We've Moved! Visit our NEW FORUM to join the latest discussions. This is an archive of our previous conversations...

You can find the login page for the old forum here.
CHATPRIVACYDONATELOGINREGISTER
DMT-Nexus
FAQWIKIHEALTH & SAFETYARTATTITUDEACTIVE TOPICS
LSA/Ergotamine extraction TEK + Planting high alkaloid content + more Options
 
Smoker root
#1 Posted : 9/22/2019 11:24:33 PM

DMT-Nexus member


Posts: 76
Joined: 17-Jan-2019
Last visit: 18-Jan-2022
DISCLAIMER: As I mention a lot of times in the write ups this is not supposed to be a bulk TEK, however, it can work in large amounts. Obiously, not in an amount of say 5 pounds of material to procces. If this same TEK was to be use in a large scale(100 pounds) it would to be adjusted. This is not a good write up, I plan on wirting a better one

Hi, I want to make a write up of this incredible TEK that is rarely mention and find incredibly usefull. This TEK is extensivly used by LSD alchemist to extract their amine(LSA or Ergotamine) in large amounts, of course it can be aplied to small amounts. I don't intend to tell people this is a bulk extraction, it can be used to extract any quantity. LSD chemist also like this extraction since it gives a reasonable yield with high purity, aldo SWIM is planning on recristalizing on ethanol. There is another way SWIM knows to extract purer product that is mainly used in Europe, this one uses magnesia as freebasing agent in a solvent of ethyl ether or benzene, this one is not pretty easy since magnesia has to be growned up and for large amounts it is unpractical and with the other method for SWIM is better. So the method I am going to teach you we are going to use amonium hidroxide as freebasing agent in a solvent of cloroform, I SWIM calls it the USP method. However, we have to talk about somethings before continuing before jumping into the TEK.

Basic precautions

Let's not forgot we are working in LSD chemistry now and aldo this is a pretty easy procedure for an amateur chemist it should be still noted that some precautions must be taken in order to make sure we are succesfull. Our final product is very estable inside the plant material. But once we pulverize it, it is very vulnerable to light and heat, there is also the risk of the product degrading in a short period of time. To protect against light we should work under a red or yellow photographic light and away from an UV exposure. To protect from heat it is important to not heat anything above 40C. How to prevent the degradation of the product will be covered in the section of the TEK "Conservation" however it is not recomended to store it for a long time. It must also be noted that being quick in extracting the goods is important to avoid spoiling the product.

After covering how to make sure the product is safe during the extraction, it is important to keep the alchemist safe. The LD50 of ergot is around 100mg/kg in a rabbit and for LSA 16mg/kg on a Guinea Pig. There is no data on human animals, but one can conclude something, if working with large amounts of seeds or ergot one could be risking his life if care is not taken. If you plan on extracting LSA from mlre than 64 HWBR seeds(1mg per 4) he is alredy asuming a big risk of LSA poisoning. That is why LSD chemistry is only practiced by the experienced, a drop of concentrated LSA down your throat is really dangerous. However, that won't ruin our fun, we just need to be carefull. Protecting ourselfs with thick gloves, lab suit, goggles and respirator protection is essential. For more details on the protection used I recomend you read the MSDS of LSA, the protective measurements part especially, every care taken there applais to ergotamine.

Solvent care

Dealing with excesives amounts of solvent is quite difficult, from obtaining to siposing it. But there is one key, reuse recycle. After the defatting step you can distill the solvent from the fat and have new fresh solvent, it is very easy. I am not going to go in depth on how to obtain solvent, it is against the rules :o , but in order to dispose it is to call a waste company instead of stick it underground. On a small base it is not much of a problem, but when working with big quantities of solvent this tips gain importance. Something that is crucial too succed is to make sure the solvent is pure, for checking it we simply make an evaporation test. For that we simply heat(on the microwave for example) a piece of glass(microscope slide) and drop some solvent in it. If it is pure it will leave no resediue. If it leaves re-distill the solvent or buy a new one.

Materials And Ingredients

Solvent(nafta, hexane, petroleum ether or ligroine) It would be needed around 5 times more solvent compared to the weight of the plant material(Ex:28g of seeds would need roughly 140g of solvent) Aldo have more on hand just in case.

Amonium Hydroxide 100ml usually. More detail later

Cloroform 900ml usually. More details later. Aldo we will need some more.

3% Tartaric acid. Not very much around 10mg per 100mg of product to disolve in

Saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, not much to be said.

Vacuum Desecator. This is used to evaporate liquids dry without heating anything over 40C. There might be other options, but I think a small vacum desicator using some jars and syringes is something cheap and easy to build. Good enough for small scale experiments.

1500ml-2000ml Separatory funnel. To create the extraction solvent. A smaller one might come on handy when extracting the tartaric acid solution, aldo a syringe might work.

A small sep funnel 100ml will work

Cromatography colum. To defat the seeds or ergot

Basic glassware(Beakers or similar and mesuaring cilinders. Also a scale)

Eye droper. To disolve the product in the tartaric acis

A flat glass piece. Like a microscope slide for example.

Let's beguin!

First step: Powdering

We start by powdering the seeds/ergot. A blender should do it. I found that powdering seeds is very difficult do to dampness. The way too go is to grind a bit the seeds and air dry them, then powder them completly. Once the plant material is powdered our product will degrade quickly,so we have to move quickly. Now we will cover the powder with the deffating solvent to form a slurry, like a soup. There are a variety of solvents to choose, nafta, hexane, petroleum ether or ligroine. They all work equally well.

Second step: Deffating

Now we are going to prepare ourselfs to defat. We will prepare the cromatography colum and pack our slurry in it. We will atach a separatory funnel(Or similar) on top, and we start dropping the solvent in which the seeds are covered in through the chromatography colum for some hours. The idea is for the solvent to carry away any oils or fats remaining in the plant material. We should check periodically for this by doing an evaporating test(See solvent care)

Third Step: Extracting

The third step is the most controversial but the most fun. We pack in our big sep. funnel we pack 100ml of amonium hydroxide and 900ml of cloroform. Then we shake vigorously and collect the botom cloroform layer, this will be our extraction mixture. We could do more or less extraction mixture we just have to keep the ratio of cloroform to amonium hydroxide 9:1
Then we pack the mixture like before in a separatory funel(Or similar) above the cromatography colum and start dripping extraction mixture through the column. This will get all the goods out. We will do this until what comes through the colum does not glow under black light, that will indicate that there are no remaining alkaloids in the plant material. Now we have a mixture of lysergic kind alkaloids in our extraction mixture and for so we will change our pure alkaloids to the tartare salt and further purify.

Fourth Step: Change To Tartare

We will first evaporate our extracts, and we will do this under vacuum in order to avoid heating over 40C(and burning our product) or exposing it to light. We are evaporating to drynes to have all the impurities mixed with LSA or Ergotamine. Once we have a solid extract we will re-disolve it in the least quantity of tartaric acid(3%) This will change the freebase alkaloids to the tartare salt. Now, after disolving in tartaric acid we can actually know how much product we will obtain. We can aproximately know the amount of moles present by coloring the solution with an acid-base indicator and titrating with this acid. However, if you don't want to know you can just proceed directly to the next step. We will transfer our tartaric acid solution to our small sep. funnel(In small quantities a syringe might be better option) rinsing the flask were we had our solution with some tartaric acid(3%) Now we will make the solution basic with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution. Then we will simply extract with two equal volumes of cloroform. We combine the two cloroform extracts, we evaporate to dryness using a vacum. Yielding nice LSA or Ergotamine in a reasonable purity.

Storage of LSA

We can simply store the LSA in ethanol with anti-oxidants(Fumaric acid, for example) when we want to use it we just evaporate it and use it. However, it is essential to store it in cool temperatures. This will provide a long self-life. However, it is recommended to use it as quickly as possible. To store ergotamine we will simply store it in the freezer, Ergotamine won't last for too long in this conditions, but I can't think of other way.

Dosage and Usage

First of all I don't encourage anybody too use it. And the dosages are based on the theory, and not have been tested. Anyway I can't think of any reason to selfmedicate with this substance. I see more future on using it as a precursor for LSD, but I will make this section anyway.

The dosage I think is right is of 1mg. This is supported because, 4 seeds of Hawaian Baby Wood Rose makes an ideal dosage for a trip. Each of this seeds contain 250aug of LSA. So 1mg would be enough for the trip, using the same rule we can figure out the dosage of pure LSA based on how the trip with seeds went.

The dosage for ergotamine, should be thesm same. Based on Ergotamine content in Cafergot.

My advise for tacking them is putting the goods in sugar cubes like with LSD. This information is basically useless if we focus only in the amines but could be useful if someone where to distribute LSD, so I am writing it anyway. I am not going into a lot of detail, just enough so one can know. First, the alchemist will choose an instrument like a burete 10ml from where drip the LSA/Ergotamine solution to the cubes(we will discuss it later) For an amateur a burete might be expending too much money for something like that, and I can understand that, one could change the burete for a 10ml syringe. Note, this change would make the dosage less accuarate. But anyway, the first thing to do is to discover how many drops the burete/syringe will give. In my old lab I had one that gave 188 drops per 10ml, this means each drop is around 0.532ml. Of course this would change depending on the surface tension of the liquid and many other things. When we will found how much is a drop, we will just dissolve our dose in that quantity of solvent, and drip a drop into a cube. This is why I said it is not as usefull for LSA/Ergotamine, since 1mg to dissolve 0.532ml it is a lot, while 100aug(per say) it is more easy. If 1mg does not dissolve in one drop then just go for 2 drops per mg. But now, a question raises. What solvent to chose? For LSD I would recommend methanol, for LSA ethanol, but I am still wondering which could be for ergotamine.

LSA plants cultivation

II would love to give also the ergot cultivation guide, but I haave not get my way around it yet, I will try to include it soon. And to start I must quote the book “Growing the Hallucinogens”
“Hawain Baby Woodrose may be grown outdoors in southern California and Florida.
Elsewhere it should be grown in a large pot or tub outdoors in the summer, brought indoors in winter. It may be propagated by cuttings or seeds, and in the spring by division. The seed may be sprouted by making a small nick in the seedcoat away from the germ eye. Soak the seed until it swells. Plant 0.5 inch deep in loose rich soil. Do not use
bottom heat. After the cotyledons
appear, water sparingly, letting the soil surface dry out to a depth of 0.5 inch. Over-watering
causes stem and root rot. The plant grows slowly until it develops a half-dozen leaves; after this it grows quickly. In its first year this plant grows into a small bush 1 to 2 feet tall. During this time it may be grown in a large pot and kept indoors in winter. The next spring it will grow into a very large vine and should produce flowers and seeds. In this second year it should be planted out, or grown in a tub. In cold-winter areas the roots should be lifted and stored or the tub kept in a cool place until spring”
And for the cultivation of mornin glories I cite this text from the same source “Cultivation and Propagation: Although this species is a perennial it is usually cultivated as an annual in this country. Morning glories thrive in a strong, well-drained soil in a sunny site with plenty of water, but they will do well almost anywhere. The seeds have a hard seedcoat and should be nicked or soaked two hours in warm water before sowing. If the seeds are nicked and soaked, the vines will generally flower 6 weeks after sowing. The seeds should be planted 0.25 to 0.5 inch deep and not less than 6 inches apart. This species tends to run to vine unless the roots are cramped. This may be done by standing the vines in pots and allowing them to become slightly potbound before setting them out. Although morning glories like a lot of water, if the roots are kept damp constantly, the vines will produce few flowers and they will set very little seed.”
I personally prefer planting Hawain Baby Woodrose, even the name sounds better. However there is a clear benefit on planting Morning Glories, and it is the fact that the alkaloid content in the seeds can be increased. We can make seeds have 16 times more alkaloid content than regular seeds. However, it must be noted that not all strains of morning glories produce our wanted alakloids, use only Heavenly Blue, Pearly Gates, Flying Saucers, Summer Skies, Wedding Bells or Blue Starr varieties…
For highest alkaloid production the soil should have a pH factor of about 6.5, a low potassium and high phosphate content. This can be checked with a soil test kit available at most nurseries or from Sears. A high phosphate content increases the formation of indole alkaloids. Low concentrations of potassium (approximately 1.5 per 100 parts dry soil) assists free tryptophan accumulation and biosynthesis and produces low indoleacetic acid content resulting in increased formation of indole alkaloids. To balance soil in this manner use sodium nitrate as a nitrogen source instead of potassium nitrate. For phosphate content use sodium acid
phosphate instead of potassium acid phosphate. Hormones also have a beneficial effect on alkaloid production in morning glories. Prepare a solution of 1 ggibberellic acid in 1 liter
distilled water. When the plants are in the seedling stage place a few drops of this solution on the soil around each plant before watering. Repeat this procedure once every two weeks increasing the amount as the vine grows until the plant achieves full growth.
At this time the dosage of gibberellic acid solution should be up to '? oz. per plant. Although this hormone stimulates growth and alkaloid formation it also delays maturity and inhibits the
production of flowers and seeds. Its use must be discontinued a few weeks before normal flowering time.
Gibberellic acid is available from chemical companies for about $5 per gram. If it cannot be obtained as a raw chemical there are several products available which contain this hormone.
Another type of hormone that increases alkaloid yield is alpha naphthalene acetic acid or any similar growth inhibiting auxins.
Notes:
1) English is not my first language, and it is bad. This write up is not defenite and has a lot of mistakes, furthermore it was done in one sitting. Support from the alchemists of the forum would be greatly thanked
2) I found another paper that made the same extraction solvent but changing the recepie a little. In the paper 10ml of strong ammonia solution (28% NH3OH; 56% NHtOH), 90ml of methanol and 900ml of chloroform were mixed. This won’t give a two layer separation, but an omogenus mixture. I think this option is worth trying since the use of ammonia is less than the recepie I give here
3) I have seen people air dry solvents in this kind of cases and giving good yields, I might be a bit paranoic Razz
4) I will try and run theTEK and give pics, but I don' own a chomatography column and most solvents listed in the deffating are incredibly rare to find OTC in my country(but not in USA, don't worry Very happy)
5) A shorten up version has been uploaded
 

STS is a community for people interested in growing, preserving and researching botanical species, particularly those with remarkable therapeutic and/or psychoactive properties.
 
 
Users browsing this forum
Guest

DMT-Nexus theme created by The Traveler
This page was generated in 0.042 seconds.