Hi,
It sort of is, but if you were to do it like that then you would have an a/b - a stb is, in essence, only an a/b without the a.
i have seen some links about a stb defat though, cant remeber what they used (i will try to find them though), it was something like soak it in naptha, no water then pull the naptha, discard. repeat and then stb. but this used tons and tons of naptha. people use mhrb so they dont need to defat. try to avoid picking them up
a little yellowness is to be expected, but mhrb doesnt need defatting if the stb is done well, and its not that hard to do it well
a stb imho shouldnt take ages. but then its a yield v effort thing and im quite lazy. recrysalising should fix most of the problems anyway.
here is a something to try that might help eliminate oils before they become a problem.
This is all hypothetical and i have written it in a first person style so it will illustrate my point more clearly. Obviously the I in this is not me.
I am assuming you already know all the safety stuff. and dont do this in a country where it is illegal. also its probably not a good idea to do something that someone from the internet told you to or how to do. good luck though and be safe
i have found that the trick with a stb is to not give it time to pick up the minimal oils and fats in mhrb. this is a slight difficult technique to perfect and might take a few goes before you get it right. dont throw anything away before you have all the stuff out of the freezer, that way you wont lose anything but time if you try this next time.
just for an idea, i the ratios i am thinking of when i am saying this is 250 powders mhrb to 250 lye and 250ish ml of naptha 2500ish ml of water in a 3ltr glass lid jar. i do not know the ratios you are using, but it should be in the same ballpark.
so you do your normal stb process and make sure that the mhrb and water are nicely mixed in your glass jar, use a hand blender if you need to, give it a real good mix, shake it, violently. add the lye water, make sure this is mixed a little shake should be okay. Stir it now for 4 - 5 mins. no more shaking. all this happens at room temperature. no need to chill the lye, just make sure it has cooled a bit and has stopped reacting before you add it to the mhrb/water paste.
- let this settle for five to 10 minutes. it should still be foamyish.
- slowly pour in the desired amount of naptha
- replace lid and leave for 5 minutes.
- for ultra clear crystals but a lower yield per pull:
- lie the bottle/jar on the floor on its side and slowly roll the jar 360 degrees then stop - maybe 2 - 3 seconds
- now roll it back 360 degrees at the same pace.
- do this 10 times in each direction then let stand for 5 mins or until it looks settled again. - stuff can stick to the glass to make it look not settled when it is.
- repeat 2 or 3 times - depending on how quickly your solvent picks up the yellow stuff.
- for _slightly_ yellow crystals but still impressive and white and less pulls - i think over all greater yields too, but that is another post.
- hold the jar in your hands and turn end over end 20 times - do this carefully though and slowly maybe 3 - 5 seconds a spin. i do it in two movements of 180 degrees.
- let stand for 5 minutes - the solvent doesnt have to be completely clear at this point, just there shouldnt be any cloud like bits where it joins the mhrb - watch for emulsions. any will ruin the whiteness, in waiting for them to
- repeat 3 times
[end of diffence]
- now take the jar and get that naptha out and freeze it at -20.
repeat this until you have all the dmt.
it took me a little while to find the right combo of technique and naptha for this, but it isnt that hard. it saves so much time. and of course a recystalisation will sort a lot of the problem if it is really yellow. but you tend to lose spice that way and it takes time.
i hope this helps. your milage may vary. sorry if this kills your cat, it isnt meant to.
thp.