Hello all
I am having problems extracting from Acacia Rasberry Jam wattle Bark as all goes well until taking out of freezer either12 /24 or 48 hrs later.

Plate and or jar looks great with parts on bottom of platethen while drying all evaporates or leaves liquid.
I am using Shellite for Naptha this is so frustrating any help advice would be appreciated.

I live in Perth Western Australia.
Cheers.

What extraction process are you using? Which part of the plant? How much plant material? Why do you say the plate/jar looks great with "parts on bottom" (are you seeing xtals)? How exactly are you evaporating the solvent (do you decant first)?

Hi
Using approx 50gr of bark
In 500ml of Distilled water
Then mix well add 50gr of Caustic Soda
Mix shake stir every 10m for 1hour
Add 50ml of Shellite again shake stir well then allow to sit for 1 hour

Use Pipette to draw up Shellite then cover
Place in Freezer over night min 12 hours
But have left for 24/36/48 + hours.

White particles on bottom of tray drain
Excess Shellite then allow to dry.

Have previously drained into Coffee filter
But either way I end up with SFA.

I am 70 and not sharpest tool in shed

Appreciate your response as I am new to
This and can't afford to buy.

Cheers

I have used Bark Root Leaves & Flower

I mean I watched YouTube and saw they
Had similar white particles on base of
Pyrex dish.

I am obviously doing something wrong but
I even went without and purchased Bark
From eBay but again all looked great
Then bye bye fresh air.

What is the room temperature when evaporating? If warm, it can turn the xtals into oil.

I think you may have not waited long enough during the basing step. Your DMT may be dilute in the solvent. Acacia oils may be another issue, IDK.

Do you still have the basified bark solution? You can try pulling again after time has passed, see if you get more bulk xtals. Re-use the decanted naphtha. After pulling, evaporate this until cloudy before freezing. Maybe that crashes more DMT which will survive the final evap as xtals. Make sure you decant well, keep the plate tilted in the same direction so any naphtha sticking to the walls doesn't wash back over the product mixing it with possible plant oils.

If you have a pressure cooker you can try this if starting with plant material again.

A lot of people recommend defatting with acacia acuminata. Check on specific posts about that plant.

That's what I would do. Can't guarantee it will work. Good luck.

Ok great until will try this out.

Originally I was heating under hot water tap
for 1 hour turning mixing every 5 to 10 min
Then same for Naptha be we for 30 min
then allow to sit for 1 hour.

Everything has always looked good until
It vanishes or like you said I did have some oil
Residue left but very rarely.

I will keep trying and reading up as I
really want this too work.
I don't have a pressure cooker but it seems
I need to look into Defatting of the Acacia.

Thanks for your advice I really appreciate it.

Cheers.

You may just be seeing ice crystals from the freezing stage. What kind of cover are you using on your freezer dish?

Hi Yoyada69,
Acuminata is a bit tricker to get good yields out off, everyone in Oz seems to have slight variations to one another when extracting.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but it sounds like condensation may be getting in and absorbing the crystals once removed form the freezer just be patient and let it evaporate near a fan once removed from the freezer.

Acuminata is oily and I find shelite to be inconsistent, so what also may have happened is that you've extracted crystals and oil (often if using room temperature shelite this is very clear oil but loaded with DMT). If you're confident it's clear of condensation from the freezer and there's no water scrape it back and fourth with a razor blade, really work it. The oil will mix with the crystals and it'll go from clear colour to white. Sometime it'll harden to a powder, sometime a wax other times an oil (if its oily make changa). It may also be a yellowy white or slight orange color depending if you heated the shelite in a warm water bath or extracted at room temperature.

Biggest thing with Acuminata is to base the absolute fuck out of it with caustic soda. If you're getting emulsion add more caustic (don't bother with back salting) just keep going with caustic soda. This will bring the emulsion to nothing and if it does occur it'll settle much quicker. Now by doing this you can shake the shit out of it to get that shelite to contact all the DMT, really go nuts on shaking it. Then let it settle then extact. This often increases yields with Acuminata alot mate. But be cautious with ya shakes at first if you see some emulsion thats not clearing quick enough add more caustic soda. Then go nuts.

The other thing i would suggest for really increasing yields is to, use shelite to get some clean crystals after 4 or so pulls then switch to xylene (its a very heavy odor so keep that in mind) do a few pulls with xylene after the shelite and evaporate the xylene or salt the DMT out. If ya new to this I suggest just evaporate the xylene. The DMT for xylene will be an orange oily color and may solidify but may not (again use it for changa). This will be loaded with DMT and should more than double ya yield. Xylene pulls a lot more than shelite but it also pulls a little more oils.

Shelite just isn't very consistent, I don't know why. Acuminata oil content can vary a bit between narrow leaf and broad leaf too so it all affects the yields.

You can always re-x the oily dmt pulls.

Coffee filter isn't necessary. And an acid cook might help (microwave works well to speed this up for Acuminata).

This i am 100% sure is a shellite probelm.. I have had the same result with several types of acacia over the past 4 years. the beads of moisture left over is in fact dmt do not throw it out (assuming you are using a good strain of acuminata).. .. dissolve in vinegar, rebase and pull with another solvent like xylene or toluene. Bunnings shellite no longer yields good crystal .. why I do not know but it has changed. When you freeze precip you'll see crystals forming and then when you pour off the shellite and attempt to dry they will turn into moistyure beads and you will likely assume its just water and throw it out.. its not water .. it usually is dmt..shellite just does something wierd to it. Use xylene toluene or DCM..

the reason for acuminata having variable yields too is that there are many more varieties than is acknowledged generally.. its widely distributed here in WA but it changes area to area taxnonomically and yield-wise. Some areas are very high yielding.. some are not. All sorts of factors could contribute to this.. you will usually get something out of it though

Good point, the crystalization can change a lot with the solvent. The solvent being used could be helping pi-pi bonds aromatic stacking between DMT molecules. We think this results in goo. Experientially, a warm water vitamin C acid step (~158F) is a good way to break up this stacking, even for the most stubborn goo. Other acids can also work.

There are other ways to get goo. It could be naturally present in the plant to begin with. Acacias could have more DMT in goo form vs MHRB. It can also form during the basing step. Since the OP did a STB there was no natural goo breakup, so that could be another issue, even if using a suitable solvent.

In short, there are many ways to get goo: DMT seems to like to self interact and aggregate with pi bonds between aromatic rings if given the chance. There seem to be several degrees aggregation with the color changing as aggregation increases (yellow to orange to even red). To avoid aggregation and get crystals some care is needed.

Wow Bloody hell thanks for replies

Pension day tomoz my last chance haha.
I tried again and yes Yellow oil which I got rid of yesterday
As got sick of seeing it sitting there.
Not game to try Something I don't know what it is
at this stage of life, 9 years having the
Big C has slowed me a little.

Will try xy instead of shitite and Gunna try the pressure
Cooker as well.

I purchased 2 Pyrex dishes with the plastic lids??

I couldn't remember the forum or password but I think I remember now
Ha ha bloody hopeless.

Cheers and huge respect for all your knowledge as I need it.

Well getting ready for another crack at this

I liked the idea of the pressure cooker as
May as well get most out of products

What I couldn't fully understand was the first stage
So I don't use Caustic Soda just put Water with 200 gr bark

I will also have a crack of shaking the fuck out of
Solution with Acid added.

Buying P C and Xylone tomoz.
Thanks for all replies as want this too work
Very much Appreciated Cheers

Don't cook anything with caustic soda, I would imagine there may be some potentially hazardous fumes but more so it'll destroy the DMT.

Once caustic soda is added to your bark the DMT becomes Freebase DMT which is easily destroyed with heat.

You can acid cook the bark first or just water cook it. You can use a PC, microwave or stove top for this step which is usually the first step. But afterwards (and after it has cooled) you'll have to base it with caustic soda and then pull with xylene.

Alternatively you can go straight to base and just base the bark with caustic soda (and water obviously). Leave for a day or three and then pull with xylene.

Only shake the xylene and 'bark base mix' (caustic soda mix), add excess caustic soda should help with emulsion. There's no need to shake the acidified bark in the first step just cook it.

Do a few pulls with the xylene and make sure its evaporated fully. Your DMT will be oily though with xylene. But as Acacian and I have pointed out xylene (or toulene) is better than shelite also easy to buy.

Loveall makes good points about reducing goo and I would be keen to adapt vitamin C into a cook but to keep it simple what has been already outlined should be your go to for first few cooks.

I hope that hasn't confused you.

It can take many 'cooks' to learn what works for you.

For the pressure cooker run, I would copy what Northerner did,

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=898457#post898457

If you don't have a pH meter, using water and a dash of vinegar should be ok.

Not sure how I missed this but didn't realise you were doing STB extraction.. STB is known to work very poorly with acacia.. why I am not exactly sure but you will probably get better results doing an acid to base extraction.. with australian acacia this seems to be the general consensus

Try:

Boiling/simmering dried and ground phyllodes in ph4-5 water .. after one hour strain off liquid and put aside.. add more acidic water to your phyllodes and boil again, after a few boils combine your liquids, strain meticulously (coffee filter, oil filter or cotton buds work well) and reduce to a workable amount .. discard your phyllodes

After reducing solution, strain one more time. At this point, you can optionally defat or "clean" your solution of impurities that may contribute to an oily or gooey end product. This is done by adding a small amount of your extraction solvent while your solution is still acidic. Miox well, separate and discard solvent. Usually if your solvent is pulling anything substantial it will go yellow.. if not then don't bother giving too much time on this step.

Add a small amount of caustic soda to 150ml of water and stir in until dissolved. Add this basic liquid to your acacia solution. mix well.. at this point if there's a reasonable amount of alkaloids you should see them precipitate out of the solution. Allow 15 minutes for this reaction to fully take place. Now add your extraction solvent.. mix well.. separate and put aside. Add more and repeat 2 or 3 times total. Evaporate solvent.. you will be left with anything from a yellow oil to a white to yellow crystaline product.

Before using your solvent, try evaporating some in a dish and see if it leaves residue.. you don't want to be inhaling vapours from an extract with solvent impurities!

I can see from your posts that you are new to the world of extraction and acacia.. I would take a bit of time to familiarize yourself with the steps and also with acacia in general before proceeding further. They are a vast genus and some trees behave differently to others during extraction.. if you understand the core principles at play with extraction you can then modify your method to accommodate for any nuances that different plant sources introduce into the equation.. You have probably thrown out a perfectly good DMT extract.. oily dmt extracts are all too common.. if you throw your extracts out based on appearance you are probably throwing away a lot of dmt

It could be because natural DMT in acacias comes in an aggregated from. If DMT comes close to itself, the indole rings can attrack each other (weak pi bond stacking perhaps).

A long acid heated bath could break up this aggregation.

Just a theory/possibility. Don't have much hard data.