Salt was added according to the TEK.

I would NOT try pulling any white material that is NOT coming out with your naphtha. It could be bad bark. I once saw this problem where after initial pulls a white cloud formed at the bottom of the liquid. After a day or so this white cloud floated up to the top of the solution. It was pulled out manually and dissolved in nahptha. What was pulled weighed upwards of 2 grams! This, after having pulled nearly a gram of DMT. So, a wash was done on this stuff and absolutely NOTHING was left!! It is NOT DMT. Just my experience. Be careful messing with anything you are not sure is DMT. Good luck!

Hello fellow nexians and mentors

I have just done my first BLAB extraction on 500g of shredded MHRB and I only yielded 1.2g DMT-fumarate
I was quite lazy - or rather busy with other things - so the extraction took like a month, because I was several days from step to step.
So I was wondering if could answer me if some of the following statements could have been responsible for the low yield:

1. The MHRB vinegar soaked for 2 maybe 3 weeks. (too long maybe?)
2. After making the solution alkaline with NaOH, I waited a couple of days before pulling with limonene. (maybe after that amount of time the solution wasn't alkaline enough for the limonene pull all the dmt?)
3. The BLAB tek points out in point 6 fumarate conversion, that in some cases only small amounts precipitates because of low quality fumarates. I did never do the fumarate conversion, but I was wondering if this might be the reason I had a low yield anyhow. I made a PH test of my FASI and it is around 4..?

I have kept all the liquids so if there is something I can do to pull some more spice out of them, please let me know
The only thing I have discarded is the root bark.

Another thing is that the root bark had been frozen for months. I don't suppose this could have anything to do with this?

Thanks in advance

after adding NaOH did you check the Ph of the mhrb solution? u shouldnt have to but could be worth a check. i dont think being in acidic form for a while should be a problem. after all dmt is more stable in its salt form eg dmt fumarate. then you left it a few days after naoh, this shouldnt be a problem either as time is sometimes needed for the dmt in the mix to go from acetate to freebase.

did you only do 1 pull? if so do more pulls sometimes a few are needed to get all the goods.

i dont know if freezing rootbark is good or bad. but i would in future use powdered rather that shredded. as it has a larger surface area to work on. this could be affecting you yeild. if you cant get powdered mimosa buy shredded and blend it to a powdwer yourself. i bought a food blender that had an ice crushing attachement. works a treat for powdering shredded mimosa. shredded mimosa is cheaper where i am also

hope u work it out

peace

I made 4 or 5 pulls. But i did only stir gently from side to side as described in the tek. Maybe I was to gentle and didnt mix the liquids well enough?

I did not check the pH of the alkaline solution - I used 200-250g of NaOH, that should do the trick.
Besides I only have paper testers and I doubt I can see the color of the paper through the black liquid

magbe the vinegar soak wasnt able to pull all the dmt salts out of the shredded bark, hence its small surface area :/ if so, I guess that's what you get for being lazy and skip the blending process...

Hi again fellow nexians!

I've just ran in to another problem with a tek This time the Easy Caapi Vine Alkaloid Guide!

Yesterday I did the 4x30min acid cooks on 100g of shredded caapi vine. I used water acidified to a pH of 3 with vinegar.
After the acid cooks, it was late and I decided to finish it up today when I got home.
- Today I dissolved 9g of NaOH in 50ml water, mixed the two liquids and stored for 5 minutes.

It's now been 4 hours since, and there still hasn't precipitated anything. Also, the color of my brew is completely different to the color of the brew on the pictures in the tek. Mine was dark reddish color, with a little transparency. Not like the brown brew in the tek. And now it is completely black, with no sights of precipitation what so ever :/


It's kind of like the other issue I had with the BLAB tek right above.. Could it have anything to do with me waiting to the next day before finishing the job?? Or maybe something wrong with my vinegar or NaOH? the pH's reaches their goals so I'd think not? hmm..

The delay should not cause any issues. You could add more lye to see if it improves, but if the brew already turned black after basification, that seems wrong. It should turn lighter instead.

Did you consider that the vine might be bad? There have been more complaints about shredded vine that does not hold up to expectations. Have you tried holding a blacklight to a hot water extract of the vine (before basification)? If there is any amount of harmala alkaloids in it, it should glow blue-green under a blacklight.

Yeah i did have a suspiscion that it might be the vine that was bad. I did not know about the harmalas lights up in blacklight, thats cool! - I will use this in the future does dmt also light up in blacklight?

Thank you a lot for your reply!

No. It does fluoresce, but only in very hard (short wavelenght) ultraviolet light that is very dangerous and is not emitted by blacklights.

I need a bit of help. I was hoping after 3 years I'd be promoted and could post in the A/B section but I guess I just haven't posted enough.

Everything I say in this post is hypothetical and in no way represents real events.

100g MHRB was placed in 3000ml water with 300ml white vinegar and boiled for 3-4 hours until it reached ~1500ml total volume.

This was placed into a 2L glass jar and added 100g of mrs. wages pickling lime.

The mixture was stirred up then rotated thoroughly, no emulsion.

50ml of USED naphtha was added while hot and clear

this was rolled around, left to settle, and removed. Repeat x2 for 3 pulls total.

All 3 pulls combined into a second 2L jar and placed in the freezer for 1hr

Very foggy naphtha but no visible crystals.

Thinking did not basify enough with the 2L of water, attempted to add another ~50g of lime to the mixture.

There was a remaining volume of naphtha ~15ml on top of the mixture which became clumpy and bubbly with the addition of the lime. Perhaps lime should not be added "through" a NPS layer?

Some is still clear but much is hazy-white. There are now pockets of what looks like lime and an emulsion floating at the top of my mixture under some clear NPS.

Doing a hot-water bath now to try and break this emulsion. What am I doing wrong? Could my NPS be "faulty" after having sat for over a year since last being used?

Did the addition of lime to the NPS ruin everything?

Help please!

EDIT: I am now boiling the solution down to try and return it to a dry-tek state.
EDIT2: I probably screwed myself on boiling hard for 10 mins. Going to fan dry and attempt another pull.

Hello all
I have a basic quick question regarding preparing for a TEK.
When SWIM collects the leaves of Acacia Acuminata does SWIM have to dry the leaves and grind them into a powder or does swim just pick fresh leaves and mortar and pestle the green matter? Does it matter in the end? Or does it make the process harder?
THANK YOU Entities i hope i soon can join the astral plane.

I wanted to ask if anyone knows wether commercial butane or even the camping gas mix is safe to use. I dont know if the stuff with the nasty smell they add is inert in our application, but I know for sure it evaporates residueless (which is its purpose - one is supposed to be able to sniff it).

The background is I have been working with food grade CO2 that I have in excess, but sadly to work well it must by far exceed the pressure and temperature it would need to "just be liquid" by far, making it difficult to use. If Butane was safe (in terms of no residue) I could setup myself a new extractor that wouldnt have to be near bulletproof, it would only need to handle pressure of about 10 bar, I'd regulate pressure to 8 or 9ish. So I'm asking because lower pressure lenda itself to a larger extractor thats still easy to fabricate, disregarding its size. Note Butane is non polar and CO2s polarity is so weak, dont know what comes close.

Thanks in advance for any advise

Best dried but can be used fresh but it could make the extraction more problematic, best practice is to dry them and cut up into small pieces, can powder if you like but again could cause micro particles to enter the NPS.

Bubblecat, butane isnt considered a good solvent you need naptha if you can get butane you should be able to find a brand of naptha that works.

Thanks for your advice, of course I could use Naphtha, I did before. Could you please tell me why butane isnt considered a good one ? Supercritical CO2 worked awesome up to date and it comes with the piece of mind it is natural and has nothing in it I'm not aware of or that can cause trouble.

Now for me the following upsides of butane compared to supercrit CO2 are apparent: way less pressure involved -> lends to a simpler construction of a gas extraction container & no need for supercritical state -> no monitoring of temperature and adjusting pressure.
Possible downside: The stuff they put in that gives a characteristic and noticable odor, will it cause any trouble.

The solvents I usually get from home depots that could help in activities like ephedra extraction and such are on the decline lately, many are denaturated, blendet, replaced by some "safe alternative" and highly impure. So instead of cleaning up and seperating solvents I moved onto gas with most extractions. Same applies for A/B, gaseous hcl gives me peace in mind compared to the stuff they sell where no one knows if its just hcl + water or hcl, wter and something. Also it saves a whole step and getting everything balanced, just bubble until nothing is cloudy anymore

Well seems I will simply have to try butane and see if theres anything irritating with that.

Hi all, a home-made turkey baster was used for the naptha pull and a bit of the plastic has been dissolved by the naptha. Is it worth freeze precip or will the plastic ruin the pull?

The best is to process a mini A/B.

You can find the mini A/B steps at the end of this tek (check CLEAN UP STEPS).

Glass or stainless (baster, pipette) is much safer for pulling NPS.

Thanks a ton!

Hey guys, long time lurker here. Wondering if someone can help me with this heavy emulsion I have encountered during my extraction. The extraction method I was following is Kash's A/B extraction, with about 1.5ft of San Pedro.

I've tried adding more base, salt, warm bath, vibrations via washing machine but its been 2 days and it refuses to separate. I added about 250ml Xylene to the main bigger bottle but the 1mm layer on the top doesn't look even close to 250ml. I poured some of the solution off into the second bottle so I could add more NaOH + water, but it didn't really help much. Should I just suck up what I can off the top and chalk the rest stuck in there up as a lost cause? I've attached a couple pics so you guys can see what I'm dealing with. Hopefully someone can help!

separate the emulsion from the solution and gently heat up the emulsion with a hair dryer (careful, you don't want to crack your glass). warm baths suck.

Thanks for the quick reply. Just to confirm, I should apply the heat to the only the emulsion(which I'm assuming is the entire cloudy layer), or should I try get the NP layer heated too? Also should I keep the solution still while heating?
Sorry for so many questions, this emulsion has been so frustrating.
Edit: By 'separate the emulsion' did you mean decant the emulsion first, then start heating? Or keep the polar layer in there while heating?