hey folks,

SWIM is in the midst of his first extraction and is currently bassifying what appeared to be a beautiful dmt-acetate. during the bassification process, the q21q21 tek indicates to add small splashes of water to keep the substance easy to mix but not watery. at the moment, SWIM's substance is clumpy and dry but rather easy to mix. should he keep adding water until he get's a muddy texture or keep it dry/clumpy?

Thanks!


edit to add: it's pretty much the same texture of scrambled eggs but pretty dry...hundreds of little clumps and balls. should SWIM periodically add little bits of water to make it more of a muddy texture?

So after using the vinegar on the bark you added the lime right?

if so then just know that is is much better to have to little water than too much, gritty scrambled eggs, thick cookie dough come to mind when describing the texture.

Technically if mixed well enough it really couldn't be "too dry" there are dryteks after all, but just don't make it soupy or you'll have to add more bark/lime to absorb. Or wait a couple days for it to dry out.

Yep after acidifying with vinegar, SWIM added the lime. With the lime, the substance become super dry (even with water added) and he ended up with a bunch of "crumbs" or dry balls. SWIM ended up adding more water and it became a little thicker and muddier.

He stirred it for about 2 hours to make sure it was as freebased as possible. He noticed he needed a significant amount more naphtha than pre-measured (based your ratio recommendations in the tek).

So far it's going well with the first pull..already seeing "pools" of crystals forming in the naphtha.

Will try a second pull after letting the naphtha dissolved longer (the smells were extremely toxic and SWIM was getting worried about the neighbours smelling it so he kind of rushed this part of it).

Thanks!

Don't leave the naptha in for too long, it evaporates very quickly, there will be no loss in DMT, but you can lose a lot of naptha if the mix is left for a while.

SWIM recently did his tek and the naptha was crystal clear without a change from when it was added and once in the freezer turned into 428mg of white fluffy beauty (which was prompt destroyed)

Why is this? Is there a chemical reaction basis for this statement, or is it simply a convenience issue? (i.e. to make it easier to poor off the naptha w/o getting any bark in your precip dish)? It seems like SWIM gets better yields when it's just a little wetter. Not soupy, but more like mud than cookie dough. Perhaps the higher yields are not related to this, and just coincidence?

Peace,
-idt

the following statement is completely hypothetical, never happened

there is truth to what I said, though the drier it is, the more mixing will be needed. Lime is REALLY strong for freebasing acetates. I once tried to use concentrated HCl to re-convert a bit of limey bark and after adding 200ml of 36% (i think) HCl to the batch I gave up. This was just after I found out A/B freebased the alkaloids in hours instead of days like STB.

Lime is STRONG so really we are using way more than is needed, it just has an awesome property of keeping solids together, though you need lots to do that.

I'm really not sure what my original point was for that... (SWIM's still tripping a little from a test earlier, hes thinking more than he originally though)

Anyway gooey is the best best best, but crumbly is better than soupy, lets just say that.

Without creating a new thread I am posting another question (on behalf of SWIM, of course).

SWIM has now freeze precipitated two pulls over night. He is pretty happy with the crystals that are already forming on both pulls and will not be doing any more pulls because the smell of Naphtha is REALLY bothering him.

That said SWIM is wondering how to isolate the crystals without loosing many of the floater crystals remaining in the solvent?

He could easily pour off the majority of the solvent on both precip containers and just keep freezing the remaining stuff until content....however like I mentioned there are still small crystals that are floating around in the naphtha and haven't latched on to the walls of the container.

Is it acceptable to just pour off the naphtha and loose a few little crystals or is there a technique to salvage those?

Another thing SWIM noticed (and isn't too much of a concern...) is that in the first precip container there seem to be large "chunks" of crystal formed. He's not sure if that's ok...at the moment he has a few of these large clusters which are like gooey clumps and then the rest of the container is riddled with the typical small crystals. Please see the picture attached to see what I mean. Excuse the poor quality, SWIM used his cell phone camera.

it looks like most of that is ice, the tiny flakes that you see would be dmt, but those chunks look like frozen water droplets.

If you pour the naptha through a coffee filter to catch the small particles though

thanks! SWIM ended up evapping with a fan to help out and got rid of most of the moisture. ended up with approximately 70mg from two pulls using 50g MHRB. is that a decent yield at all? seems a bit low...probably could have spent more time doing more thorough pulls.

the problem is that the fumes from the Naphtha were extremely agitating for SWIM in his small apartment and so he rushed the last part a bit.

SWIM got ~285 mg from 30g, so it seems there could have been some errors, assuming the bark is good, try another pull with the mix as hot as you can get it with the bath (DO NOT HEAT NAPTHA DIRECTLY)

If there is no more yield then it may be the bark.

Yeah. I agree with q21 here. 70mg from 50g is really, really low. You should be getting at least close to 1% yield if you have decent bark. If your numbers are right, then try what q21 stated above. Probably just too cool of naptha.

If the bark is good, but old, then try q21's limonene post extraction tek. (I learned this all from q21's SWIM, and am not plagiarizing any of it as my own). But if you have good bark that just got old, and oxidized, then you prolly still have a LOT of goodies left in there. I limonene extraction to acetate will yield a TON more. I have a new post that I still need to write, but yeah, the limo pull was sooooooooo worth it!

peace!
-idt

HELP!

SWIM was trying to keep the basified sludge warm by suspending in a water bath (literally, a bath full of water) but it rolled over and the dry mixture was exposed to water. SWIM attempted to pour the majority off the top (it wasnt saturated) without losing any of the grey sludge. It was now the muddy side of dry and stiff.

SWIM decided it was ok to proceed and added the first lot of d-lim (200ml for 500g MHRB - SWIM used double quantity d-lim since 20ml per 100g MHRB didnt seem like a workable amount) however the solvent seemed to just disappear into the sludge. Another 200ml quantity of d-lim was added and left covered overnight. SWIM managed to drain off maybe 50ml of d-lim in the morning.

Now the sludge looks wet and falls away from the container when tipped. SWIM assumes this is not good and the product is unworkable. SWIM also has a very orange-smelling home.

Can anything be done to resurrect with this basified bark + solvent mix? PLEASE HELP!

this is strangely the second time this week someone is having their sludge absorb the solvent. i dont know where this is coming from ive never had that happen to me. the solvent shouldn't even mix with the goo it should stay separate.

try again but i would use much more than 200ml with 500g bark. if the tek is calling for 20ml per 50g that must be a mistake. thats a 1/2 of a shot glass! thats way to little. no wonder your not pouring any off, most of it evaperated in the hot goo.
i think you read it wrong it should be 200ml per 100g mhrb from my memory. this is my usual tek.

i hope it works out. it should be fine its all still in there. the dmt hasnt gone anywhere. relax, enjoy.

This sounds like the issue to me, it got wet so absorbed the solvent, id probably dry it out with more lime, wait til its def dry enough, then add solvent.

I've found with this tek the best way is to get it dry & break it all up with a fork into the smallest bits you can, then just roll the solvent (LOTS of it) through the mix rather than actually mixing it in, that way you don't lose much solvent at all, as your not mixing it into the mud, your just swishing it round to pick up the DMT, then next pull break all the stuff up again with a fork to get fresh surface area & repeat... each time i do this i get a dish full of crystals, im past 1.5% and counting... it just takes lots of pulls, i use Naphtha though.

Whenever i mixed the Naphtha into the mud i'd lose about 100ml of it, i will never do it again as its a total waste imo, if your mix is broken up enough & dry enough, you lose very little solvent by just swishing it around in the dry mix

thanks folks.

SWIM to add more lime and go again with lots more d-lim this time. SWIM hasnt worked with d-lim before but is very keen to be using a food grade solvent instead of naptha... even though the latter is infinitely easier to obtain.

As an aside for fellow UK people, SWIM got calcium hydroxide as hydrated lime from Jewsons builders merchants. Only comes in 25kg sacks mind, but still preferable over t'internet purchasing.

Nice find dude i'll bare that in mind...

SWIM had to leave 20kg in their yard... couldnt carry the rest!

Thanks for the advice - SWIM has brought the sludge back to a dry and stiff mixture with excess lime. Straight away a liquid began appearing in wells - not sure if its d-lim and water but i'll soon see once decanted to a jar. Mixture has been forked into a clumpy, clay-like material and another gulp of d-lim added. Will check back in 2hrs.

Q21 suggests it to be clay like but i like it even drier, i like it so its tiny little grainy pebbles, its only so i don't have to mix the solvent in by hand, as imo its just begging to lose solvent in the mix.

I think its okay or a must to be moist at first to spread the lime evenly, to get it to react with the mix, but then after i definitely like to dry it out as much as possible by adding more lime, then break it all up as fine as possible, just think the more your solvent touches the mix (surface area) the more DMT it can pull out of it, so i'd break up those lumps of clay like mix even further... as you do more & more pulls you'll learn how to get it the right consistency/how to lose minimal solvent in the mix.

Glad your using this tek though, with my recent yield i consider it unbeatable for simplicity & purity.

I tested a small amount - D-lim evaps VERY slowly but yes SWIM always have the mix covered.

Two pulls with 1L of limo done and FASI added. SWIM put a torch against the jar so the action could be observed - truly beautiful gazing at that cloud formation!

Going by the tek SWIM should be filtering out some fumarate crystals this time tomorrow. Will stay in touch.