greetings earthlings!

i recently ran into a problem and was hoping to get some help here:

after succeeding an extraction of great white x-tals (using lazyman's tech) with approx 120 gms MHRB, i decided to try the same method with about 400 gms MHRB.

somehow, this time the naphtha refused to separate - as if it got stuck inside the soup, forcing me to heat the soup and mix in more solvent than previously needed just to get a thin layer on top.
after evap, the remaining sediment was far from crystal-like. it was yellow and sand-looking with redddish-brown incrustations, and very oily.

i tried dissolving the grains in warm naphtha again, but got the same yellow micro stones after evap.

i have not tried consumption yet, but it just does not seem right.

any thoughts on what could've happened there and how i could go from yellow sand to white crystals?

much obliged

no idea wot happened but i had a similar thing where my naphtha would not seperate, i had to put in another 100ml an heat a lil then i managed to extract both 200ml the next time round. my naphtha is now a really dark orange colour an im assuming my crystals will be similar aswell, im sure the dark colour is due to too much heat an mixing as i just changed my solvent its still naphtha but is low odour an seems a bit lighter, its the bartoline white spirit stuff from b&q(UK) its been used before by many others on here. i was using special artists white spirit( tried an tested on another forum) which gave a clearer only yellow tinted colour to it but this was much stinkier an heavier stuff it seems,
dunno why it wouldnt seperate i thought at first it all evaped off cos if the heat but then i managed to pull it all when i added more. bit strange.
net time il use less heat an see if that makes it any better.
my tek was the tryptoTek(stb) i think its called, very simple tek an takes a few hours.
the only thing i could see when i did the first pull was this odd swirly looking film sitting on top of the mix this poured off easily but also didnt seem like it was naphtha as it behaved differently when i poured it off. again im pretty sure its not my solvent.

also i think a mini A/B on your crystals is wots needed to seperate it an get them nice an clean. ive just looked into this for the past hour or so to try to fix the dark colour solvent i just pulled, an wot i could find is that it needs converting back using vinegar/acid then you basify again to convert back to freebase (i think) and do a pull using fresh solvent, freeze precipitate an you should have a cleaner end product, there is another way but the mini a/b seems the easiest, one poster said he was able to freeze the dark solvent for 20 mins an most of the yellow/red gunk would have already started to fall out an stick on the bottom so you can pour off the rest of the solvent into another jar etc an the crystals will be cleaner aswell. you will still have a small amount of dmt in the gunk your separating as a small amount will have started to fall out, i dunno how much this would be an if its worth saving tho.
heres a link to the main thread i was reading earlier, hopefully it helps you out a bit

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=12636

My guess GlobalPredictor is that you could be describing some DMT N-oxide. If you heated (when you say heated, what temperature, and what source of heat?) your 'soup', it could've possibly formed. I don't think N-oxide is supposed to be able to very soluble in naphtha though, which would mean that it could also be plant oils or something.

no such thing.

you need more lye, a pinch of salt, or a subwoofer. the sandy shit is base liquid contamination. heating the emulsifiedsolvent makes it pick up tooons of color. take all you super dirty spice, put it in a jar with100ml of water+NaOH andsolvent. mixed. pullsolvent. should be problem solved.

Thanx Oz, but it don't seem 2 work:
while the dirty spice gets dissolved fine in H2O+NaOH with dirty brownish bits floating @ the top, the added solvent then picks up the yellow color again and appears milky golden when separated. i'll evap this one and try to clean the dirt from inside the H2O+NaOH before adding solvent next time, but if you have any other ideas, plz shoot

you cannot prevent naphtha from pickign up the yellow contam without hard work. milky means(most times) that the solution is saturated with dmt. if the solvent is yellow/white opaque then i bet it will be rather nice when dried.

you didnt use shit plastic anywhere did you? i once had the foam seal in the lids of a jug dissolve into the NP-solvent

how much lye/bark did you use? was your NaOH fresh? is the solvent you are using stoddard/odorless mineral solvent? if so it will pull odd things. and maybe not evap 100%

whats "shit plastic"?

[/quote] how much lye/bark did you use?[/quote]
lye= approx 500 gms/ bark = 380 gms
[/quote] was your NaOH fresh?[/quote]yes
[/quote] is the solvent you are using stoddard/odorless mineral solvent? if so it will pull odd things. and maybe not evap 100%[/quote]

i used "white spirit" (this is a FRENCH product, so i dunno if it has equivalents in US/UK etc..., but it seems to be correct)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits

id look for a new solvent. i used to use this but there is too high a chance of the heavy hydrocarbons becoming integrated into the crystal lattice. also it doesn't evap 100% at room temp. heating is needed which is sketchy.

shit plastic being anything other than high density polyethylene, hdpe, [2], dunno how it is labeled in EU.

you have a big subwoofer/bass speaker in your house? some good vibrations may help.

ive lost about 400ml of white spirit into 1gal of base liquid when i boiled it. it became indistinguishable for about 12hrs.

you say soup. how much water did you use?

GP,
look up the MSDS for the solvent used (brand? ingredients?) and also do an evap test - does it evap CLEAN? If not, the spice is contaminated.
SWIY might try freeze precip of the milky yellow solvent. Milky yellow is a good sign.
This should yield clean re-crystallization above a dirtier, oilier layer. SWIM has had good results.

1) cool to room temp 2) fridge for ~ 1 hr 3) in freezer for ~24 hrs 4) crystals are clearly visible - decant solvent (crystals should stick to the glass) and save, do another pull on the basic H2O and repeat. Dry product COMPLETELY.
Good luck,
L

You can try and put it on a running washing machine. It worked out twice for me in cactus extraction emulsions. It had been totally separated when the program was finished.

even if the evap test is clear, make sure there is not a minute amount of clear liuid left. make sure to view the sample at an angle.

regardless, your solvent is sadly not really safe. i hear its easy to get hexane in EU.