/en/
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Garulfo
#434 Posted : 5/14/2009 2:20:52 AM

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SWIM wanted to post the following. It is not yet a tek but maybe something to explore further :

SWIM had this very dark brown almost solid (but not totally) extract from MEK. When bioassayed (smoked), that extract caused belly and head pressure.

SWIM dissolve 150 mg in 1 ml of MEK. Then he add 4 ml of naphta. The blend become very milky, some brown stuff crash out at the bottom of the tube. SWIM pour it in another tube (the brown stick to the first tube).
The liquid is still milky after a while.
SWIM add 4 ml of ammonia and shake the whole.Two layeres are now forming. The naphta is NO MORE MILKY and become quite clear (slightly pale yellow). The ammonia layer is a deeper yellow.
It seems that the ammonia 'wash' out the naphta. The naphta is removed, and the ammonia is evaporated.
A remaining yellow film is scrapped and become darker in a matter of hours. It is weighted at 60 mg. However it is much more solid than the initial dark caramel.

Once bioassayed, the ammonia extract was quite easy to smoke, and no heavy pressure was felt !!
 
Darkbb
#435 Posted : 6/19/2009 11:11:32 PM
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So are we close to seeing a pretty universal tek??? I'm just wondering.
 
soulfood
#436 Posted : 9/18/2009 12:29:03 AM

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Noman wrote:


Here’s a simple tech that anyone can do.

* Boil the powdered beans covered in plenty of water (made pH 3 with hydrochloric acid, or just use 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water). Filter out the beans. You might want to do this a few times to get all the alkaloids.
* Evaporate the water extract down to a syrupy consistency. You can use an oven at 175 F to evaporate your stuff if you like. It’s best to use a commercial food dehydrator for this.
* To your syrup add alcohol (91% isopropyl alcohol is great), enough to make it easy to poor. Mix it for a minute or so. Solids will forms.
* Filter out the solids that form and discard them.
* Evaporate your alcohol down to a syrupy consistency.
* To your thick syrup add calcium hydroxide (pickling lime for cooking), enough to make a paste. Mix it thoroughly. It should start to smell like ammonia. Let it sit for many hours. Once the ammonia smell is gone, the reaction is complete. Instead of aweful acidic bufotenine you now have the superior calcium bufotenate in your extract.



I always keep coming back to this tek wondering why it's not talked about more.

I'm mainly talking about the bit after you boil down the water to a syrupy consistancy and then add the ISO. Does anyone know what these solids are that fall out of the mix?

I'm thinking about doing this tek up to the part where you filter these solids out, then carry on to do the acetone pull/evap then do an mek:heptane purifacation.

Really though is there anything wrong with this tek besides use of calcium hydroxide which can be risky?
 
Garulfo
#437 Posted : 9/18/2009 2:40:38 AM

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The Graal here is to get crystals. I doubt this can be achived with such a 'simple' tek. It's quite easy to get some active stuff, but what all SWIMS (I guess) are hoping is to find a way to get active stuff with no or just minor side effects.
Beans contains some thing(s) that cause unpleasant side effects (nausea, headaches). How to get rid of it ? Getting 99% pure bufo seems one key but that's tricky.
So far I guess only Ron's SWIM get it and he used DCM to defat the beans.
 
soulfood
#438 Posted : 9/18/2009 11:58:07 AM

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Maybe. It's just interesed me that many who got smokeable results started with an acidic water extraction and those who started with acetone mainly got unsmokeable product.
 
Garulfo
#439 Posted : 9/18/2009 10:49:09 PM

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Quote:
who started with acetone mainly got unsmokeable product.


SWIM started freebasing then did acetone. The result was smokeable (but with strong body load). A xylene boil followed by a mix mek:naphta helped to get an extract producing a bit less side effects but still very dark.

The darkest part of the darkest extract SWIM get was easily dissolved in vinegar. Some hexane+heptane was poured into the liquid and the non-polar solvent remained absolutly clear. Whatever that black stuff is, what makes it dark is non soluble in heptane+hexane. That dark stuff is maybe some quite pure N-bufotenine... ?
 
soulfood
#440 Posted : 9/21/2009 4:08:29 PM

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I have a solution of highly impure cebil extract ph 4 with citric acid. I add sodium carbonate to raise to ph 11 and a white fluffly powder like substance starts crashing out.

What is it?
 
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