Hey guys how goes it!!?? SWIM is in love with this forum and can't wait to move up the chain! sooo anyway. SWIM is doing a STB Tek for the first time so SWIM is going to do an outline of the procedure and let me know if u have any pointers or suggestions for this SWIM just wanna make sure it is done right and cleanly!
So SWIM start with a pound of MHRB and two gallon milk jugs and SWIM fill each jug up halfway with water and use funnel to mix a pound of lye in each jug mixing about a 3rd of the lye at a time and keeping the jugs in a cold water bath while mixing because the dissolving lye will produce some heat.

Next SWIM mixes the MHRB with both jug a pound of bark in each, shake each one vigorously add a lil hot water to make it less sludgy and let sit in hot water bath for a hour to allow the lye to break down the bark and pull the DMT from the particals shaking periodically after the hour on to the next step

Now SWIM adds 400 mls of Naptha and shakes them and turns the jugs around being careful to not create an emulsion that will have to wait to let settle in a heat bath in the sink or bath. after it has settled (45min) SWIM pours the naptha off into a second jug until the MHRB layer is very close then the small leftover layer is poured into a seperation funnel and the basic layer is returned to the jug and the naptha is returned to its seperate jug

After 3 to 4 pulls with this method the washing jug is full of pulled naptha. Now SWIM is ready to do a polar wash! SWIM mixes sodium carbonate and water in a jar until it is dissolved to where it is cloudy clear (enough to get a pH of 9) then about an inch n half is poured into the seperation funnel for measurement and is then drained into the naptha and is shaken vigorously and it seperates is seconds on the bottom as a orange-red layer of water that is drained and is repeated a second time after that a non pH adjusted wash is done very quickly so as to collect any residual lye and keep from ionizing any DMT to the water.

The last part is done to dry the naptha and make sure there is no water floating in it by taking a small handful of Epsom salts on a plate and microwaved to bake any moisture out and then is broken up and dropped in the naptha jug and shaken around after it is settled the naptha is poured through a coffee filter in a 2 liter bottle funnel to filter all the salt out of the solvent. After that SWIM puts the jug in the freezer for 72 hours or more and pours the naptha through the funnel filter to collect any DMT crystals that are floating and then the naptha can be reused.

That is the Tek that SWIM is using this weekend to do this his first time any pointers or suggestions are completely encouraged to do so. Another question is where can SWIM aquire some gloves and glasses that will not melt when coming in contact with lye SAFTEY FIRST KIDS!! IF ANYTHING SWIM JUST NEEDs TO KNOW THE KIND OF PLASIC THAT WILL NOT MELT WHEN IN CONTACT WITH LYE thanx and SWIM hopes this place stays as friendly and supportive as SWIM has seen so far!

Sounds like you're starting out with a pretty good plan! I've never done an extraction on the scale, but here are my thoughts:

As far as the plastic goes, HDPE (Milk and some water jugs), with the recycle symbol 2, can handle the high ph. Personally, I always use glass jugs, but that's just me.

I am unsure as to how gooey that mixture is going to be, it sounds like not enough water for as much bark as you're going to have in there. The old saying is the more water, the more pulls but the cleaner product. Again, I have never done an extraction that big, so that may be more than enough water, just chiming in.

In regards to the freeze precipitation, the key is having an adequately saturated solvent, or else the crystals won't crash out. If nothing crashes out, you might have to evap some of that naphtha off. Also, how are you planning on getting the free crystals out of the jug after you pour off the naphtha? It may be different with HDPE vs the glass I've always used, but with glass, most of the crystals are stuck pretty good to the bottom of the beaker/jar/pyrex I use to freeze precip. A warm, minimal amount of naptha would be able to get them out, or I suppose you could just cut the jup open and scrape away!

One question I would add is how will HDPE jugs stand up to prolonged solvent exposure? I've tried looking around for that answer with no luck.

Good luck!

Pretty sure my mix, with solvent, sat in the (milk) jug for a week at least. Temps about 40-80f. The jug did seem weakened, but held up well enough to shake and roll.

Use glass! Naptha can break down the plastic milk jugs. After your naptha is separated you can just freeze precip and then clean with a re-x. Maybe evap your naptha halfway before your precip process.

i prefer hdpe to plastic any day. neither naphtha or acids or bases hurt hdpe

where as base can weaken glass overtime, and besides- it shatters making a huge dangerous mess alot easier than plastic

Thank you everyone for replying this community is amazing this place feels like home lol. In regards to the freeze precip SWIM is going to pour the naphtha though a 2 liter bottle funnel with coffee filter in it to catch any free floating crystal and then cut the jug open and scrape away SWIM downloaded a STB Tek with pix and that was the ratio from bark to water half a jug of water 1lb of lye and 1lb of bark a 1:1Ratio and 400ml Naphtha pulls. in the freeze precip pix there was alot of solid spice on the sides but the naphtha still saturated alot is there any risk of it not precipitating as much because SWIM evaped some of the solvent to saturate it more? the tek yielded 17 grams dried 19 wet. other than that is isopropal alcohol a good medium to do a recrystalization and is it really worth it?? the last spice SWIM delved in was straight from the precip no re-x and just to help clarify all that is done is the spice is dissolved into the iso and then evapped out again?? SWIM hasnt found any re-x teks if anyone can at least explain the the jist of the process it would be a huge help SWIM understands it refines the spice to a higher purity it just seems stupidly easy but SWIM always doubts it until its verifyed when it comes to extracts.

Not true homeboy naptha and hdpe dont mix. Not sure where I read it but solvents are not good.I read it on this site I think try wikipedia.

SWIM think 17-19g on 2 pound bark is really good!
The on who made that tek is truly good, much better than SWIM (who got almost nothing from his first batch)...
I think SWIM could learn much from the one that made that tek!
SWIM is also very, very thankful that the one who made that tek did write a very detailed report.

Best of luck on future batches!

http://www.labsafety.com...emicalresistanceguide.pd

um, yeah its fine, if you use good quality hdpe. avoid acetone or mek though.
its not like we are talking long term use here, and i'm not recommending milk jugs...

i'm just going off experience, i didn't need to read the wiki

Well maybe you should read it because this is what it says " HDPE is compatible with a wide range of products including acids and caustics but is not compatible with solvents." So stop sreading misinfo please. And use glass.

Water is a solvent. Just sayin'.