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Third Eye Tek (Marsofold/STB Hybrid) Options
 
3di
#1 Posted : 5/18/2009 8:36:28 AM
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The following was sent to me by a friend who lives on an uncharted island in the pacific ocean.

Quote:
Opening notes:
While I haven't been extracting DMT for the longest time, I have been extremely driven over the last 15ish extractions to devise a way to get pure DMT from MHRB with as little work and as quickly as possible, while still maintaining a high yield.

I started with Marsofold Tek. My problem was low yield. I would get 2-3.5 g of DMT from a lb. of bark. While I think some of the variance had to do with the quality of the bark, I think some of it also had to do with a) DMT remaining in the shredded bark after the acid extractions. and b) DMT remaining in the sludge that settled to the bottom of the acidic DMT solution after the acid extractions that was not poured into the jug for basification.

I tried Lazyman's tek. Despite the name, I found this to be MUCH harder than Marsofold. Following the tek to a T, each solvent extraction requires 30 MINUTES of stirring! After my arm went numb in the first extraction, I decided this was not the way to go. Additionally, Lazyman's author doesn't provide a good system for getting the layer of solvent off of the top of the basic solution once you get down to the last few millimeters. Since it calls for a pot or ceramic bowl, you can't look through the transparent side to make sure you're not going into the basic solution when sucking up the solvent, and because pots or ceramic bowls are much wider than wine-jugs, these last few millimeters that are tough to suck up can contain a LOT of solvent (wide surface area). Also, according to the tek, after a while, the shredded bark in the basic solution will decompose and you won't have any large particles left. This didn't happen to me. Even with copious amounts of NaOH and after a couple weeks, the shredded bark chunks in the solution were very much solid and chunky. This led me to believe there was still a good bit of spice left in them.

So I worked out a very simple way to get the best of both worlds. Following this tek, you can go from a half pound of powdered bark to putting a flat pyrex container in the freezer that after a couple days will drop out 1.2-1.7 g of DMT in 3 hours or less.

**********************************************************************************************************
Here's what you need:
-1/2 lb. powdered MHRB
-crockpot (I use high setting, and will get back with what temperature this reaches later)
-4 L glass Carlo Rossi wine jug (can be purchased for ~$16, and you get wine with it too Very happy)
-2 24 oz. wide-mouthed glass jars. I use tomato sauce jars because they're easy to get and come with tomato sauce in them which I'm rather fond of.
-around 150 g Sodium Hydroxide/lye/NaOH - I get it cheap from "The Lye Guy" google it. Lots of people seem to object to using NaOH but I've just been really careful and have had no problems. Whenever I get it on my hands I rinse with vinegar ASAP and then rub some Vitamin E skin cream into it and everything works out fine.
- ~600 mL of Naptha. I either use fresh or reuse naptha that was used for the FIRST pull from a Third Eye Tek extraction. After the first pull it can start to get yellow.
-White Vinegar
-A big stainless steel sink with 2 compartments, and something to plug the drain with.
-Pipette/turkey baster. I use a 6 mL pipette with a rubber bulb that I got at Rite Aid (A pharmacy/convenience store combo) for a couple bucks. The pipette is some kind of plastic but is not affected by naptha, or brief base exposure. Some plastics will crack and dissolve in naptha or other solvents so you may want to test this out.
-LARGE flat pyrex pan
-COLD freezer
-funnel
-paper towels or cloth you don't mind throwing out


ACID EXTRACTION (see closing notes for my reasoning behind this step):
-Mix a solution of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water. Pour 1.5 L of this into the crockpot, then add your half-pound MHRB powder. Put crockpot on High setting. Let sit for 2 hours-abouts, stirring occasionally (at least I did, although this may not be necessary). See my closing notes for my reasoning behind this step. Check out the Basification step for an idea of what to do while this is happening if you want to be as time-effective as possible.
-After 2 hours put your wine jug on a hard floor that you're not worried about getting stained, set your funnel in it, and hold the still-hot crockpot with potholders as you carefully pour it into the wine jug. (Optional: You can put a towel under the wine jug so if you do spill any the towel soaks it up. You could also use a mug to scoop it from the crockpot into the funnel which will make it take longer but you will spill less)
-There will be some sludge at the bottom of the crockpot still. Spoon this into the wide-mouth 24 oz. jar and add some hot water to it. Close the lid and shake vigorously. If it's not all mixed in the water, add a little bit more water to it. Once it's mixed, pour that into the funnel as well.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: between the acid extraction and basification you may want to cool down the MHRB/vinegar/water mixture in the wine jug by placing it in the freezer for half an hour. When you add the NaOH solution it will heat up and if it gets above 60 degrees Celsius, it could hurt your yields.

BASIFICATION:
-Plug up one compartment of your sink and pour a cup of vinegar into it. Perform the following steps in the sink. If you want to make efficient use of time, you could do the next two steps while your crockpot is going.
-Pour about 150 grams NaOH into the other 24 oz. tomato sauce jar. If you ordered from Lye Guy, this would be about 1/6 of one of his 32 oz. containers. I actually just pour it out directly from the container into the jar, which minimizes the exposure of things to the NaOH crystals (as in using a scoop). After you do this, pour some vinegar on a wad of paper towel, and wipe down the lip of the pasta jar and the NaOH container. Then close both of them and wipe them down again for good measure. Any spillage should just land in the vinegar puddle but if you spill a lot you might want to pour some more vinegar in there.
-Now SLOWLY add water to the jar, filling it up about 3/4. Close the jar tightly, and in the other sink compartment start running cold water. Hold the lid with a wad of paper towels (so in case any leaks out, it gets in the thick wad of paper towels), and give it a few shakes. It will heat up VERY quickly. Hold or place the jar so that cold water is running down the side and let it cool down a bit. Then shake it some more. Repeat this process until most of the NaOH has dissolved. Keep the paper towel wad over the lid, and twist it occasionally when you're not shaking it, being CAREFUL not to spill, to open it and let out pressure caused by heat or gas buildup.

-While the previous two steps were my own procedure, per recommendations of others I'm going to suggest filling up the 24 oz. jar a little over halfway with cold water then slowly adding 150 g NaOH
-By now you should have finished everything in the Acid Extraction step. Place the wine jug with the vinegar-bark in the vinegar puddle, open it, and set the cap aside.
-Carefully pour the NaOH solution from the pasta jar into the wine jug. I never use a funnel for this because I worry about the funnel getting degraded by the NaOH. Just be really careful and if you spill a bit, wipe the parts down with vinegar-paper towel after you get done pouring. I find this isn't hard though and haven't spilled any yet. Wipe down the lips of both containers with the vinegar-doused paper towel afterwards.
-Now fill the pasta jar about halfway with water. Tightly close the lid, and shake (still with the paper towel wad), running under cold water if necessary. This should dissolve any of the NaOH still at the bottom of the jar.
-Repeat the step from before, pouring this NaOH solution into the wine jug, wiping everything down with vinegar afterwards.
-Shake the wine jug for a few minutes (keep the wad of paper towels from before over the cap), flipping it from end to end vigorously to mix the NaOH and the MHRB-vinegar solutions. Let the wine jug sit for 5-10 minutes because I guess the basic solution would now be decomposing the bark particles, which will release more of the DMT for the next step.

The entire basification process should take no more than 20 minutes. Even though it seems like a lot, it is mostly just being careful with the NaOH.

NONPOLAR EXTRACTION:
-Add 200 mL of heated Naptha to the wine jug. You can heat the Naptha by putting your container with it in a sink filled with hot water, or a pot that has had water heated in it (although not while the heating element or flame is on!)
-Shake the wine jug VIGOUROUSLY, end over end. Shake it HARD and as much as possible. Since everything is hot and highly basic the emulsions will settle out in 5-10 minutes. I recommend shaking for 5 minutes, resting for a few minutes, then shaking again for 5 minutes.
-Once the emulsions have settled out, use the pipette to suck up the clear naptha solution and drop it into the pyrex. Be careful not to suck up any of the dark stuff under it. If you accidentally do, squirt it back into the wine jug and wait a few seconds before using the pipette again.
-Cover the pyrex with Saran Wrap and put it in your freezer on its coldest setting.

DRYING THE CRYSTALS:
-A few days later you can pull out your snowy Naptha solution, and SLOWLY pour it into a container through the funnel. The loose crystals will pretty much all hit the corner of the pyrex container as you are pouring it and group up there. I don't bother using a filter because I think a little bit gets lost in the filter. If this is your first pull, you can use this naptha again anyway and you'll get any crystals that might have made it out on the second freeze precipitation. Regardless you can always evaporate the naptha down and get any crystals out of it that way.
-Cover the pyrex container with wire mesh or a screen and set it under a fan for faster evaporation. Even without a fan it should be dry within 4-5 hours. With a fan it will be faster.
-Scrape up your 1.2-1.7 g of crystals with razor blades and enjoy Cool

Additional steps: You can repeat the nonpolar extraction step a few times. For every naptha extraction from a wine jug after the first one, there is a good chance the naptha will get yellowed from other plant oils, and this will make your crystals yellow. While the first naptha pull is usually pretty clean using this method, successive ones may be recrystalized to seperate the DMT from the DMT N-oxide. If you get ANY lye in your freeze precip pan, you should definitely recrystalize to get this out. For more info on that, I recommend this thread: http://www.dmt-nexus.me/....aspx?g=posts&t=1266

Closing notes:
I believe where this technique truly shines is the excellent-yielding initial pull with such little time invested. Whereas lazyman's tek requires a couple days of letting the basified bark sit to get a high-yielding pull (when considering amount of DMT in the weight of bark used by percentage), the acid extraction pulls the DMT out of the bark particles, so that the first pull is the largest. I may be wrong in this, but when I tried basically the same thing without the acid extraction, I didn't get quite the same yield. The wine jugs eliminate the need for repetitive stirring, and I feel like shaking and turning the wine jug is more effective than stirring anyway, because the naptha layer gets dispersed throughout the mixture this way, instead of trying to bring as much of the basic layer as possible in contact with the naptha layer on top by stirring. This is why you only need to shake the wine jug for 5-15 minutes (with breaks) instead of stirring nonstop for 30 minutes as in lazyman's tek.



 

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Phlux-
#2 Posted : 5/18/2009 8:43:13 AM

The Root

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hrmm - adding water directly to a pile of base - wiping down a lye container with vinegar - does this sound like a good idea to inexperienced extractors or was this tek aimes at ppl with a few extractions under their belt ?
antrocles wrote:
...purity of intent....purity of execution....purity of experience...

...unlike the "blind leading the blind". we are more akin to a group of blind-from-birth people who have all simultaneously been given the gift of sight but have no words or mental processing capabilites to work with this new "gift".

IT IS ONLY TO THE EXTENT THAT WE ARE WILLING TO EXPOSE OURSELVES OVER AND OVER AGAIN TO ANNIHILATION THAT WE DISCOVER THAT PART OF OURSELVES THAT IS INDESTRUCTIBLE.


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Quote:
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He who packs ur capsules - controls your destiny.

 
3di
#3 Posted : 5/18/2009 8:55:29 AM
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These are just my friend's suggestions for safely handling the NaOH he works with. Some of the other teks skip over these things, but things such as wiping down the outside of your container with vinegar to neutralize the base should be done no matter what. Some teks just say use gloves which my friend feels is dangerous because when you take the gloves off you still may have dissolved NaOH on the exterior of your mixing jars, and then you're even more likely to be exposed when you are unprepared to neutralize it immediately.
 
Jorkest
#4 Posted : 5/18/2009 3:54:52 PM

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yeah you may want to change the step about adding water to your lye...thats a good way to get lye in the eye..

always add lye to water..not the other way around...its very dangerous
it's a sound
 
3di
#5 Posted : 5/18/2009 4:35:47 PM
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Maybe that's true if you're using a scoop for the lye, but since my friend pours it, he felt if he poured the lye into the water that would actually be riskier.. He adds the water very slowly. He said nothing has splashed out of the jar so far. He also doesn't fill the jar all the way, so that might be part of the reason it doesn't splash out.
 
pyx
#6 Posted : 5/18/2009 4:47:53 PM
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soulfood
#7 Posted : 5/18/2009 4:58:28 PM

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Also it's easier to mix lye into water a little bit at a time. I can only imagine the annoyance of dumping water on lye only to spend unecessary time stirring.
 
3di
#8 Posted : 5/18/2009 5:13:52 PM
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Ok. I edited it.
 
tolu
#9 Posted : 5/19/2009 7:03:21 PM
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While it's good to see efforts like this, this tek doesn't stand out from any tek that already exists. (You got the same yield as what you did with marsofold's pretty much.)
It might of been simpler to say "Yield wasn't drastically affected by acidifying bark first in a STB.", but hey it's good that you are sharing what you're finding anyway.

This was slightly confusing too:
3di wrote:
Following this tek, you can go from a half pound of powdered bark to putting a flat pyrex container in the freezer that after a couple days will drop out 1.2-1.7 g of DMT in 3 hours or less.

At first glance I thought it said you could achieve 1.2-1.7g of DMT in 3 hours or less, which caught my attention since not many people post about the faster ways, but then I realized it said 3 hours after a couple of days. (Which I thought was quite strange)

My friend literally achieves ~2.2g of DMT in 3 hours using the same amount of bark you do, but with half the amount of tools and steps.
There's nothing special about his bark either.

My friend was also interested in the idea of acidifying the bark first in a STB but has never bothered to try it, but according to what you've wrote it doesn't actually effect it at all.
You said with 1lb of bark you got 2 to 3.5g using marsofold's, and using yours you got 1.2 to 1.7g from 1/2lb of bark, so equate yours to 1lb bark and you get 2.4 to 3.4g vs 2 to 3.5g, not significant enough in my opinion.
Thanks for the write up anyway Smile
 
3di
#10 Posted : 5/20/2009 12:32:03 AM
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Maybe my friend didn't clarify it, but he achieved 1.2-1.7 g from the FIRST PULL. From marsofold he would get an equivalent amount altogether (after all the pulls). With third eye tek, he has gotten over 2 grams per half pound of bark. This was the first time a tek has yielded over 1% for him, and usually the 1% mark will be broken within 2 pulls. He generally lets the jug sit after the first pull before successive pulls because the assumption is the first pull gets most of the free dmt that was extracted in the acidification process... so for successive pulls some time for the remaining dmt to break down from the mhrb particles in the basic solution is recommended.

Also, with marsofold tek, it is generally at least 8 hours from beginning of work to the first freeze precipitation (waiting for the sludge to settle out and whatnot, then waiting for emulsions to settle out, since the solution is cold by the time you do the nonpolar extraction)
 
3di
#11 Posted : 5/20/2009 12:48:31 AM
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The advantage of the initial acid extraction over the traditional STB methods is an enhanced first pull. I believe lazyman's tek states a comparatively low yield on the first pull, with larger yields following a waiting period for decomposition.
 
tolu
#12 Posted : 5/20/2009 10:51:38 PM
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3di wrote:
Maybe my friend didn't clarify it, but he achieved 1.2-1.7 g from the FIRST PULL. From marsofold he would get an equivalent amount altogether (after all the pulls).

Oh right I see, nice that is pretty good. Smile
My friend will be sure to acidify the bark first from now on.
He's been meaning to try it for a while, so thanks for doing the work and sharing.

Btw for STB you'd be better off referring to Noman's. Lazy man's is one of the worst.
 
Madcap
#13 Posted : 8/11/2009 10:11:15 PM

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SWIM's 1st extraction started at lazyman... It morphed into something else when SWIM saw how hard getting the naptha off was. SWIM had even practiced pouring slowly out of the bowl before getting started. SWIM did end up with spice, but his method needs work. SWIM is thinking marsofold for my next attempt.

Thank you for this info...SWIM enjoyed the read.

All posts written by Madcap should be regarded as fiction.
 
 
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