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highest yeilds shortest times :D Options
 
DjDMTizzle
#1 Posted : 6/27/2008 1:12:18 PM

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ok so i have researched many "teks"
but
which tek
By someone who has done a good couple of them
and experienced the yeilds
would say is the best tek
i mean as in shortest time
highest yield/amount
of spice you get Very happy
and if you have one could you explain the tek?
thanks mucha Very happy

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shoe
#2 Posted : 6/27/2008 3:45:39 PM

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looks to me like the conversion netting DMT N-Oxide with acid/base + Zinc Dust (or Ascorbic acid) works well for increasing yeild (fuck how long it takes btw, it takes however long you are willing to work at it. usually 2 - 4 hours and then sit back and evap.)

Also you will want to net the various grades too with a xylene extraction, from red to white and seperate into various grades; so you've got red thru to white.

White stuff is great and very clean but imho i've had stronger trips from orange/yellow; you get more for your money that way.

Im keen to try red, atleast once Smile
lol
shoe

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amor_fati
#3 Posted : 6/27/2008 4:54:42 PM

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Efficiency is what you're after--a good fail-safe logistical flow. Unfortunately, I don't have the data for mine yet, but it seems sound thus-far. Most of my time seems to go into pulverizing MHRB, and I always give acid extractions at least a day.

Small amounts of NPS with proper mixing methods will save you evap time. If you need to evap it's either because you didn't mix properly or there's too little left for that amount of NPS. Final extractions will take a hell of alot of stirring for only a slight amount of product, which is why I would recommend doing all final extractions in bulk. You will generally always have to evap on the final extractions, so if using a slightly larger-than-normal amount of NPS for this stage is what you have to do to justify disposing of material or setting it aside for DMT N-Oxide extraction or what have you, then so be it.

Emulsions seem to be a big cause for setback, though there are ways to chemically reduce emulsions, my method is to physically reduce them within my separatory funnel (a chianti bottle); this can be accomplished simply by disturbing them and radically changing the surface area on which they reside (emulsion structure seems to be largely reliant on the density of it's grouping). Some emulsions will simply take time, but usually it's not enough to justify waiting for me, so I pull NPS right off the top of it; which is incredibly efficient in a bottle neck.

I hope this helps.
 
acolon_5
#4 Posted : 7/24/2008 7:37:12 PM

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Heaps of table salt can reduce emulsions very quickly.
The Spice extends life
The Spice expands consciousness
The Spice is vital for space travel
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Never underestimate the power of STUFF!


I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention.

I don't know SWIM and personally don't trust him at all. If SWIM is posting, most likely I will not respond...as I said, I don't trust the guy. YOU I trust, but never SWIM.
 
WSaged
#5 Posted : 7/24/2008 8:09:04 PM

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Track down "Vovin's Tek" (& all other teks you can get yer mitts on) and give it a good read thru a few times!!
It is a very detailed A/B tek that not only explains what to do, but why each step is being done.
Also, forget about doing your first (or any) extraction quickly!!!
Unless your looking for a big fucking mess and possibly a lye burn!!!
Take your time!!!
Read a ton of teks before attempting one of them!!!
Take your time!!!

I follow "Vovin's" and it usually takes me 2 to 3 days, bark to crystals, ready to smoke.
Although not working constantly, there is about an hour of soak time for each acid soak, about 6 hours for reduction time, etc...
I always keep it small, only doing 100 to 150 grams of MHRB at a time (yield: around 1 to 1.5 grams at most) , I keep everything clean as possible and I freeze precipitate. Evaporation takes like a week and recrystallizing is usually necessary, because you collect a lot of dust and other crap as its evaping over a weeks time.
I end up with clear-to-white shards of crystal right out of the freezer!! No recrystallization necessary!!
But that of course took some practice!

WS
All posts are fictional short stories depicting the adventures of WSaged!! None of these events have actually happened and any resemblance to any real persons or incidents is totally coincidence!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
isambard
#6 Posted : 7/26/2008 12:12:39 AM

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You're getting a gram of DMT out of 100g of MHRB?? Equivalent to 10 grams per kilo?! What kind of bark are you using dude? I thought the consensus was 6.5 grams MAX out of the finest Mexican inner root bark, and three to 3.5 out of regular Brazilian?
 
MR.shroom
#7 Posted : 7/31/2008 2:34:46 PM

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isambard wrote:
You're getting a gram of DMT out of 100g of MHRB?? Equivalent to 10 grams per kilo?! What kind of bark are you using dude?


i had already the same experience , getting a "g" in 100/150 of MHRB, lucky i guess , or a really
concentrated root bark who knows
 
adrian89987
#8 Posted : 7/31/2008 3:06:01 PM
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It's not all that uncommon to get 1% yields if you are persistent enough.

And extremely extensive A/B extraction should get you everything you can out of your bark. Just need to relentlessly do your acid washes. Say about 4 or 5 acid washes if you want to be COMPLETELY completely sure all of the alks were turned to salts, though that many washes may be unneccesary. Do maybe 3 defats to be sure your product is pure. Then when it comes to the non-polar extraction, make sure to never stop pulling until you get absolutely nothing else out of it. I've found that often enough the DMT will just keep on coming out. If you are having trouble getting good yields with the non-polar washes, then doing a hotwater bath can help a LOT, and won't effect your purity if you defatted sufficiently enough.
 
WSaged
#9 Posted : 7/31/2008 8:10:05 PM

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Quote:
getting a "g" in 100/150 of MHRB, lucky i guess , or a really
concentrated root bark who knows


I don't know anything about luck, I just keep things extremely clean.
I keep it small, only like 100 to 150gm of bark at a time.
I take my time!
And I use a real lab equipment!!!!

I feel that using actual lab equipment, mainly the Buchner filter, helps more than any other factor.
I've tried 2 or 3 vendors, same results.
Whole bark & pre-powdered, same results.
couple of different teks, same results. (all A/B though!)

So now I just order the pre-powdered bark from the least expensive vendor I know and do the extraction in as "professional" a manner as one can do in their kitchen.

Trying to use a t-shirt or coffee filters to strain the acidic solution by plain dripping or even squeezing it, just can not get all of the liquid out and that last little bit of moisture, I would assume, holds quite a lot of liquefied DMT salts!!

A Buchner filter creates a vacuum that pulls all liquid out of a solution, leaving only the solids!!
When I'm done filtering the acidic liquid out of the bark solution with my Buchner, the bark is back to being totally dry!! Not just the outer layer either, completely dry, all the way through, and stuck together pretty hard! The bark ends up as a little, dry, round puck that has to be broken or cut up to get it back into the flask for the 2nd & 3rd soaks!!
If there is any liquid left in the bark after filtering, there is still DMT in it as well!!

I would say doing this, and never rushing any part of it, is where my bounty comes from!!
To tell the truth, I didn't realize I was getting any more than an average yield until a few folks on this board said something about it.

Quote:
It's not all that uncommon to get 1% yields if you are persistent enough.

And extremely extensive A/B extraction should get you everything you can out of your bark. Just need to relentlessly do your acid washes. Say about 4 or 5 acid washes if you want to be COMPLETELY completely sure all of the alks were turned to salts, though that many washes may be unneccesary. Do maybe 3 defats to be sure your product is pure. Then when it comes to the non-polar extraction, make sure to never stop pulling until you get absolutely nothing else out of it. I've found that often enough the DMT will just keep on coming out. If you are having trouble getting good yields with the non-polar washes, then doing a hotwater bath can help a LOT, and won't effect your purity if you defatted sufficiently enough.


None of that going on over here!!

In my experience doing all that was just a waste of time!!
I Just use a standard A/B extraction (basically "Vovin's" tek).

a.) 3 acid soaks (2pH) each filtered with the Buchner. Then combined & filtered again, left in the fridge over night to decant any silt that might be leftover and filtered once more in the morning.

b.) very slowly reduced in the oven to around 300 to 400ml (this takes up to 6 hours sometimes!)

c.) 3 defat's (with a real seperatory funnel!)

d.) Basify (14pH)

e.) 3 Naptha pulls (with a real seperatory funnel!) combining all the pulls when finished

f.) a sodium carbonate wash (1 with SC + Distilled water, 2 with just plain distilled water and with a real seperatory funnel!)

g.) Freeze precipitate at least 48 hours, sometimes up to a week.

h.) Filter the crystals out of the Naptha (with the Buchner filter!!)


Thats all!!!
On my first & second extractions, I tried all of the excessive pulling & evaping etc.. It was all a waste of time for me!!
I did get a tiny bit more DMT out of it but after a few recrystallizations to get it up to the same quality as my normal extractions, there was not even enough there for a full 50mg dose. That equals a waste of my time in my book!!!

I do this for me and my close friends only, so I want it to be as pure as I can get it in my kitchen and still be as easy and quick as it will allow!!!

Its always Quality over Quantity for me!!

WS
All posts are fictional short stories depicting the adventures of WSaged!! None of these events have actually happened and any resemblance to any real persons or incidents is totally coincidence!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
 
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