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Another look at Psilocybe Cubensis cultivation Options
 
Espurrr
#1 Posted : 7/3/2019 2:08:41 AM




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Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
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Sporework:

-if you have a print, scrape some on the middle of your agar plates (i usually try 6 but you can do more or less with your respective situation) and wait for mycelium to grow, two types of fast and vigorous growth can be spotted as potential fruiters one is a rhizomorphic section and a tomentose section, try to isolate the best tissue on the growth away from the spore drop point to avoid isolating multiple strains

-After isolation on a new agar plate you should see if you isolated a singular tissue based on how it grows and should proceed to spawn both types of mycelium and fruit them in a small box, this is usually to speed up the process of reaching a tissue clone from fruit stem so first we make sure our mycelium fruits and second we don't waste time and resources

-Usually cloning the best fruit from clusters after pinning results in a uniform and strong mycelium, 5 times cloning from fruit is usually the time to take a new spore print just in case the mycelium starts mutating or degenerating, usually when you repeat the process of spore work and fruit tissue work a total of 5-6 cycles your mushrooms look and act significantly different compared to the starting spore batch, this is also the method used to domesticate (whatever that means) wild mushrooms, and mixing different spores on agar and moving on with the process can result in crossing stable genetics, so this concludes general sporework for the home grower

spore syringe:

using spore syringes are relatively simple, i would just use them to inoculate spawn jars and fruit them in a smaller box to sample tissue from the fruit stems on agar, but you can just continue taking spore prints from fruits and making more spore syringes and grow your mushrooms that way and it works

Agar:

-Simple agar:
30g light malt extract + 3g nutritional yeast extract + 0.5g gypsum + 2g activated carbon (optional but makes for easier contamination recognition) / 1L of reverse osmosis water (stable ph)

bring to a hard boil for 5 minutes and then let it cool (you can also create a premix for yourself after getting your agar mix to perfection)
Bring to a boil and slowly add 30g of agar/liter and stir until fully dissolved

stir and move the agar medium to autoclave glass bottles (has a plastic screwed lid) and sterilize for 30 minutes at 15psi or 45 minutes in a home pressure cooker (if using a jar you should poke a hole in and fill with polyfill so the agar doesn't boil out of the glass, open the de-pressure valve at a minimum and when the pressure inside your unit is the same as the room proceed to take the glasses out, fill 75% the volume of the glass MAX to prevent overflow)

wear latex gloves and a breathing mask and sterilize your hands with 75% isopropyl-ethanol to ensure sterility

Let the solution cool to 60 Celsius and pour into agar plates in front of the laminar flow hood or Still Air Box

use a scalpel and wipe it down with 75% isopropyl and flame sterilize it with a butane torch after the isopropyl evaporates and let it cool before using it to transfer tissue from another plate or ...

While transferring choose the healthy and rigorous sector of the mycelium and cover the dish with breathable parafilm or other suitable materials

Colonize in 23C-27C (possible up to 30c but that stresses the mycelium over time and makes for more contaminations etc) and store the plates upside down in the fridge at 8C stable

Tissue sampling:

-Take the apex fruit (which contains markers you desire) and in a sterile manner bring in the SAB or the hood, cut open with sterile blade (preferably use a tiny blade on a scalpel) and without damaging the tissue gently leave it on the agar dish and sterilize your scalpel again or have 2 ready at all times
taking tissue from different parts of the stem and cap produced different results, i'd like to isolate the most potent section of the mushroom which IME is just where the puff in base of the stem is ending)

-sectoring tissue from cloned agar plates is important, firstly if mycelium is growing puffy or dense , likely pH is not in the correct range, adding more agar (up to 30g/liter) can also improve mycelium integrity and health but is not a main factor of mycelial health
only sector the most healthy tissue from the plates and transfer for master cultures which will be used to expand more mycelium later

Liquid culture:

Lc jars need a 2 micron filter patch and a silicone syringe port (make sure not to dent or bend lids and make perfect holes and ) and magnet bars (~3cm)

0.5L jars seem to be a good standard

2g of organic date or... syrup ( + maybe 1g of nutritional yeast extract if you're going for thicker Lcs) / liter (reverse osmosis or ph neutral mineral water) , fill about 2/3rds of the jars with a magnetic bar included and autoclave for 25 minutes at 13psi (overt pressure will caramelize the carbs and yield unclear solution which makes it harder to spot contamination) and colonize at 23C-27C and stir on fast for until tissue shreds every 3 days, before 75% colonization use the lc or store in the fridge at 8c

Spawn:

-i use 2:1 grain:water, 1000g millets and or oats + 500g water + 5g gypsum (add a layer of vermiculite to the bottom to catch any extra water) autoclaved at 16psi for 3 hours (keep it simple stupid) however if you feel like youre working with old/contaminated grains, its good to soak them for 24 hours and change the water several times after the initial wash which should end up with clean water in your pot, and then dry them completely and use them

close the lid if you have a modified 2 micron filter patch lid (which is enough, but i personally drill a 1cm diameter hole in the middle of the lid and fill it with poly-fill)

Pressure cook in 15psi for 3hours And transfer while cooled to room temp in front of the hood or SAB

2 whole plates (8-12 cm diameter) / 3ml Liquid culture in 1L of spawn

Colonize at 23C-27C shake after 30% colonization

Every 1 liter spawn jar can be used in g2g for 2 x 1.5 liter spawn bags for a very fast colonization time

Bulk substrate:

10L cocopeat/coir(wash and rinse separately if dirty) or 10L dried manure from grass-fed animals + 10L large vermiculite + 2L straw + 1L worm castings or compost + 1L gypsum + 1L rice bran + 0.5L epsom salt (optional) +

and mix thoroughly with a clean mixer tool
hydrate with filtered water until 10-20 drops fall when squeezed (or google field capacity 75+%)

pasteurize your substrate in 80C for 16hours or so or pressure cook it for 20-30 minutes and let it cool slowly over +12hours before opening the pressure cooker

You should ideally use your sub right away


fruiting box:

-12.5 cm thickness substrate in 50L monotubs
6 holes each 4cm in diameter will be cut, 4 of which will be 5-10cm below the lid surface and facing each other and 2 will be 5-10cm above the sub surface (make sure the tub is completely isolated and sturdy which means made from quality plastic) cut holes near the bulk in front and the back and holes below the lid in the sides (all this is for circulation), fill the holes of the box with polyfill or tyvek

-Clean the tub with 75% isopropyl and spread your garbage bag inside and also wipe your bags with 75% isopropyl and let it dry, mix the spawn and bulk 1:3 and finish it with one more layer of substrate to make up a total of 12-13 CM thickness, in front of the flow hood or somewhere with still air
close the lid and colonize at 23C-27C

Pinning:

after about 10 days or where mycelium has fully colonized tubs, slowly reduce the temp to 20c then open the lid and fan the surface to cause evaporation at least once a day, you also need a good amount of white light to hit the surface at least a few hours a day

Try to maintain temps at 18C-22C which makes for quality fruits

If surface is drying and no small water droplets can be seen spray pre boiled water at the walls of the tub and maintain humidity very high

Harvest:

before veils are opened (not while and not after) is a great time to harvest, concerning aesthetics and potency, fruit bodies can be taken from base of the stem, rotate clockwise and counter clockwise and pluck with ease, cut the bottoms and take them straight to the dryer

Drying:

using heat to dry the mushrooms will be detrimental to their potency and looks, use a dryer without a heat element, within 24h these should be cracker dry, its also important to seal them in vacuum bags with some dehydrating bags straight from the drier to maintain potency and long storage, store in room temp rather than fridge or freezer away from light

For a simpler tek search for "broke boi tek"

Surprisingly or not this technique can be adapted to all sorts of mushrooms if you know their desired temperatures respectively and is sure to yield good results with reishi - lions mane - shittake - enoki - oysters - chestnut etc...
I guess cordycep cultivation is different

Dedicated to the mushroom and all of its patrons

Espurrr attached the following image(s):
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Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Espurrr
#2 Posted : 9/8/2019 4:57:48 PM




Posts: 347
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
 
Brennendes Wasser
#3 Posted : 9/8/2019 9:30:00 PM

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Chemical expert

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Insane Shroomies Shocked Shocked Shocked The last Picture is a true Pinup Cube Laughing Laughing Laughing
Check the

BIG Analysis on DMT !

Lots of interesting and possibly new stuff unraveled ;o
 
Espurrr
#4 Posted : 9/9/2019 9:38:00 AM




Posts: 347
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
i've been working on this for 3 years now, this tek is sure to run quick, yield much, and surprise you in terms of potency!
more pictures and videos over time Thumbs up
 
Felnik
#5 Posted : 9/9/2019 5:58:02 PM

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Very scientific I like it
The only way of discovering the limits of the possible is to venture a little way past them into the impossible.
Arthur C. Clarke


http://vimeo.com/32001208
 
Espurrr
#6 Posted : 9/12/2019 3:51:50 PM




Posts: 347
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
Felnik wrote:
Very scientific I like it

hi !
about that, im planning to send my agar medium, spawn, Liquid medium, prepared substrate and dry fruit sent for analysis, so when thats done i'll share the specs
what i think would make that significant is I've experimented to predict the most healthy, speedy, high yielding, potent approach to cultivating cubensis, and maybe from the analysis, we can come to a general consensus about the natural preferences of psilocybe cubensis
any other ideas are also appreciated
 
doubledog
#7 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:12:08 PM

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Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.
 
Espurrr
#8 Posted : 9/12/2019 4:27:58 PM




Posts: 347
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Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination
 
doubledog
#9 Posted : 9/12/2019 5:49:40 PM

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I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)
 
Espurrr
#10 Posted : 9/12/2019 6:51:38 PM




Posts: 347
Joined: 23-Aug-2015
Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
doubledog wrote:
I am refering to this section about casing layer
Espurrr wrote:

-Casing layer (optional)
50% vermiculite + 50% coco-coir
add enough water to make damp
autoclave for 6 0minutes at 121C inside a large spawn bag
add 0.5cm to 1cm casing layer while mono-tubs are mostly colonized and create riggid surface with sterile fork (better surface evaporation and air circulation = pins)

oh, i haven't had any issues either autoclaved , pasturized, or simply boiled vermiculite chunks drained and spread on the surface
 
doubledog
#11 Posted : 9/12/2019 9:32:18 PM

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Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.
 
Espurrr
#12 Posted : 9/13/2019 3:28:12 PM




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Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
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doubledog wrote:
Issues which I and my friends have encountered, were always from coco-coir.

However, your tek is definitely great, I have used almost the same approach with excellent results.

makes sense, i wanted to remove coco coir from the tek before but thought maybe its better in a mix
when working with synthetics high grade coco coir seems to do a good job, however
 
Chaska
#13 Posted : 9/29/2019 6:27:14 PM

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amazing. with a new focus on cube cultivation im finding this inspiring. cant wait to see the rest of the pics
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#14 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:35:11 PM

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Superb! very accurate!

Couldn't of said better!

There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

But your mix is excellent and your results show in your perfectly formed mushrooms.

Loving it!

<3

I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
infinitynlove
#15 Posted : 9/30/2019 6:49:28 PM

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Espurrr wrote:
doubledog wrote:
Isnt better to pasteurize casing layer? Instead of autoclaving?
I had big problems with contamination in casing layer when it was autoclaved, once I switched to pasteurization, these issues dissapeared.

Btw, It is quite cool to add some colouring to the agar, it increase aesthetics. I have used beetroot juice for this purpose.

hi , not sure if the thread is updated for you but
Quote:
pasteurize for 2 hours in 80c and let it drain in a clean environment until 1 or 2 drops fall when squeezed

the humic / fulvic acid i use gives the agar some color, good enough for sighting any contamination


Casings, if not done right, are often a source of contamination.

I have had several contams from casing layers when I first got started. Reading the posts of many the trusted cultivators on the shroomery I noticed that they often move away from casing layers, for this reason.

If the sub is really thick, 5" and above, and the humidity is kept above 90% rh, a casing layer often isn't required.

Casing layers are really useful if you have a thin sub, under 3", as they add a layer of moisture that prevents the sub from becoming to dry they also reduce the need for regular misting / spraying.

They are a requirement for pf cakes! the diff in yield can be 100% increase when using dunk and roll + top casing for pf cakes

late casing on bulk often works well, which is simply adding a casing layer once knots are visible.

<3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#16 Posted : 10/1/2019 3:00:28 AM




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Last visit: 12-Aug-2022
Location: Iran
Quote:
There is a tek that allows you to make your agar a lot easier, filter the waste water from boiling your rye grains and use that for your agar, You don't need to add any more nutrients.

hi , yes maybe run off water from millets then added gypsum light malt extract (or even using molasess) , i'd check to see if my agars ph is at about 7 after making it although cubensis feeds in a wide range of ph in mediums but since we're trying to balance the grain and bulk sub on 7 then it'd be better if it always stays in that ph

what i did for mono0tubs this time is in the pictures below
so now i won't let any spawn remain near to the surface of the sub, to get thousands of pins consistently in the monotub
when tubs are 75% i move them to 17C for a day then 23C stable, it stops growing like before and some days later (very soon) you see these pins on the bed
so in my mind im far away from the perfect grow, but someday soon its gonna happen
so i've asked people max dried grams they got from a tub, the answers were mostly ranging between 200-300 g (70L monotub 12.5cm thick beds)
so far 1 time we did something that made this monotub make 300g dry in the first flush , the cake looked sort of destroyed
so when tossing it, there was so many thousand new pins on it and growing, so for whatever reason we tossed those, but some factors were off with that formulation specially in terms of ph and some nutes being way more concentrated than the others, anyway
im thinking if by some tek you can have a monotub that produces 500g dry in 2 flushes, destroying the cake completely, that'd be superb ?
keep getting reminded of somebody writing a paper about growing cubes in a jar in ancient egypt, if they knew whats going on in our apartments now ! Very happy
so anyway, here is cubensis with no casing layer , 7 days from spawn + 4 days in the monotub + 6 days in the fruiting room = 17 days to first pin
Espurrr attached the following image(s):
20190929_122721.jpg (3,608kb) downloaded 528 time(s).
20190929_122657.jpg (2,467kb) downloaded 528 time(s).
 
Chaska
#17 Posted : 10/17/2019 12:07:52 AM

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KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!
grow plants, make tea, love life
 
infinitynlove
#18 Posted : 10/17/2019 2:24:52 PM

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Chaska wrote:
KEEP IT COMING FRENBig grin
exciting to see 86 f incubation temp being so succesful! and fruiting at 76!


I read that 80f is enough for incubation / colonisation as they mycelium generates its own heat and adds approx 5-6f to incubation temp, with 86 f internal temp being ideal.

So an incubation temp of 80f = 85/86f internal cake / jar temp.

I hear higher temps are more suitable to mold, so higher temps = more chance of contams, and no one likes contams!

To end all doubts I should do a side by side where I incubate some mold at diff temps and incubate some shrooms at the same temps to find the optimum growth of mycelium vs mold growth.

80f has worked great for me so far, whatever works for you.... fruiting at 76f is ideal, but once fruiting you can raise the temp for faster shroom growth, but it makes weaker shrooms. ime slower shroom growth = stronger shrooms.

Oh and don't let them sit in the sun when growing, ime it reduces potency considerably.

Peace <3


I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Espurrr
#19 Posted : 10/19/2019 2:24:08 PM




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81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C
 
infinitynlove
#20 Posted : 10/21/2019 7:54:51 AM

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Espurrr wrote:
81F is a good temp to inoculate, i work in a designated room for mushroom work so everything is clean and in 86F i have 1% or less contamination rates
you could argue that 86F will cause genetic deterioration, this may be true ( and i'll change the tek if i come to that conclusion or someone illuminates the information)
slower formation of pinset and fruit body growth (10 days instead of 5) is key ime, which is why i shock at 17C and keep at 23C


I would be interested to know more about genetic deterioration, I have noticed old spores and old mycelium show signs of senility, which is down to genetic deterioration over time, but I was not aware that this would happen with a slightly higher temp of 86f ?

Agreed Lower fruiting temps are a must for high potency and high density mushrooms.

Loving the tek and the shroom picks Smile

inf <3
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
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