We've Moved! Visit our NEW FORUM to join the latest discussions. This is an archive of our previous conversations...

You can find the login page for the old forum here.
CHATPRIVACYDONATELOGINREGISTER
DMT-Nexus
FAQWIKIHEALTH & SAFETYARTATTITUDEACTIVE TOPICS
Another Iboga alkaloid extraction with purification, if needed. Options
 
GratefulDad
#1 Posted : 2/21/2010 7:59:53 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 191
Joined: 13-Sep-2009
Last visit: 25-Nov-2017
Location: Here, Now
This tek was adapted from Chris Jenks' extraction notes found elsewhere on the internet. I have added the measurements used in panoramix's tek, to be more precise, so thanks to both of you! I have modified it slightly per my own tek, developed with Chris Jenks' help, and have added precise measurements from reading panroramix's tek. It is nice to have more precise measurements, rather than just going by eye and careful titration. So here goes:

The Extraction:

What you need: Plain white distilled vinegar, a stainless steel, ceramic, HDPE, or non-reactive container, janitorial strength (10%+) non-sudsy ammonia, distilled water, a funnel, coffee filters, old t-shirt, and the iboga bark.

Optional for added purity: Acetone, muriatic acid (28-36% HCl), and Everclear (95% pure ethanol).

1: Take the bark, and make sure it's as fine of a powder as possible.

2: Add enough vinegar to thoroughly cover the bark. A good measurement for the vinegar is about 5 times the amount (volume) of vinegar to the weight of bark.

In this instance 40g of bark times 5 would be about 200 mls of vinegar per soak. One may need slightly more in the first couple extractions to thoroughly cover the bark, and excess can be used safely, however it will lengthen the time of filtering later, so try and keep the volumes minimal.

3: The bark can be stirred occasionally, and left to sit for at least one hour.

Adding heat makes the bark harder to filter, and isn't necessary.

4: After an hour has passed, one needs to filter the bark from the vinegar with a cloth t-shirt. Squeeze out the bark to gather all the vinegar and save this. The bark is then returned to the container for another soak. This should be done 4 times to be sure to get out all the alkaloids.

5: While letting the bark soak again, as in the previous steps, Filter the collected vinegar through coffee filters.

This can take a long time to filter, since the coffee filters clog easily, and may need to be replaced often. Have patience though. If you can leave it sitting in the funnel, with a filter, the juice will eventually pass through. This filtering isn't 100% necessary but it will remove all the fine plant particles from the solution, so the initial extraction will come out much cleaner, so it's a good idea.

6: Once all the vinegar has been collected and filtered through a coffee filter, you have two options.

The first would be to evaporate the vinegar a bit, by using low heat and a fan. Under boiling is fine to reduce the vinegar, and will make it easier to deal with less liquid. You don't want to evaporate it to thickness though, just enough to make it easy to work with in a smaller container. The second option is to skip the evaporation and proceed directly to the next step.

7: Once you have all your vinegar collected, and evaporated a good bit, if you like, you are ready to add the ammonia. You can slowly pour ammonia into the vinegar, to make it basic. pH papers aren't needed, but if used, just make sure the pH is above 10.1.

As you add the ammonia, the solution will heat slightly, and you will see cloudy precipitate forming. You can add more ammonia, to be sure, as too much won't hurt, it will just add to the amount of solution that needs to be filtered, which can take awhile.

8: Now, if left to settle, the precipitate (freebase total alkaloids) will sink to the bottom of the container. The majority of the clear solution at the top can be siphoned off, and filtered to be sure no precipitate is in it.

If it looks clear, not cloudy, though, all the precipitate should have sunken to the bottom. By removing a large portion of the upper clear (tea color) water, this will allow you to have much less solution to filter out your alkaloids. You can save everything you siphoned off and add more ammonia later, to be sure you got out all the freebase alkaloids.

9: Now you can filter the muddy solution through coffee filters again.

Filtering this can take a good bit as the precipitate begins to clog the filter, but again, be patient, as the solution will eventually pass through the filter completely. This may take overnight, so don't worry if it takes a long time. Once you have filtered the solution, you can set aside the clear tea colored water for later, to add more ammonia, and be sure you collected all the precipitate.

10: You should now have a coffee filter with all the brown freebase precipitate stuck to it. You should then add a liberal amount of distilled water to the filter in the funnel. You will thoroughly rinse the precipitate with the distilled water to wash away any extra impurities.

Again, waiting for the water to pass through the alkaloid coated coffee filter may take awhile, so just have patience.

11: This precipitate can then be placed in front of a fan with a warm air current, away from UV light, and left to dry.

This is now your crude freebase total alkaloid extract. This can be capped when dry and used as is, and should be much cleaner than the simple vinegar extraction. However, for those of us that want it much more pure, there are two options.

First option:

1: Take the filter with the dried crusty precipitate and break up the filtrate to a fine powder. You can use the same filter, or take a new one and place it in a funnel that is plugged (SWIM uses a two liter bottle with the bottom cut off for a funnel, so capping the opening can seal it, but a finger may be used). Add the filtrate to the plugged funnel.

2: Let the vinegar sit, maybe stir it around a bit in the filter, then let it drain through, and save the vinegar.

3: You can repeat with fresh vinegar another time, and collect all the vinegar.

4: Add ammonia to the vinegar again, to precipitate the alkaloids, which should be even cleaner this time.

5: Re-filter out all the alkaloids, and let dry as above.

This can now be used as is and should be even cleaner.


Second (more involved) option:

Okay so you have your brown precipitate in your coffee filter, now dried up, from the first portion of the extraction.

1: You now, take your acetone and add 15 mls of acetone per gram of freebase TA extract (brown crud), and soak the filter with it. You can stir around the precipitate in the filter, and wash two or three times with acetone. The filter should contain any bark crud that got through, and any other impurities.

This will remove the alkaloids from the solid filtrate, since the freebase is soluble in acetone.

2: Take your muriatic acid, and add it very slowly, to the acetone. You must do this dropwise, and watch as the precipitate forms. (one milliliter for each six grams of TA) is added in small portions, slowly, until the precipitation of solid begins.

Adding too much can start to redissolve the ibogaine. You can add a few drops at a time, and watch as the precipitate forms. When it stops forming, you can place this into the fridge, to chill for a few hours, before filtering, and this will increase the yield. You can add more acid a second time to the acetone after filtering the first precipitate to be sure you got it all.

3: Filter out the ibogaine HCl.

This is nearly pure ibogaine HCl, but there may be a bit left in the acetone, and all the other alkaloids will also be in the acetone. You can evaporate some of the acetone with a fan and low heat, then treat it with the muriatic acid again, and harvest any more crystals of ibogaine HCl that precipitate. Filter it out as well and add it to the first filtrate.

4: If you would like pure ibogaine HCl, without the other alkaloids, you can take the ibogaine HCl crystals, and dissolve it in boiling ethanol.

The boiling ethanol should be added dropwise, just until all the ibogaine HCl has dissolved.

5: This ethanol solution is then left to cool in the fridge and the ibogaine will recrystallize.

This will make the ibogaine HCl form much more pure crystals and can remove some of the ibogamine/ibogaline if still present in the precipitate. It is not necessary unless going for 98%+ purity, and repeated recrystallizations can yield very pure ibogaine HCl, but can cost a bit of yield.

When this is dry, it is ready to take.

6: For those who want to recover all the alkaloids, so they can take a complete total alkaloid extract of high purity, they should take the acetone that they salted out the ibogaine HCl, and evaporate it in front of a fan with warm air current.

The resulting leftover alkaloids will be an unstable oil.

7: Dissolve this oil in distilled water.

8: Add ammonia to this water with the oil dissolved into it.

You will again see the freebase residual alkaloids precipitate out of the water/ammonia solution.

9: Filter out the freebase alkaloids, and rinse again thoroughly with distilled water.

10: Let the freebase residual alkaloids dry completely.

You can then add your freebase residual alkaloids to your ibogaine HCl, and capsulize it. Freebases will be converted to the HCl salts in your stomach, so turning them into the HCl salt before ingesting is unnecessary.


So there you have it folks. If you want a very pure extract in which you only need to take a gram or two of extract, versus 7-8 g of brown gunk, then this is how to do it! The purity should help eliminate some of the nausea and should also be absorbed very quickly by the system.
 

STS is a community for people interested in growing, preserving and researching botanical species, particularly those with remarkable therapeutic and/or psychoactive properties.
 
GratefulDad
#2 Posted : 2/23/2010 10:52:10 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 191
Joined: 13-Sep-2009
Last visit: 25-Nov-2017
Location: Here, Now
Hey folks, I received a PM from another member, but have removed personal info from it, however, I think it can help give some great info on details. I posted my answer to some very relevant questions, which may be a big help to any others interested in performing this extraction. Thanks to the anonymous party for your questions, and I hope they may help others to have more clarity when trying this extraction for themselves.

Quote:
Yesterday I was doing your updated version of Achtwan's extraction tek for iboga. But I didnt see you updated it on the 21st so when I read that boiling the bark/vinegar solution was fine (Step 6) I boiled it full heat for maybe 30 seconds and then at the boiling temperature (where its just about to boil) for 30 minute to evaporate a bunch of vinegar.

Now in the update you say "under boiling is fine (do not boil it)" Im not sure what it means but do you think that my solution is still good ? I completed step 1 to 11 (by the book) and am now waiting for my crud to dry.

Also, I rinsed the crud with water only 1 time, putting water in the alkaloid-coated coffee filter and waiting for the water to go through. The solution that came out of the filter (which is waste) had PH 8. Is it ok ?


Boiling the iboga alkaloid acetates probably won't hurt it too much, but is not recommended. SWIM has accidentally got it to boiling for a few minutes, but turned it off quickly, and noticed no reduction in yield. Recrystallizing iboga alkaloids in boiling ethanol can make your ibogaine HCl darker, and may degrade it a bit, so it should be done sparingly, and only when 98%+ pure ibogaine HCl is desired.

The water that was washed through your freebase, is probably water and ammonium acetate, which will have a slightly basic pH. This is good to wash out, as it will add to the purity of your freebase. You could wash it again with distilled water and test it again. When the pH is at neutral, you are sure to have any ammonium acetate out of the freebase. This is still only probably 50% actual iboga alkaloids, at this purity, in freebase form. So if using this, dose accordingly. Consider the freebase 50% pure alkaloid, and for an addiction flood dose, dose it at 15-20 mg/kg dose, considering 50% insoluble plant material (3g of freebase brown material would equal 1.5 grams of total active alkaloid freebase). Meaning, consider 3g of freebase, actually 1.5 g of actual alkaloids.

If you intend to rinse this with acetone and convert the alkaloids to the HCl salts, then do as follows. Place the freebase alkaloids in a plugged funnel with a filter. Add, 15-18 mls of acetone per gram of brown TA. Stir it around and let it soak in the filter, but be sure not to poke a hole in the filter. After the acetone has been agitated well in the filter and absorbs as much color as possible, unplug the funnel and let the acetone pass through. The insoluble gunk left in the filter should be totally inactive plant material and can be discarded. A taste test can be performed, to be sure no bitterness is left, to insure there is no alkaloid left in the gunk.

Now you will want to add 1 ml of hydrochloric acid, preferably 33% or higher, per 6 grams of TA freebase. You will place this in the refrigerator, and let all the crystals precipitate. The crystals can be filtered out, and left to dry. One can evaporate some of the acetone, and be sure to separate any water contained in the acetone (from using muriatic acid to salt). This acetone can then be treated one more time with a drop or two of muriatic acid, and left to see if anything precipitates. If so, this can be collected and added to the first precipitate. If not, then you have extracted all the ibogaine/ibogaline/ibogamine HCl from the solution.

Now, to recover the residual alkaloids from the acetone... Evaporate the acetone under a fan, and collect the oil that is leftover. Dissolve this oil in as small amount of distilled water as possible. Add ammonia, once more, to the water, and watch as the freebase alkaloids precipitate out of the solution. These can then be filtered out of the water, and left to dry. They can be rinsed thoroughly with distilled water, then left to dry.

Each extract can be weighed, and mixed into an equal ratio. This will now be a full spectrum iboga alkaloid extract (Purified Total Active Alkaloid extract, aka PTAA), minus every bit of plant material. It should be dosed at the same precise dose as ibogaine HCl, as the added alkaloids are sometimes as strong, if not stronger, and longer lasting, as the ibogaine HCl, itself.

Please use extra caution, a sitter, and do all possible research about using ibogaine, as this extract is of utmost purity and is VERY, VERY strong medicine, not to be undertaken by a novice. I wish you all good luck, and please do not hesitate to ask me any questions, as I do care for your safety and well being! All my best, and good luck to you all!

SpIce-T
 
Hypnos
#3 Posted : 2/24/2010 7:47:50 AM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 84
Joined: 04-Feb-2010
Last visit: 03-Jul-2016
Location: The chamber of 32 doors
Heres my stats for the extraction (step 1 to 11 by the book) and other infos that might be useful:

Step 1to7 took 7 hour
then added ammonia and left to settle for 8 hours
then step 8to11 took me 12 hours (crud was long to dry).

So overall I had the precipitate capped and ready 29hours after I began (all included, skill level Newbie (first extraction of anything ever).

One thing I noticed Spice-T is that my 2nd ammonia wash didnt get enough alkaloids to scrape em from the filter so I think that it might not be needed if you put enough ammonia at first and give it enough time to do its magic.

I had 50 grams of finely powered iboga rootbark and it gave me 5 grams of extract (containing 50% alkaloids).

One last thing, I was working with 3 funnels and 6 containers (2 big, 4 mason jars) at a time but I would consider getting a 4th funnel (bottom-less pepsi bottles). Waiting for the liquid to pass through the coffee filters in each steps is long its good if you can do it with a lot of filters at the same time. Obvious I know but its my first extraction and am proud of my baby Smile

Thanks again Spice-T,

Anynomous party Wink
I AM.
 
GratefulDad
#4 Posted : 2/25/2010 9:23:32 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 191
Joined: 13-Sep-2009
Last visit: 25-Nov-2017
Location: Here, Now
Congratulations! To be safe, you can ease into it by splitting up all of your dose into halves an hour or so apart. It's not a good idea to keep boosting too far into the experience, or it has a multiple plateau type effect, but it can be taken gradually over a few hours to lessen the shock to the system.

Taking a full flood, though, after a test dose, to be sure of no adverse reactions, will definitely shoot you right into iboga-zone, and you may be experiencing extreme visions before you know it this way. It was preferable to me, when I did it that way, but taking smaller doses over time really allowed me to ease into the effects and see how it worked with my body, but I never got enough in that time to experience a full blown visionary state. I did trip for a good 48 hours, with ataxia, only minor vomiting, and trails and tracers for the entire time.

Taking a large dose of the TA the first time, however, was one of the most powerful life changing experiences, that helped me end a 7 year opiate habit (half of that on methadone), stop smoking cigarettes within 5 months, immediately gave up sweets and sodas, and it gave me lasting will to do better for myself, with regards to all aspects of my life.

May your journey treat you well!
 
GratefulDad
#5 Posted : 2/27/2010 2:12:03 AM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 191
Joined: 13-Sep-2009
Last visit: 25-Nov-2017
Location: Here, Now
Added purification notes from http://www.puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/032899.html

Purification of ibogaine from the total alkaloids.

The total alkaloids from the extraction step is dissolved in ethyl acetate
(minimum) and treated with norite, filtered and evaporated to dryness. The
residue is dissolved in hot ethanol. After chilling for two or three days,
the crude ibogaine is filtered and the filtrate is evaporated to half volume,
chilled for one day and a second crop of ibogaine is collected.

The crude ibogaine is recrystallized from ethanol. This product is dissolved
in toluene and filtered through three times its weight of neutral alumina
(activity 1), and the column washed with toluene. Evaporation of the solvent
crystallization of the residue from ethanol yields a pure sample of ibogaine.

Ibogaine hydrochloride

To a stirred solution of ibogaine in minimum acetone is added aqueous HCl
(1:1) dropwise (excess). The crystalline ibogaine hydrochloride separates
immediately. The product is filtered and washed with acetone. It is
recrystallized from ethanol yielding a white salt.
 
GratefulDad
#6 Posted : 2/27/2010 8:00:53 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 191
Joined: 13-Sep-2009
Last visit: 25-Nov-2017
Location: Here, Now
I have posted the whole extraction a couple times, but I will add it in it's entirety again, with some added notes on purification from an old email from Howard Lotsof at the end.

It also contains even better measurements than the original tek I posted, when it comes to using the acetone and hydrochloric (aka muriatic) acid.

The extra purity for pure ibogaine HCl, may need a couple more supplies, but IMHO, is not needed, unless someone just really wants to be sure and use 98%+ pure ibogaine HCl.

So here it is again:

Okay, new UPDATED tek with added tips:

The Extraction:

What you need: Plain white distilled vinegar, a stainless steel, ceramic, HDPE 2, or non-reactive container, janitorial strength (10%+) non-sudsy ammonia, distilled water, a funnel, coffee filters, old t-shirt, and the iboga bark.

A clear, non-reactive container for performing the extraction helps a lot, when watching the reactions, BTW.

Optional for added purity: Acetone, muriatic acid (28-36% HCl), and Everclear (95% pure ethanol), (maybe anhydrous epsom salts aka magnesium sulfate or anhydrous calcium sulfate, which is not 100% necessary).

1: Take the bark, and make sure it's as fine of a powder as possible.

2: Add enough vinegar to thoroughly cover the bark. A good measurement for the vinegar is about 5 times the amount (volume) of vinegar to the weight of bark.

In this instance 40g of bark times 5 would be about 200 mls of vinegar per soak. One may need slightly more in the first couple extractions to thoroughly cover the bark, and excess can be used safely, however it will lengthen the time of filtering later, so try and keep the volumes minimal.

3: The bark can be stirred occasionally, and left to sit for at least one hour.

Adding heat makes the bark harder to filter, and isn't necessary.

4: After an hour has passed, one needs to filter the bark from the vinegar with a cloth t-shirt. Squeeze out the bark to gather all the vinegar and save this.

The bark is then returned to the container for another soak. This should be done 4 times to be sure to get out all the alkaloids. (One can taste the bark when dried to see if any bitterness remains, however, after 4 soaks, it seemed to remove nearly all the bitterness from the bark for me.)

5: While letting the bark soak again, as in the previous steps, filter the collected vinegar through coffee filters.

This can take a long time to filter, since the coffee filters clog easily, and may need to be replaced often. Have patience though. If you can leave it sitting in the funnel, with a filter, the juice will eventually pass through. This filtering isn't 100% necessary but it will help remove all the finest plant particles from the solution, so the initial extraction will come out cleaner, so it's a good idea, IMO.

6: Once all the vinegar has been collected and filtered through a coffee filter, you have two options.

The first would be to evaporate the vinegar a bit, by using low heat and a fan. Under boiling (do not boil!) is fine to reduce the vinegar, and will make it easier to deal with less liquid. A fan blowing over a heater vent worked well for me. You don't want to evaporate it to thickness, though, just enough to make it easy to work with in a smaller container.

The second option is to skip the evaporation and proceed directly to the next step, which can save time.

7: Once you have all your vinegar collected, and evaporated a good bit, if you choose, you are ready to add the ammonia. You can slowly pour ammonia into the vinegar, to make it basic. pH papers/pens aren't needed, but if used, just make sure the pH is above 10.1. Ibogaine's pKa is 8.1. (from sources on the internet)

As you add the ammonia, the solution will heat slightly, and you will see cloudy precipitate forming. You can add more ammonia, to be sure, as too much won't hurt, it will just add to the amount of solution that needs to be filtered, which can take awhile.

8: Now, if left to settle (can take a few hours), the precipitate (freebase total alkaloids) will sink to the bottom of the container. The majority of the clear solution at the top can be siphoned off, and filtered to be sure no precipitate is in it.

If it looks clear (tea colored, still), not cloudy though, all the precipitate should have sunken to the bottom. By removing a large portion of the upper clear (tea colored) water, this will allow you to have much less solution to filter out your alkaloids.

You can save everything you siphoned off and add more ammonia later, to be sure you got out all the freebase alkaloids, but it didn't seem to make any difference for me.

9: Now you can filter the muddy, alkaloid containing solution through coffee filters.

Filtering this can take a good bit as the precipitate begins to clog the filter, but again, be patient, as the solution will eventually pass through the filter completely. This may take overnight, so don't worry if it takes a long time. Once you have filtered the solution, you can set aside the clear tea colored water for later, to add more ammonia, just to be sure you collected all the precipitate.

10: You should now have a coffee filter with all the brown freebase precipitate stuck to it. You should then add a liberal amount of distilled water to the filter in the funnel. You will THOROUGHLY rinse the precipitate with the distilled water to wash away any extra impurities (ammonium acetate).

Again, waiting for the water to pass through the alkaloid coated coffee filter may take awhile, so just have patience.

11: This precipitate can then be placed in front of a fan with a warm air current, away from UV light, and left to dry.

This is now your crude (estimated from Chris' notes at 40-50% pure) freebase total alkaloid extract. This can be capped when dry and used as is, and should be much cleaner than the simple vinegar extraction. However, for those that want it more pure, there are two options.

First option:

1: Take the filter with the dried crusty precipitate and break up the precipitate to a fine powder. You can use the same filter, or take a new one and place it in a funnel that is plugged (I use a two liter bottle with the bottom cut off for a funnel, so capping the opening can seal it, but a finger may be used). Add the crushed precipitate to the plugged funnel and saturate it with vinegar to dissolve as much as possible.

2: Let the vinegar sit in the filter with the precipitate, maybe stir it around a bit in the filter, then let it drain through, and save the vinegar.

Be careful not to poke a hole in the filter while stirring/agitating.

3: You can repeat with fresh vinegar another time, and collect all the vinegar.

4: Add ammonia to the vinegar again, to precipitate the alkaloids, which should be even cleaner this time.

5: Re-filter out all the alkaloids, rinse thoroughly with distilled water, and let dry as above.

This can now be used as is and should be even cleaner.


Second (more involved) option, for much more pure TA:

Okay so you have your brown precipitate in your coffee filter, now dried up, from the first portion of the extraction.

1: You now, take your acetone and add 15-18 mls of acetone per gram of freebase TA extract (brown freebase powder), and soak freebase in the filter with it. You can stir around the precipitate in the filter (again be careful not to poke a hole in it), and wash it two or three times with the SAME acetone. Do not go over 18 mls per gram of brown TA freebase, but be sure to soak as much color from the solid as possible. The filter should contain any bark crud, and any other impurities, when finished.

This will remove the alkaloids from the solid filtrand (insoluble plant gunk that's left in the filter), since the freebase is soluble in acetone. Chris Jenks says about 50-60% of the crud is left behind as insoluble plant material.

2: Take your muriatic acid (hydrogen chloride in a water solution, aka hydrochloric acid in solution), and add it very slowly, to the acetone. You must do this drop wise, and watch as the precipitate forms. (One milliliter for each six grams of TA) is added in small portions, slowly, until the precipitation of the solid begins.

If you own a pH tester, when the acetone is at pH 6.1, 99% of the ibogaine should be converted to the HCl salt form, and precipitate out, or be caught in the tiny amount of water that the HCl is mixed with (with 1 ml of muriatic acid, the water is negligible). This can be filtered out, and the tiny bit of water separated, and left to evaporate to be sure to recover all the iboga alkaloid HCl salts (wasn't necessary for me).

Adding too much acid with water can start to redissolve the iboga TA HCl. You can add a few drops at a time, and watch as the precipitate forms. When it stops forming, you can place this into the fridge, to chill for a few hours (overnight may be better), before filtering, and this will increase the yield.

3: Filter out the iboga PTA HCl.

This is nearly pure TA HCl, but there may be a bit left in the acetone, and other residual alkaloids will also be in the acetone.

You can evaporate some of the acetone with a fan and low heat (no flames please), then remove any acidic water from the acetone, and let it evaporate to collect anything there. (Drying the acetone with anhydrous epsom salts, aka magnesium sulfate, or anhydrous calcium sulfate, then filtering them out by pouring the acetone through a coffee filter can be done instead of separating and evaporating any extra water but doesn't increase the yield much, according to Chris.)

Then treat the reduced (possibly dried) acetone with the muriatic acid again (a drop or two), and harvest any more crystals of iboga PTA HCl that precipitates. Filter it out as well and add it to the first precipitate.

Another option would be to gas HCl acid though the acetone to precipitate the iboga PTA HCl crystals, but this can be covered later, if anyone is really interested. I haven't tried this with ibogaine HCl, but am pretty sure it'd work fine, although it is more difficult and requires a few more supplies.

4: If you would like pure ibogaine HCl, without the other alkaloids, you can take the iboga TA HCl crystals, and dissolve it in boiling ethanol.

The boiling ethanol should be added drop wise, just until all the ibogaine HCl has dissolved.

5: This ethanol solution is then left to cool in the fridge and the ibogaine will recrystallize.

This will make the ibogaine HCl form much more pure crystals and can remove some of the ibogamine/ibogaline if still present in the precipitate.

It is not necessary unless going for 98%+ purity, and repeated recrystallization can yield very pure ibogaine HCl, but can cost a bit of yield. The ibogaline and ibogamine have very similar action as ibogaine and may also provide similar effects, so are fine for using for a session.

(There are more added notes below for those chemistry nuts that want PURE ibogaine HCl.)

When this is dry, it is ready to take.

6: For those who want to recover all the alkaloids, so they can take a complete total alkaloid extract (or Purified Total Active Alkaloid extract, aka PTAA) of high purity, they should take the acetone that they salted/precipitated out the ibogaine HCl, and evaporate it in front of a fan with warm air current.

The resulting leftover alkaloids will be an unstable oil.

7: Dissolve this oil in distilled water.

8: Add ammonia to this water with the oil dissolved into it.

You will again see the freebase residual alkaloids precipitate out of the water/ammonia solution.

9: Filter out the freebase alkaloids, and rinse again thoroughly with distilled water.

10: Let the freebase residual alkaloids dry completely.

You can then add your freebase residual alkaloids to your PTA HCls, and capsulize it. Freebases will be converted to the HCl salts in your stomach, so turning them into the HCl salt before ingesting is probably unnecessary.

This Purified Total Alkaloid extract, or PTA, should be considered very pure, and a 15-20 mg/kg dose of this (mainly for addiction treatment at this level) is just as powerful, if not more so, as the pure ibogaine HCl, so estimate your dosage with this extract accordingly. This is powerful medicine and going higher than 25 mg/kg could cause complications, so don't be a hero. This also lasts in the system for months, so it's recommended not to take another flood dose within 60-90 days minimum, to be safe.

This is optional and has not been tried by myself, so if Chris or anyone out there thinks there are any updates, more details, or improvements, please feel free to add them, as the final purification to pure ibogaine HCl, was not my goal, just a much more pure TA.

Further purification notes, for those wanting pure ibogaine HCl, without the added alkaloids, from here: http://www.puzzlepiece.org/ibogaine/032899.html

Purification of ibogaine from the total alkaloids.

The total alkaloids from the extraction step is dissolved in ethyl acetate
(minimum) and treated with norite (measurements anyone?), filtered and evaporated to dryness. The residue is dissolved in hot ethanol. After chilling for two or three days, the crude ibogaine is filtered and the filtrate is evaporated to half volume, chilled for one day and a second crop of ibogaine is collected.

The crude ibogaine is recrystallized from ethanol. This product is dissolved in toluene and filtered through three times its weight of neutral alumina (activity 1), and the column washed with toluene. Evaporation of the solvent crystallization of the residue from ethanol yields a pure sample of ibogaine.

Ibogaine hydrochloride

To a stirred solution of ibogaine in minimum acetone is added aqueous HCl
(1:1) dropwise (excess). The crystalline ibogaine hydrochloride separates
immediately. The product is filtered and washed with acetone. It is
recrystallized from ethanol yielding a white salt.

Extra tips:

Norite: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norite

Ethyl Acetate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate

Also, this further purification requires a chromatography column, neutral alumina to pack the column, and toluene, so it may be a bit more difficult for the kitchen chemist without the proper tools.. It also lacks measurements, and details, so I'd need to play around to find them myself.

Honestly, the added purification is not really needed, especially if one only wants a Purified TA or PTAA. It is only necessary if 98%+ pure ibogaine HCl is desired.

BTW, freebase TA is total alkaloids (actually the ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine and residual alkaloids), PTA is purified total alkaloids (ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine in HCl salts), PTAA is purified total active alkaloids (all active alkaloids from tabernanthe iboga including, but not limited to, ibogaine, ibogaline, ibogamine, tabernanthine, (?), in HCl salt and freebase mix).

Hope this has everything anyone needs, but I can help out if anyone has any questions, up to the further purification, as I don't have a chromatography column, and didn't have enough bark to waste any of the extra alkaloids from the root bark.

I haven't tried to extract pure ibogaine HCl since the PTA/PTAA that comes out, looks plenty clean, removes all the plant material, makes the dosage easy to calculate, and may be easier on sensitive stomachs, although nausea is still common with even the pure alkaloids.

I have read that the pure ibogaine HCl is even more gentle on the stomach, but haven't had the experience myself, so I can't give a personal account.

If any experts out there have any critiques for the updated tek, please feel free to add whatever you can. Big thanks to Chris Jenks!! Also, thanks to panoramix over at the dmt-nexus.me for helping add some measurements for the purification.

I've tried to make this as clear and detailed as possible, and watching Chris' presentation from the ibogaine conference can help with pictures, for those who are visual learners..

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/4730969 (This one has the extraction by Chris Jenks, with pictures and his description. He starts 1:00:00 in, but plenty of good info before hand.)

Best of luck to everyone, and please use this with utmost respect and responsibility, as we don't need to lose ANYONE (else) with this medicine!

Okay, that is the final draft as of now. I hope that incorporates any of the things that Chris brought up, and I hope it is more clear in each step with better terminology.

I will explain later how to make a little contraption to bubble HCl gas through the acetone to precipitate the iboga alkaloid HCl's without having any water, which might improve purity and yield from the start, but this will be when I can get around to finding more time to type it up in a decent manner.



Also, in a side note from another email from Chris he adds, quote:

I took a portion of the acetone that would have been used in the extraction of the TA and added the proper amount of HCl solution to it (determined by previous runs) and then dried the solution with anhydrous calcium sulfate. The dried solution of HCl in acetone was then used to acidify the acetone extract of TA. The yield was 38% of PTA HCl from TA, compared with an average yield of 37% for the previous nine runs, so there was no significant improvement by removing the water.

Also, if you are trying to make TAA, you shouldn't have to be so careful with the measurements of acetone and HCl, as long as you use enough acetone to extract the TA completely, and enough HCl to acidify the extract. Instead of filtering out the PTA HCl you could just evaporate the acetone and continue as usual in making RA, which is this case would give homogeneous TAA base.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
Users browsing this forum
Guest

DMT-Nexus theme created by The Traveler
This page was generated in 0.122 seconds.