Something i like to do when salting out dmt with an acid that won't evap off (citric, fumaric, etc) is to weigh the Acid before hand, salt 3x and know how much acid was in that volume of water, then evap the lot.
Weigh your end product, after washing with iso or acetone if you want, and subtract how much fumaric acid you added from the final weight. If its around %20-25 (this is only for fumaric acid, citrate and others will be a different %) of the total weight, then you can assume its reasonably pure.
If its over %20-25 by weight the amount of fumaric acid you used to salt, its either impurities, or excess acid. Both of which can be removed by dry acetone or iso washes. You can then redissolve it in a minimal amount of distilled water, evaporate it, scrap up and harden/crystalize the translucent goo, powder it and re-wash. Do that 3x, and it won't be getting any cleaner.
Put simply, dmt in solvent + known weight of fumaric acid + distilled water (no residue/extra weight) = x amount of fumaric acid + dmt and impurities. Pure dmt fumarate should be around %25 fumaric acid, and %75 dmt roughly. Do some math, and it should be a reasonably accurate way to judge the purity of fasw dmt fumarate.
IE, 200mg of fumaric acid was used to salt, and 850mg of off white dmt fumarate was the end product after washing. Its safe to assume its fairly pure.
As well, when evapping, dmt fumarate will take a long time to crystallize, and fumaric acid will crash out sooner. If your evap dish is showing crystals before it turns into a viscous concentrated dmt-fumarate solution its extra fumaric acid crystals and not dmt-fumarare. Dmt fumarate ime drys to a clearish thick goo, and upon scraping/spreading will fully harden/crystalize fairly quick, and will be dry after only a few mins of scraping.
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