I feel like everyones goal here is to get the most amount of alkaloid in the least amount of time and it seems people would rather have white/clear spice instead of yellow/red/brown.

It seems like this tek does just that. It seems quick, simple, and he said aside for his last pull his spice was white? Why do people mess around with anything else? Is this tek really as easy as stated?

I thought freeze precip was the way to go but now after reading this im having second thoughts.

Please throw me some opinions on this...

Thanks as always

In my experience, STB teks produce yellow spice. if you want, you can go ahead, evaping your spice. If it turns out to be of undesirable quality, you can redissolve and recrystallize using the freezer. I think, free preciption from the start is advisable and more eco friendly if you reuse your naptha.

i have been experimenting with lazymans tek for a week and got very minimal yields yet, im going to re-experiment with a less concentrated mimosa solution, same lye, less mimosa, cuz i think the solution I been working so far is too thick, even thou i added more water and lye at some point. I tried freeze precip and I think you need a large concentration of spice on your pulls for it to work, because if it aint, no matter if you evap it down and freeze, spice wont precipitate. im using hexane and heptane. Hexane is the only one that has gave me precips. also, i didnt got any precips till I made warm pulls. thats my experience till now. im hoping lighter mimosa solution will help NPS to solve more goodies as thick solution may not be helping on this. hope it helps.

I will preface this with a statement that I have not tried the Lazyman Tek (with STB I have only worked with Noman’s Tek).

I don’t know whether the fact that it advocates stirring the solution with the solvent and/or that it attracts people who are worried by the amount or difficulty of work to obtain product, but it seems that the Lazyman Tek produces more issues than any other (this may be bias on my part, but that is what it seems).

I think that thorough mixing (shaking/turning end-over-end) of the solution probably goes a long way toward getting a substantial amount of spice in contact with the non-polar solvent, and therefore higher-yielding pulls.

I done a small Lazyman extraction as way of an experiment on the remaining root bark gunk in crock pot (after acid cook), and I did get a relatively high amount of crystaline action but it was also very very dirty (admittedly with a very strong DMT smell, much stronger smelling than my actual clean(er) crystal end product). Knowing first hand however, the sort of crap that was contaminating/consisting of the 'changa' that I extracted, I wouldn't offer it to anyone that I actually liked in good faith. Perhaps if a Sodium Carbonate wash were to be added to the procedures of the Lazyman Tek, then the end product would be much more palatible, albeit with lower yields.

If 'the fuzz' ever do a thorough crackdown making it impossible to obtain the raw materials for DIY DMT extractions, then I would imagine that the Lazyman Tek would be the tek that the organised criminals use......until it all just becomes about the money and then really starts to go downhill as per every other popular blackmarket drug out there.

You must not be using the right potato masher.

It's an STB.
STB's are easier than pretty much anything else out there, but they're useless for large quantities unless you want to deal with ridiculous amounts of lye and they are prone to a dirtier product.
The lazyman tek is a poorly written STB - an attempt by the author to get something published when STB's were the new thing.
Anybody telling you that the bark doesn't need to be ground as fine as possible is full of it.

Can you go into a little more detail? What do you consider large quanties? Aside from the Mhrb being ground up, what else about the tek is poorly written.
I really wana stick with a stb tek but after reading so many they all do it slightly diffrent. Ill be doing my first extraction in the next couple days and just want to keep it simple and be successful.

If you want to keep things very simple.....

Then do the LazymanTek.....but forget the potatoe masher, just use a food blender to grind up all your MHRB to a fine powder.

Also, dont just slap the naphtha (non-polar solvent DMT containing solution) out onto a large flat dish, get yourself some Soda Crystals and give your Naphtha (which should contain freebase DMT by the time you are ready to evaporaate it) a Sodium Carbonate wash.

A sodium carbonate wash involves simply taking a pinch of soda crystals, adding to 50 ml water, and them vigorously mixing in with solvent. The polar (water + soda crystals) and the non polar (naphtha + freebase DMT) will very quickly seperate out, with much of the gunk that was in the solvent 'cleaned' out into the water/polar layer which you will then remove before repeating process with just water (no soda crystals) a couple more times.

So in summation, do the layzman Tek by all means, but.

Grind up root bark into fine powder.

Wash solvent before evaporating.

Thank you Bobbobson. Do most people not just order the prepowdered mhrb?
So do the SC wash then either freeze precep or evap? Wheres the best place to get Sodium carbonate?
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Peace all

At least in my country powdered bark is now considered illegal.

If you are sticking with the lazyman tek, then you will do an evaporation on the biggest flat glass dish u can find. If you opt for a freeze precipitation then make sure the glass container u use is big enough to easily get your hand into with nice flat surfaces as you will need to scrape away with razor to retreive the spice.

If you are going to do a Sodium Carbonate wash, it may be better to stick to evaporation. It is very hard to get rid of 100% of the water from the Sodium Carbonate wash and small drops of frozen water will stick to bottom and sides of the glass alongside any spice that has crashed out of the naphtha solution.

I am in UK and used the following as Sodium Carbonate:

On the MSDS for those Soda Crystals it says "Sodium Carbonate - Greater than 30%" so it seems like it's not pure sodium carbonate. Better if you just buy bicarb and convert it in an oven.

Much faster on the hob! Just pop it in a pan on a high heat, swirl it every so often and it will become fluffier. Check for conversion by checking pH or weighing it (it loses something like 30% weight if I remember right). Conversion takes about 15 or 20 minutes.

I don't know about lazymans but q21q21's tek is certainly really THAT EASY

Can sodium bicarbonate be found at the groccery store or ?
Its just baking soda right? So I bake it for 15-20 minutes at high heat and then its sodium carbonate and ready to use?

Interesting.

Do u reckon that I could have been washing out my spice with the non Sodium Carbonate ingredient 'Soda Crystals' stuff? Cos I got really low yields, like 0.1% if even that.....

....(lightbulb of despair goes on in head).....

Yup, just look for baking soda (not baking powder). High heat, watch and swirl lightly occasionally to make sure it all gets consistently heated. It will get fluffier. I wait for the fluffiness and then give it some more time just to make sure. Weigh or check pH to confirm conversion.

I snaged this from the shroomery and i had a great success only i think i doubled up the ingredience and used a 2 litre canning jar. i ended up with about a 2% yeild of very white spice (which from what ive read is almost unheard of) it beat the pants off all other teks ive tried....im not sure if the pics will show up or not.... http://www.shroomery.org...r/10089233/fpart/1/vc/1

AFOAF sent me these pics and instructions. Please follow precisely for success:

Take 1 qt. Ball jar, add 600cc's cool, DISTILLED water.

SLOWLY add 100 grams 100% NaOH while gently stirring in WELL VENTILATED area. Wear old clothes, eye protection, and maybe even gloves. Water will get quite warm to touch...go slow...stir often...stay upwind...and ALWAYS add powder to water, never, ever add water to powder.



When basified solution is made and clears, measure out 100 G highly pulverized MHRB and add to jar of basified water. Note: Although the scale shows 50.24 grams of NaOH, the FOAF measured this out twice for a total of 100 grams, per accompanying text. PLEASE NOTE: Many folks have attempted to perform this extraction using POWDERED BARK instead of SHREDDED BARK, and have encountered problems. Some have reported success with powdered bark by employing additional WATER. If you are just starting out acquiring materials, GET SHREDDED BARK. If you only have powdered bark, increase the volume of water by ~20%.




Place lid on jar and swirl to wet and "sink" all the powdered bark. Solution will turn a dark purple-black.
Congratulations, you just finished the hardest part, which should have taken all of 1/2 hour if you previously macerated your MHRB.



Notice how we still have plenty of room to add VM & P naphtha...LATER. For now, set aside the jar in a secret, undisturbed place at room temperature for minimum of 24 hours to allow the basified water to break down the cell walls and release spice into solution. Tick, tock, tick, tock...DING!

Ok...so, it has been 24 hrs since MHRB has been soaking in the basified water. Time to add exactly 150cc's VM & P naptha to the jar. Cap snugly and put aside in a WARM place, like a furnace room or atop some warm electronics. Get jar to about 80 - 85 degrees. Feel free to invert, roll, swirl and otherwise mix the layers together several times per day for one day...with this concentration NaOH no emulsion will form...unless you shake vigorously, which may result in an emulsion. Swirling alone works quite well.



After 24 hours, your naphtha will have a yellow cast. This is GOOD! Note: Perhaps I should have said "mandatory." A pale urine-yellow cast is indicative of migration of spice into the naphtha. You probably should NOT proceed to the freeze-precipitation step if your naphtha remains clear. It should look VERY MUCH like the two pictures below, before proceeding.



Use your turkey baster, and remove ~HALF the naphtha, or 75cc's and place it in your 1/2 pint jar. This will insure that you leave a nice layer of naphtha without soaking up ANY NaOH water. Don't worry one bit about the naphtha left behind...you'll see why in a moment.

Note how CLEAN the naphtha is. No amount of basified water contaminant should be tolerated. At this juncture you may optionally perform a sodium carbonate wash. The step by step pictorial for this can be found here: http://www.shroomery.org...umber/13962685#13962685



Cap the 1/2 pint jar and put it in the friggin coldest freezer you have. I use an old meat freezer we keep in the garage. Freezer should be cold enough to freeze ice cream solid. 24 hours later, you'll have crystals, like this on the bottom and sides of the jar.



Slowly, carefully pour the naphtha back into the basified water, leaving the crystals, which will stick to the glass, behind. Allow every pourable drop of naphtha to exit the jar and you won't have problems with crystals re-dissolving back into any minor residual naphtha as it warms. Don't worry about the "floatie" protocrystals in the cold naphtha solution you poured back...we'll get 'em all eventually.

Put the 1/2 pint jar aside to allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry. A nice dark, warm dry place where air is free to circulate is just fine. It'll look like this:



When completely dry, use a razor on a handle to gather your powder, and transfer to a sealable baggie or whatever.



The residue in the 1/2 pint jar will be re-dissolved in another 24 hours when you again remove 75 cc's of "recycled and recharged" naphtha from the basified water. So...basically you will repeat and repeat and repeat the removal of naphtha with the baster, freezing, etc. several times, until the yield really drops. Please note that subsequent extractions will yield increasingly yellow product, in ever decreasing amounts. This is normal. I've taken to combining all powder. You, of course, may do as you see fit.

As a final step, you can remove as much of the naphtha as possible w/o getting NaOH, evap down and get the last drop of spice.

For those wishing to (or needing to) further purify their product, you may (again optionally) perform a recrystallization using heptane (Bestine). A step by step pictorial for this simple procedure is HERE: http://www.shroomery.org...umber/11726174#11726174

One you have the powder, I take it as a given that you know what to do with it!!!!