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tseuq
#21 Posted : 8/9/2018 6:30:07 AM

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Simply_Me wrote:
Why the edit and the change to cold Nap in warm Solution?


The result of my first pull (warm N in warm S) wasn't that clean as I was looking for, but cold N in warm S did the job for me.

Happy extracting, tseuq
Everything's sooo peyote-ful..
 

with a seemingly autonomous entity after taking DMT?
 
Alev-Kev
#22 Posted : 8/11/2018 2:13:31 PM

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tseuq wrote:


The result of my first pull (warm N in warm S) wasn't that clean as I was looking for, but cold N in warm S did the job for me.

Happy extracting, tseuq[/quote]

Hey, Tseuq, glad to be of any inspiration here. Happy you had success, as well. Here is my "take" on the Temp. thing.... SO any fats will dissolve easier Warm or HOT. So, if you want the least amount of fatty, yellow gunk, then cool solvent in warm solution seems to be the better option. I've never done cold into cold just to test it, but the standing wisdom was the warmer the solvent, the more D would transfer across, BUT, it will definitely bring some fats with the heat. I dry it, chop it up and mix it back in UNLESS it looks "dirty" to me. Then, I re-x... Otherwise, I'm of the assumption that some beta carbolines come with those fats and I like the effect better than the pure white, white.

Love & Light
A-K
 
JefFlux
#23 Posted : 8/25/2018 5:59:21 AM

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Alev-Kev wrote:
JefFlux wrote:
Hi Alex-Kev,

First attempt at an STB (Cyb's hybrid salt tek) yielded exactly %3. Have been looking to see if it is possible to improve on this, as using 'max ion' bore no discernible increase.

As one more familiar with A-B on acacia, I have often wondered if the acidic heat bath stage of Cyb's teks could be improved by simmering the acidic bark-solution in a pot over an element on low heat (60 degrees Celsius) avoiding evaporation ..rather than the standard heat bath method?

Or even just 3 acidic boils and then discarding the bark as one would do for ACRB.

FLux


Hey, Flux
Thx for taking the time... I do, almost boil the whole time, simmering for reduction with water,and then white vinegar. I did strain a cal times, but I noticed that by removing/straining bark that my yields went down. When I leave it in, yields increase. So, I guess moving to the basing of the solution, some alkaloids are still trapped in the bar. I, also, go under the 1:1 ratio for lye, but I don't have a pH meter. The trial n error method produced a seeming 'sweet spot' for enough to keep emulsions to next to nothing, while releasing & binding all the D effectively. I should probably get a tester just for accuracy sake, but all $ has been put into good glass for my experiments, at this point. Thanks again for stopping thru...
A-K




I would definitely keep the bark, my rationale now that that one long simmer (even sub simmer at say 80 degrees) for a few hours would be more effective than 8 hour heat bath soak. I use citric acid as it has no discernible smell and takes one teaspoon per litre to get a pH of 2.5-3. A digital pH metre was the best thing I invested in for extractions in the early day and it made me realise how unreliable pH strips were! Also emulsions in my experience result from the solution not being aqueous enough combined with too much agitation.

And thanks for doing the warm Naptha vs Cold solution test as I've often wondered about this. Also on the subject of temperature, can anyone explain the rationale behind Cybs advocating of cycling the heat bath..i.e. arming then letting cool, then warming again the cooling again. I see many people just putting the solution oin a constant heat bath
 
Alev-Kev
#24 Posted : 11/30/2018 3:18:35 AM

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Bump, for some newbs
 
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