hi guys, ok im trying extracting again with stb, its been almost 2 days now and naptha hasn't turned yellow. It was on hot electronics all day and night, and been lightly swirling the jar every couple hours, dont want to b too aggressive and cause another immulsion, anything else i can do to make the naphta yellow, since its still clear?

also one thing im confused with in the extraction procedure is, after im done with the first pull, between the next following 4-5 or so pulls should i repeat exactly what i did for the first: wait at least 24 hours , keep jar on hot electronics, swirl the jar every now and then?
thnks

My naphtha never turned yellow until I started evaporating it, it would start out clear then eventually turn increasingly darker shades of yellow.

I have heard/read that the first 3 pulls can be done as soon as the naphtha separates, And only the later pulls should be allowed to soak longer to make sure you get everything out.

I have only done 1 extraction so far, so my experience is limited. Personally I let the first run separate overnight and pulled the naphtha out the following morning. Then I added more naphtha and stirred(actually rolled) it for 30 minutes then let it separate completely, and then stirred(rolled) it again for 30 minutes then let it separate, and so on. So each day I would mix it 4-5 times, let it separate overnight, and pull in the morning. I did a total of 5 pulls and yielded 7.05 grams from ~454 grams.

Yup, Shrabbit has it right. The naphtha will generally remain clear when extracting from MHRB. This is a good thing considering DMT is colorless.

And personally, I wouldn't ever let a pull just sit for 24 hours. Call me paranoid, but it seems best to have any damning evidence of manufacture of a Schedule I drug gone as quickly as possible. I imagine you may lose a very small fraction of the yield by not doing a very long final pull, but I'd prefer to have everything completely done (DMT precipitated, dried, and stored, and the plant sludge disposed of) within at most 36 hours of starting the extraction (and that's with an A/B; with STB, you ought to be able to get the whole thing done while still losing only a minimal amount of product in 24 hours or less).

ok i dont know what kind of STB extraction you do but the STB tek swim knows is very simple and you get your spice next day. swim does for puls and than put the naphta to freezer. swim did extraction few days ago and got 1.6g of beautiful white spice out of 100g of mimosa. if people inetersted maybe swim should post the tek he use for everyon.

I would like to know the tek SWIY used
Someone who i love will be doing a STB extraction using 50g Acacia Confusa next week for an experiment and would like to hear all teks.

this is the one i used and its the best. this tek is for big amount of MHRB but you can adjust it to your amount of MHRB.as you will read through you will noticed that pictures are not included but i am going to attach pdf file with pictures as well. here it is:


First, 1 lb of lye is added slowly to each gallon jug, that has been filled about halfway with cold tap water. To do this safely, SWIM places the jugs into a bathtub or sink, and runs cold water to go about halfway up the jugs. He makes sure that the water outside doesn't exceed the height of the water inside the jugs, or they will float and won't sit right in the sink or tub.

He then takes a 2 liter bottle that has the bottom cut off, and is clean and dry and places it into the top of the gallon jug. He slowly pours the lye in, about 1/3 of the lb at a time, then gives them a vigorous shake. He releases the pressure as they heat rapidly, and recaps it, then places it into the cold bath.

He shakes it more, and it heats again. Each time the jug begins to get hot, he sets it back into the cold bath, to keep the jug from getting soft. When the jug no longer heats when shaken, he adds the next bit of lye, until all the lye has been added to the half gallon of water in the jug. Once it is all added, he again shakes the crap out of it. He continues shaking and setting into the cold bath, until when shaken the jug no longer heats.

The jugs are removed from the cold bath. He takes his powdered MHRB as shown here and begins to weigh out 454 grams, or 1 lb of MHRB into a cup.

The 2 liter funnel is placed into the jug, and the MHRB is poured into the funnel. To make it easier to get the MHRB powder into the jug, he takes a butter knife and agitates the bark in the 2 liter, poking it down into the hole, so the hole is not clogged.

This pic shows after 1 lb of bark has been added to each 1 gallon jug, that is half filled with lye water.

Both jugs are shaken vigorously, as shown above.

The jugs are then topped off with a little bit more hot tap water, but allowing enough room for 400 mls of VM&P Naphtha, and room to shake and easily pour. By adding a bit more water at this stage, it allows the MHRB/lye/water to be a little thinner and not too sludgy.

These jugs are then left to sit in the heat bath for at least one hour, to allow any DMT freebase to be loosened from the tiny bark particles. The jugs are shaken periodically during the hour or so, and set back in the heat bath. Once the hour has passed, it's on to the next step..

Now, 400 mls of room temperature naphtha is measured using a quart jar, thenfunneled into each jug. The height of the naphtha in the jug is mentally noted, so one can easily tell when all the emulsions and bubbles have settled out of the shaken mixture.

Both jugs are shaken vigorously (one may want to not shake em so hard, but with this tek, separation still occurs fairly quickly, even when one shakes the beejesus out of them). These jugs were shaken vigorously several times, and placed in a heat bath, which consists of tap water in the plugged sink, as hot as it will go, and as high up on the jugs as possible, without overflowing the sink.

After about 20 minutes, one can see the layers slowly starting to separate. This is why the mental note is taken when waiting for separation, as the layers are easy to see, but the emulsion layer is harder to see through the opaque jugs. One needs to wait, and the heat bath helps, until the layers are totally separated, before trying to remove the naphtha layer, or they will not get it all out very easily..

In this case, after about 45 minutes or so, one can see they have separated nicely, and both layers are easily seen.

SWIM now takes a gatorade bottle, with the twist close type nozzle, and cuts the very bottom off of it. The bottle is rinsed out and the jugs of naphtha are slowly poured into the bottle, making sure the nozzle is twisted closed. By pouring slowly, one can manage to get very little MHRB sludge/water into the makeshift funnel.

Here one can see that a little bit of the MHRB/lye water solution has gotten into the funnel, along with the majority of the solvent. Leaving about an 1/8 inch or so of solvent isn't a big worry, because when doing 3-4 pulls, there will be very little DMT left in that tiny, thin layer.

The makeshift funnel is then held over the open jug, and the twist nozzle is opened slowly, to allow the majority of MHRB juice to drain back into the original jug. Sometimes the hole can clog a bit with bark particles, but the solvent can still be easily poured off the top of the flexible make shift funnel if this happens. The solvent is collected in a fresh jug for washing later.

If one pours the solvent off of the top of the makeshift funnel, slowly, they can watch the little bit of leftover MHRB juice go down the ridges of the makeshift funnel, and they can be sure not to get any of that into the solvent collecting jug.

It's better to just pour a fine layer of solvent back into the extraction jug, than to get the MHRB juice into the solvent collection jug, but if either happens, one will wash the solvent anyways, or will do more pulls on the extraction jug and can get the majority of solvent in the next pull.

Here you see that both jugs have been separated and the solvent layer from each combined into the collection jug. As stated, one can notice a fine layer of naphtha still floating on the MHRB juice, but more naphtha will be added for the next pull.

SWIM used fresh naphtha for his first pull, but for the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pulls, he uses naphtha that he had left from his last extraction. The DMT had been freeze precipitated out, and the used solvent was saved for the next extraction.

Here one can see that SWIM has added 400 mls more of the used solvent to each jug for beginning the second pull.

Both jugs again were shaken vigorously, then placed back into the heat bath, with fresh hot water added in the heat bath, and left for another 20 minutes or so to separate..

After about 20-30 minutes, one can again see the separation occurring in the jugs. Again, SWIM separates the solvent, using the makeshift separatory funnel made from the gatorade bottle. The solvent is collected into the collection jug again.

Here is the second pull separated and, once again, you will notice that there is still a small layer of naphtha floating on the MHRB juice. Again, not to worry, the 3rd and fourth pulls will be done, and on the 4th, extra care will be used to try and get the majority. However, an 1/8 inch of solvent, with very little DMT in it, is usually not worth the bother..

Here you will see another 400 mls of naphtha (again recycled from the previous extraction) added to both jugs, which are again shaken and placed into a heat bath.

Fresh water is again run to keep the heat bath hot, and to allow faster separation. This was the third pull, but separation took extra long in one of the jugs, and since it was getting late, he didn't wait for total separation, because he was in a hurry. However, one can add more lye if this happens, or they can just let it continue to sit in a heat bath until full separation occurs.

So, a fourth pull was added to the jug, after he got off the majority of solvent that he could from both jugs. He again shook them vigorously (which may have been the reason the one jug took so long to separate), then placed them in the heat bath and separated, as shown in the previous 3 pulls. SWIm will leave the fourth pull and separation out of the pictorial, since the photos above show the process easily. The next pic shows after all 4 pulls have been done and separated..

This shows what the jugs looked like after 4 pulls were done, and the solvent collected into the single collection jug. Again, you'll notice the one jug still having a bit of extra solvent that hasn't totally separated, and why it was good to take a mental note. SWIM decided that he was tired, and set the solvent jug in a heat bath, so DMT would not begin to precipitate out, and he set the two jugs back in as well, and called it a night.

The rest of the solvent that was taking long to separate out of the difficult jug, had finally separated out by morning, and so he removed the majority of it and added it to the solvent jug. This solvent was now ready to be washed and dried, then freeze precipitated.

Here you'll see, he has gathered his sodium carbonate (pH Plus) and his epsom salts, along with his jug of DMT filled solvent. He gets a jar for mixing the sodium carbonate and water, takes his makeshift sep funnel, his 2 liter funnel, and another gallon jug, and places them all into his work area.

One trick to the polar wash, is doing it all fairly quickly. By not allowing the water to sit in the solvent for long after it separates (which happens in seconds), it makes sure that DMT is not ionized and pulled back into the water. Sodium carbonate also raises the PH of the water to above 9, where the DMT also will not ionize quickly, if at all.

In a pinch, sodium bicarbonate could be used, but should also been done very quickly, so as not close yields, since it doesn't raise the pH as high as the carbonate does.

Here SWIM pours a thin layer of sodium carbonate into the jar. He then runs hot tap water into the jar and looks at the bottom of the jar, sometimes giving it a good stir, to just dissolve all the sodium carbonate.

The wash water will look cloudy after first being mixed, but if left to settle for a few minutes, it will get clearer, and one can try to add a bit more sodium carbonate, to make sure it is saturated. If one can test the pH, just be sure that the pH of the water is 9 or 10 at least.

Here one can see that SWIM has poured a small amount of the sodium carbonate water into the sep funnel.

The sodium carbonate water is then drained into the solvent jug and shaken vigorously. The separation occurs within seconds.

When the separation occurs, one will see the dark orange water layer. This is your polar impurities that were left in your solvent. Looks pretty nasty, right? That's why we want to do this wash, to pull out some of that color, and any residual lye.

The majority of the solvent is poured from one jug, into a new jug.

When the majority is poured off, one can see the water layer getting close to the nozzle. This mixture is then poured into the makeshift gatoradesep funnel.

Another photo to show the separation closer..

Here you'll see the mix poured into the sep funnel, and the bottom wash water layer is drained out, and the remaining solvent added back to the jug.

The second wash is performed in the same way. The sodium carbonate water is placed into the funnel again.

Here you can see it again being drained into the solvent jug.

The jug has been shaken vigorously again and has settled. It is hard to see the tiny water layer in this pic, especially with the opaque jug, but if you look closely, you may be able to see it..

Again, the majority of solvent is poured off the top, back into the other jug.

SWIM has stopped pouring when he sees the water layer getting close, then transfers the mix back into his sep funnel. You see that all the color has been removed, and the water is clear.

Here you can see the separation clearer, and how the wash water is much cleaner than in the first wash.
Now, SWIM takes a tiny bit of cold tap water (pictured here) to do one more final wash. This one is the one that should be done quickly, because the PH of the water has not been adjusted with anything. SWIM's tap water comes out to a pH of about 7.5-8, but if left to sit in the naphtha, could ionize DMT. This is why just a tiny amount is used for a large amount of solvent, and why it is done quickly. Also, if there had been any carbonate or lye left in the solvent, this plain water wash will collect that, raising the PH of the water, and lowering the PH of the solvent. This ensures there will be no residual lye or contaminants in the final DMT. One could test this final cold tap water wash before and after to see how much lye is removed..

Here you see the cold tap water wash being drained into the solvent, for the final, plain, cold tap water wash.

Again, this is shaken vigorously, and it separates within seconds, although one can barely see the water layer. The majority of solvent is again poured into the other jug, until a small amount of solvent and the water layer are left. This is again poured into the makeshift sep funnel, and separated as shown in each previous step.

The water layer is discarded again, and the solvent returned to the solvent collection jug.

Here you can see some everyday epsom salts, purchasable from any local grocery or drug store.

A thin layer is poured onto a microwave safe plate.

Here you can see it is spread thinly over the plate. This is placed into the microwave on 5-10 minute on high to cook all the moisture out of the espom salt.

After cooking it, you can see it is very white and crispy, and is stuck to the plate. NOTICE the oven mitt, the plate will be extremely hot, so handle with care. The cooked epsom salts are chipped away from the plate with a butter knife, and care is used so one does not get burnt by the hot plate.

Here you can see the epsom salt chipped away, and then SWIM uses his fist or something hard to grind the chunks to a bit more powdery, with some chunks, as well..

The powder and chunks are added to the jug. SWIM doesn't measure, but just adds a few pinchfuls to the solvent, then he shakes it vigorously, so all the moisture that was left in the jug is soaked up and so no water can be seen in the bottom of the jug. This is left to settle, which also happens within seconds..

Here you can see the espom salts collected in the bottom of the jug and all the moisture has been soaked up.

The 2 liter funnel is upturned into a fresh, dry, clean jug, and a coffee filter is placed inside, to catch any epsom salt that falls out when pouring it into the fresh clean jug..

Here you can see the solvent has been poured through the filter slowly, and any epsom salt is caught in the coffee filter..

Here is the jug, now washed and dried, in a fresh, dry, clean jug, which is now ready to be placed in the freezer for anywhere from 12-72 hours. By waiting longer, the DMT settles out much better, and does not float in the solvent. This helps when pouring the solvent off the crystals slowly, into another jug, to be saved for future extractions..

Here one can see the DMT settling out of the solvent that has been in the freezer for about 18 hours or so..

Here is a large photo taken after the majority of solvent is poured off into a jug for later use. The top is then cut off of the jug, to reveal the huge pile of slightly yellow DMT, with tiny bit of residual solvent.

This is the DMT after the solvent has dried up and the DMT has been scraped out of the jug. This chunky DMT is now spread thinly onto a glass baking dish, and chopped up finely, then placed in front of a box fan to continue drying completely.

Once the solvent smell is gone and the crystals are thoroughly dried, they were placed back on the scale to show the yield and results..

So there you have it folks, a complete step by step pictorial of a simple STB, plus polar wash, and epsom salt dry, that anyone should be able to complete easily. This is what SWIM did, precisely, and got 17.1 grams of slightly yellow DMT, that will be recrystallized in days to come.

He'll take pics of the recrystallization procedure as well, then add them to this thread when he gets around to it. Until then, you'll have to go by the text in other threads..

Hope this helps clear up any questions, and shows exactly how simple the extraction is. No need for any extensive chemistry knowledge, and everything is easily found in most any neighborhood.

Use it wisely, and stay safe people!! Don't forget to share your DMT experiences and revelations here at Mycotopia, the best forum on the internet!!

sorry for that mycotopia advert but it is where i got it from so i posted it all without any additing

peace

i used this stb tek: http://www.shroomery.org...9233/fpart/1/vc/1/nt/124
seems pretty simple and has very nice pictorial instructions, i just made my first pull, even through it was clear since u guys said its ok, one real cool thing that happened is when i first started the pull accidently added some bark sludge and after pouring the little naptha back into jar and just little dark sludge in the small jar i noticed started to see movement. started out slow than amazingly the sludge all over started sparkling like it was alive. Like to think the dmt in it was dancing ,

still alittle confused on what to do from here for my following pulls .while im waiting for 1st pull's naptha to finish freeze pricipitating, do i keep the big jar with bark n naptha on heat and continue to swirl every few hours? or just set it aside?
thnks

neone?, please i dont want to screw up another extraction

you should do 3 or 4 puls first and than put all naphtha in freezer leave it there for about 17-24 hours and then separate naphtha from dmt. then i put dmt on glass and leave to to dry. it is all there in my tek. you should also do pollar wash as well before you put naphtha in freezer. the whole process of woshing is also included in the pdf file.

while the first pull is freeze priciptating should i keep the jar w/bark,lye,naptha still on hot electronics?so the jar is on heat throughout the entire exptraction process. and do i need to do additional swirling/mixing between the following pulls?

if you read the tek above you will see how exactly you should procede. i do not know what tek are you using but as far as i know you dont have to keep the jar w/bark,lye,naptha still on hot electronics only you heat it up before yoy put new naphtha in for another pull. but if you started that way just carry on it wont harm it i guess.

so after pull heat it up and put another naphtha in. then shake it well and leave till naphtha separates around 45 min. then pull it out and repeat. do 4 or 5 pulls put all naphtha together and do the pollar wash to get rid off all residue and oil and bad stuff. than just put it all in freezer for 24 hours and woalaaaa you have spice.

please read carefuly the extraction i posted in this thread plus download the pdf file with pictures. it is the best STB extraction. if you still dont understand how to procede come back . good luck man hope you get lots of nice white spice.

also come back to report the outcome. peace