Yes, maybe it's a stupid question, but: I think that if someone wanted to try to extract DMT for the first time, the STB tek (especially the Lazyman'stek)is better, faster, simpler, easier (maybe with a recristallization with heptane). But: what do you mean here with naphta? In my language, the word naphta means the fuel for the diesel engines. But I read that in english, this word can mean a great range of hydrocarbons.
Second: in the lazyman's tek it's said to let it evaporate, but the naphta that I know is very slow evaporating, and on top of that, don't you think that it's not that good to have all these vapors, even if in the open air?

Naphtha is usually a mix of aliphatic hydrocarbons such as heptane hexane octane, etc.. There are heavier fractions which have high boiling point or lighter fractions with low boiling point. Working with lighter fractions is much better because pre-evaporating and drying your crystals is so much easier. These lighter fractions may be more flammable so be careful of course, no sparks, no fire nearby, etc.

If you have a heavy fraction, maybe consider salting out your dmt from it instead of evaporating (otherwise it might take ages, it will probably be unhealthy to breathe if you dont do it outside, may call attention of neighbours with smell, etc). Or using only a small amount from the beginning, freezing, and then later redissolving in acetone or ethanol or IPA and re-evaporating to help getting rid of the hydrocarbon traces

Sometimes naphtha has, appart from aliphatic hydrocarbons, also a small amount of aromatic ones, like xylene, and that screws up freeze precipitation because DMT is too soluble in these aromatics. Check the specific composition of the specific naphtha to know, either finding MSDS, or also contacting the company.

ehi thanx for your reply! so it 's just to ask a "light" naphta? is it possible? i didn 't know that it was possible to use ethanol for the re x..it is great, ethanol 92%proof is very very easy to find..

Well yeah, but I dont know where you are thinking of asking and what kind of attention it can bring... Read labels, email companies to ask.

As for ethanol, no not exactly to re-x. I just meant, after you have your DMT, you redissolve in ethanol and re-evap. This wont really clean up like a typical re-x since all impurities will be dissolved in the ethanol too, but it will spread the rest of the solvent that is trapped in your crystals and give it further chance to re-evap before dmt crystallizes again. Do note that DMT doesnt crystallize nicely like with naphtha when it evaps from ethanol, maybe more like a waxier formation. But at least in your case it helps getting rid of the heavy naphtha in your crystals, I guess its worth it. As for the 8% in your ethanol, what is it? If it's water, it will work to dissolve but it will take longer to evap/dry specially at the end when water remains. If its 8% plutonium or some denatured alcohol with some nasty non-volatile denaturant, dont use it

no no i mean the ethanol to prepare liquors. and I made a mistake, it 's 95%,and yes, i think the rest is water. you suggest me another solvent for extracting? or the naphta is the best?

Diethyl ether and pentane are both lovely. Diethyl ether has a very strong smell, though, which is why I tend to avoid it. Dichloromethane is another good non/low-polar solvent (the only one we really use in ochem) but its carcinogenic and should probably be avoided if you don't have access to a fume hood.

vinegar, it's all up to your preference. I personally like doing an A/B using limonene and salting with FASI. But i've worked with naphtha (and equivalent products such as pentane/hexane/heptane) and it works just fine

Diethyl ether is VERY flammable and it also dissolves other impurities appart from DMT, so be careful, and know that later you'll need to purify the DMT. DCM is indeed more toxic and reacts with DMT if DMT is left inside of it, so if you use it, be sure to retrieve your DMT by evaporating quick your solvent (also notice DCM layer goes below the water layer since its heavier than water, as opposed to naphtha etc which rises to the top). Also DCM pulls other impurities so you'll also want to purify it afterwards if you use.

Read the FAQ and the extraction overview linked there, as well as diferent extractions, and just do whichever way and usig whichever chemical you feel more comfortable with. Just be sure to understand each step youre doing and the characteristics of the solvents/chemicals so that you dont try to substitute things without realizing some things cant be used in the exact same way (for example calcium hydroxide can only be used in dry teks, limo/xylene/dcm/etc cant be freeze precipitated, etc)

Lastly, yeah 95% alcohol sounds fine for redissolving and re-evapping dmt to help get rid of naphtha traces, just be patient with the last part of drying.

Many thanks! And what do you think about the rectified hexane? Is it good?

well, i 've done some researches at the store, and I found:
some mixes like xylene and heavy naphtas, or hexane and heavy naphtas, and those are not too good, right?p
but i found also a cleaner for petrol lamps, and there 's written light petrol fractions, i think this should work well for the extraction, right? I found also some pure toluene, it 's an ipa i think (memories from organic chemestry :-D),is it good for xtraction or re-x?

Check this for more info before deciding to use a solvent:

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m....2Fchemical_OK_to_use.3F

Appart from that, anything containing xylene and toluene will make it impossible to freeze precipitate or use it as a re-x solvent, becuase those solvents are too broad-spectrum and unspecific, they also get other plant impurities and so on. It works to get an oilier first product which then you can purify if you want (with a pure naphtha re-x, or going the FASA way, etc), FAQ should have all the info necessary

and no toluene is not isopropanol...

Damned language, IPA in english is PAH, and that's what I meant. Tomorrow I will go in another shop, the problem is that often in these products the ingredients are not written properly, like in the cleaner for petrol lamps theat I've seen: Light petrol fractions... and no chemical name... bastards

Yeah, lighter fluid and paint thinners are outside the power of the FDA to force ingredients labels.

Not in the US so FDA doesn't really apply here.

If you can find bestine in a hobby store, or online, it works very good if you keep it warm when pulling. Also keep in mind it leaves non-n,n-dmt alkaoids behind, like the n-oxide and other active alkaoids, but more pulls later with another solvent can get the rest.