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First DMT Extraction Complications Options
 
kabal128
#1 Posted : 12/10/2011 11:25:39 PM

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First of all, hello to all you Nexians. I've been lurking for some time, but this is my first post.

Starting last night, my dog began attempting DMT extraction. She decided to do a modified tek posted by Dimitrius that she found hidden away in this thread. She also did the FASW option instead of vinegar. A few strange things happened during this tek that were unaccounted for. First, the suggested amount of fumaric acid did not AT ALL want to dissolve in the suggested amount of water. She had ended up pouring off ~225mL of D-Limonene from the MHRB, and so in a separate container prepared 75mL distilled water with 450mg fumaric acid. Perhaps the pup wasn't looking hard enough, but it didn't seem that much of the powder dissolved in the water. Does the fact that the water was probably a few degrees below room temperature have anything to do with this? Discouraged, but determined to continue, she decanted the water off the settled fumaric acid into a jar full of the D-Limonene. She then closed the jar and shook it violently, then waited a couple minutes for the phases to fully separate.

After decanting most of the D-Limonene off the top of the FASW (hopefully it's indeed FAS) and then painstakingly sucking the rest off the top with a 1mL pipette (woe is her), she poured the maybe-FASW into a very shallow dish and ran a space heater over the surface of it overnight. It's worth noting that not all of the D-Limonene could be removed, but my dog had hoped that given its ease of evaporation, it wouldn't be a problem. In the morning, she was met with a very thin, clear-colored, very sticky film across nearly the entire dish. She has found that it is hell itself to try to scrape this up. When she manages to get the blade underneath this hellish clear goo, it comes off in yellowish-white ribbons of stickiness that folds over itself. At times, shiny crystals that don't seem to be as sticky pop off the dish as well.

So, I have a few questions:

1. Was the lime and MHRB slop supposed to sit for a while before adding D-Limonene? After they were mixed together very well to the desired consistency, the D-Limonene was added about 15 minutes later.

2. Was waiting for 4 hours, shaking and spinning the jar aggressively about every 30 minutes, long enough for the D-Limonene to pick up alkaloids from the MHRB?

3. What happened to the FASW?

4. What's the best way to scrape up this abomination?

I thank anyone reading my drivel for their time. Very happy

P.S. My dog will be sending me a picture of what's been scraped up that I can post later, for anyone who may be able to tell what it is she's dealing with.
To reach inside a vault, whatever be the cost.
 

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endlessness
#2 Posted : 12/10/2011 11:37:54 PM

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Sounds like everything is going alright. In my experience, FASW often leaves some impure, hard to scrape goo. The best to scrape this kind of stuff is having a flat-bottomed pyrex kind of dish, and using one of these window-scrappers, which have a handle. This is perfectly active, though it has plenty if inactive plant impurities. You'll probably just need to adjust dosage if you want to use it, but it should work fine if you dont care about looks.

Another option is to actually use a bit of hot water to redissolve it and turn it into freebase like the fumarate water conversion in BLAB. You'll probably have a kinda impure tan freebase but you could always re-convert it to fumarates with FASA or FASI or FASW, which should further purify it, and reconvert to base again if desired.

 
kabal128
#3 Posted : 12/10/2011 11:59:07 PM

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Thanks for the quick response. A better scraper would help, for sure. Right now, all that's available are a double-sided razor blade (painful to use after a while) and a curved pocket knife (not very accurate and yields little). SWIM should really invest in a flat pyrex dish, as the current dish is a very slightly concaved (flat in the middle) glass serving platter. I'm relieved to hear her work was not in vain, though. Was the fumaric acid that much less insoluble due to the fact that my dog likes to keep it cool in the work area? A more important question might be, does it really matter how much one saturates the water with FA, as long as it IS saturated? Thanks again!
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endlessness
#4 Posted : 12/11/2011 12:15:23 AM

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You can warm the water up a bit but in any case water very poorly dissolves fumaric acid.. As long as its saturated it should be good, but in any case do a few pulls on limo with it to make sure it salted and got all the alkalids.
 
kabal128
#5 Posted : 12/11/2011 12:35:08 AM

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Will do! Thanks for the guidance! One more question for you, endlessness: that scraper you use...is it like one of those window sticker scrapers with a razor in it, or is it an ice scraper? My dog's whining about her aching paws with her current options. Razz Your help is much appreciated!
To reach inside a vault, whatever be the cost.
 
kabal128
#6 Posted : 12/11/2011 2:07:53 AM

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Okay, attached is the picture of what she's managed to scrape so far.
kabal128 attached the following image(s):
IMAG0288.jpg (771kb) downloaded 113 time(s).
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tobiusbeecher
#7 Posted : 12/23/2011 5:39:00 PM
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I've had a lot of results that look very similar to this picture. Powdered material that doesn't have any effects when smoked. When I do the pulls from the solution while at a ph of 9.5 it ends up with a lot of clear naphtha and some heavier stuff on the bottom that's more yellowish in color. Do I evaporate just the clear naphtha, the yellow gunk at the bottom, or both ??
 
Ovidroid
#8 Posted : 12/26/2011 5:08:35 AM

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I am right at the post-FASW evap stage in Jorkest's tek and I ended up with a very sticky like goo, as well. I was definitely expecting something more... crystalline... given the wording in the tek.

From what I am reading here, that sounds like it shouldn't be unexpected, and I tentatively feel better about my situation. Tentatively. I don't want to hijack the thread with my own questions but I do feel it is relevant:

If you end up with all that impossible and decidedly non-crystalline orangish DMT-Fumara-Tar, do you just take that as the weight against which you measure your sodium carbonate for the freebasing part at step 10 here: https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ic_Acid_Approach#Step_14 ? That is what I would instinctively do out of ignorance of a better course of action.

I've put something like 10 hours over the last two days getting to this point. If I screw it up now then I will probably cry a little.

 
Ovidroid
#9 Posted : 12/26/2011 5:10:20 AM

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Tobius, I could be wrong since I am not looking it up at the moment (you should do a search though and check), but doesn't the pH need to be more like 13 (or at least higher than 9.5? that seems a little low from my recollection)? What tek are you following?
 
Ovidroid
#10 Posted : 12/26/2011 5:15:10 AM

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W-w-w-w-whoa. I should've started scraping before describing what I've got. It doesn't seem gooey at all... it only LOOKS gooey.

It's actually sparkly orangish snow when scraped up. I did my best to decant ALL of the limonene, but I must've totally failed. Hope it's still DMT-fumarate and not arsenic or something.
 
kabal128
#11 Posted : 12/30/2011 12:46:22 AM

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Yeah Ovidroid, that's how my dog's looked once it fully dried. She then used amor_fati's freebase conversion, though kind of sloppily (and doesn't know how to recover product loss from a washing soda-filled salvage dish). It went well enough, she thinks. SWIM seems to think it worked well enough. Sadly, SWIM also has yet to break through with it, probably due to product impurity.
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endlessness
#12 Posted : 12/30/2011 1:20:07 AM

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tobiusbeecher, DMT fumarates shouldnt be smoked, dmt freebase should. Also yeah pH should be much higher than 9.5. 13+ sounds good for naphtha (which is anyways not what the fumarate talk here is about)

Ovidroid, you can bioassay that and/or try to further purify at least part of it. You could for example do a paste with sodium carb, do a couple of pulls with acetone/IPA, do FASA/FASI, which should already yield you a cleaner product.

kabal, you can salvage product from the dish by using warm acidic water to redissolve alkaloids and base/extract again. Or just use IPA/Acetone, warm better but room temp just fine, and proceed to FASA/FASI
 
 
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