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official extraction help thread Options
 
esoterra
#1561 Posted : 12/20/2012 5:21:42 AM
fractalelf wrote:

Things are looking pretty bad right now.


Dear Friend, I encourage you to take a step back and let the stress wash off before re-approaching the extraction. I am finding that frustration and doubt amass very quickly without prior knowledge. The most important factor is, undoubtedly, patience. Re-reading and cross-referencing as much as possible is also incredibly useful. And yes, at every single step, full filtration and letting solutions settle (unless specifically stated otherwise) seem to be important for success in the following step. I share your concern with keeping the plant spirit in tact. Allow your intention to be the protective force that carries the spirit through to the end. The reality is that these plants contain many compounds that are not instructive to the experience and may even be detrimental to clarity during travel. May ease of execution pervade your future endeavors, fair companion.
 
esoterra
#1562 Posted : 12/20/2012 2:26:48 PM
esoterra wrote:
With Regard to Tao of Rue and other Harmala extractions, one may find Lime (pickling lime/slaked lime/ CaOH) to be far superior to Washing Soda (NaCO3) as the alkalizing agent. This can be useful if using Lye is a turn off.


{EDITED} As the process continues, doubts have been eliminated ^ Smile Also, adding vinegar to help manske salt-crystals dissolve is supported. Cross-reference! reactions and products may resemble images of those in one tek much more closely than another.
 
esoterra
#1563 Posted : 12/21/2012 4:03:31 PM
A few clarifying questions for those well practiced.

-With regard to post-final basing of alkaloids, is it advisable to "wash" precipitated harmalas with water, to rinse off unwanted chems, or do they run the risk of being dissolved?

-Are "yellow prussiate of soda" and other anti-caking agents equally as important to avoid as iodine with regard to salt? Crystals have formed in it's presence, however, yield is suspect.

-How many mg harmaline+harmine can be expected from a 3x manske/base purification of 1500g syrian rue?

-How might additional harmalas find their way out of filters/cotton balls/excess liquid, and into a freebase-state most efficiently?

Many thanks, many blessings. May our path be laden with light.
 
Dreadyer
#1564 Posted : 12/24/2012 2:38:56 PM
Hi all

i have a small problem as after putting the glass with naphta in the freezer and getting those crystals dmt , when i take it out and poured the naphta to let those crystals dry they all disapearCrying or very sad after 20mn at room temp under a small fan ??

anyone has any idea about the issue ??


Peace ..
 
fractalelf
#1565 Posted : 1/1/2013 5:41:16 PM
esoterra wrote:
Dear Friend, I encourage you to take a step back and let the stress wash off before re-approaching the extraction. The reality is that these plants contain many compounds that are not instructive to the experience and may even be detrimental to clarity during travel.

Much appreciated wisdom!
My fears were based on troubling experiences with Syrian rue. I found the more traditional ayahuasca herbs can be much more gentle and easily consumed, and even pleasant to use by themselves. I recommend them highly, especially for first-timers.
It may be simply a lack of extraction experience, or perhaps the spirit of Syrian Rue was trying to tell me something! I find myself grateful for unpleasant teachings so that I could move beyond.
For Dreadyer: I have always tried collecting the crystals ASAP before they re-dissolve. I believe my freezer might be especially cold, because normal ice sublimates quickly, leaving ice-trays empty! I have had some success putting crystals suspended in cold naptha onto absorbent coffee filters, then back into the freezer. Unfortunately some fibers get scraped off along with the DMT crystals afterwards, so this is less than ideal.
 
Earthlova
#1566 Posted : 1/4/2013 6:15:37 PM
I did 3 recrystallization of my spice and its still a little bit yellow,can it still be any lye in it if i did it right?The colour i hope its from the plant
Thx


Heated upp the hephtane to 60 degress C and removed the spice that was melted in the glass to another one.I did leave some hephtane in the bottom even if i didnt got any "oil" there after i waited 10 minutes
 
cyb
Moderator | Skills: Digi-Art, DTP, Optical tester, Mechanic, CarpenterSenior Member | Skills: Digi-Art, DTP, Optical tester, Mechanic, Carpenter
#1567 Posted : 1/4/2013 6:35:42 PM
A slight yellow tint is quite normal and sometimes preferable. After 3 Re-x's I can say that you be fine with that.

The residue that is left can still be used as it still contains spice. It might just smoke differently.

Smile
Please do not PM tek related questions
Reserve the right to change your mind at any given moment.
 
Ultramarine
#1568 Posted : 1/6/2013 2:23:17 PM
Hi, I'm a new member from Italy, and here is very difficult to find Naphtha and Heptane... I wonder if you could suggest me a substitute; I'm trying to perform the Noman extraction. Thank you a lot
 
Dn588
#1569 Posted : 1/17/2013 11:07:36 AM
Hi all

I tried my first extraction yesterday with 100g powdered MHRB, the tech I am trying is Q2121's food grade extraction tech. Everything seemed to go well until the non-polar wash, I put the bark/calsium hydroxide in a hot water bath and added the naphtha. I then stirred it for approx 7 minutes. It seems like the bark/calsium hydroxide absorbed most of the naphtha and it's not separating. Any idea how I could change/fix this?
Thanks in advance
“Nature loves courage. You make the commitment and nature will respond to that commitment by removing impossible obstacles. Dream the impossible dream and the world will not grind you under, it will lift you up. This is the trick. This is what all these teachers and philosophers who really counted, who really touched the alchemical gold, this is what they understood. This is the shamanic dance in the waterfall. This is how magic is done. By hurling yourself into the abyss and discovering its a feather bed.”
(Terence McKenna)
 
cyb
Moderator | Skills: Digi-Art, DTP, Optical tester, Mechanic, CarpenterSenior Member | Skills: Digi-Art, DTP, Optical tester, Mechanic, Carpenter
#1570 Posted : 1/17/2013 11:23:45 AM
Dn588 wrote:
Hi all

I tried my first extraction yesterday with 100g powdered MHRB, the tech I am trying is Q2121's food grade extraction tech. Everything seemed to go well until the non-polar wash, I put the bark/calsium hydroxide in a hot water bath and added the naphtha. I then stirred it for approx 7 minutes. It seems like the bark/calsium hydroxide absorbed most of the naphtha and it's not separating. Any idea how I could change/fix this?
Thanks in advance


This has been mentioned before in quite a few threads. You can add more nap to the mix and the best suggestion I've seen is to squeeze the mix through a t shirt or some sort of filter or even press it with a wooden spoon against the side of the container...wring it out of the mix (filter/separate particulates after that)...then carry on Smile
Please do not PM tek related questions
Reserve the right to change your mind at any given moment.
 
Infundibulum
ModeratorChemical expert
#1571 Posted : 1/17/2013 11:25:27 AM
Dn588 wrote:
Hi all

I tried my first extraction yesterday with 100g powdered MHRB, the tech I am trying is Q2121's food grade extraction tech. Everything seemed to go well until the non-polar wash, I put the bark/calsium hydroxide in a hot water bath and added the naphtha. I then stirred it for approx 7 minutes. It seems like the bark/calsium hydroxide absorbed most of the naphtha and it's not separating. Any idea how I could change/fix this?
Thanks in advance

Hi there,

I have no experience with this tek but I've read that people often either add more naphtha or they try to squeeze the bark/calcium hydroxide/naphtha mix through a t-shirt or other cloth.


Need to calculate between salts and freebases? Click here!
Need to calculate freebase or salt percentage at a given pH? Click here!

 
Dn588
#1572 Posted : 1/17/2013 12:56:23 PM
Thanks Cyb and Infundibulum will try that. Anyone with experience doing Q2121's tech did I do something wrong? When doing the non-polar wash should it be stirred much or just a bit? Should the naphtha mix in completely with the bark/Calsium hydroxide or should it stay 2 separate layers?
“Nature loves courage. You make the commitment and nature will respond to that commitment by removing impossible obstacles. Dream the impossible dream and the world will not grind you under, it will lift you up. This is the trick. This is what all these teachers and philosophers who really counted, who really touched the alchemical gold, this is what they understood. This is the shamanic dance in the waterfall. This is how magic is done. By hurling yourself into the abyss and discovering its a feather bed.”
(Terence McKenna)
 
Deadhead22
#1573 Posted : 1/29/2013 3:59:46 AM
Ok so I need some help I'm doing an a/b extraction and every time I try to freeze precip the naphtha a sheet of white appears at the bottom so I drain the naphtha and set the jar in the freezer upside down to drain all leftover solvent after I come back to I after a couple hours the white sheet on the bottom remains so I let sit for a few minutes to observe what happens and it seems to melt into even more naphtha and I try to evap that and Almost nothing is there afterwords. Any help would be appreciated I've been working on it a while now I can't figur out what keeps happening
"Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right"
 
little flower
#1574 Posted : 1/29/2013 7:55:54 PM
I am a non-chemist beginner with elementary questions; Kindly seeking clarification on the 'Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide' https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide

Why is it, that in step 12, the alkaloids are said to pass through the coffee filter while the impurities are caught in it?
And in step 10, it says that a coffee filter is used to prevent the alkaloids from passing through?

Step 12 does say, “Your alkaloids should be dissolved in the liquid so any solid/color that stays in the filter is impurity.” But there is not explanation offered as to why the harmalas can pass through the filter at this step.

Bottom line: is my understanding correct, that the alks don’t pass in step 10, but do pass in step 12? If so, why is this?

Also, regarding salt precipitation: I understand that the saltwater mixture will push out the alks, but how to I collect them without the salt water? Do I just carefully pour the alks off the top?

Thanks a lot <3
 
Vodsel
Senior Member | Skills: Filmmaking and Storytelling, Video and Audio Technology, Teaching, Gardening, Languages (Proficient Spanish, Catalan and English, and some french, italian and russian), Seafood cuisine
#1575 Posted : 1/29/2013 8:04:27 PM
little flower wrote:
Why is it, that in step 12, the alkaloids are said to pass through the coffee filter while the impurities are caught in it?


Because in step 12 you are filtering a solution with the alkaloids in acetate form, which you just obtained the step before. The dissolved alkaloids will cross the filter and the impurities will get stuck in it.

little flower wrote:
And in step 10, it says that a coffee filter is used to prevent the alkaloids from passing through?


Because in step 10 you have the alkaloids in freebase form, that is undissolved in the water, so they will be caught by the filter at that stage.

little flower wrote:
Also, regarding salt precipitation: I understand that the saltwater mixture will push out the alks, but how to I collect them without the salt water? Do I just carefully pour the alks off the top?


You can decant and filter, again with a fine coffee filter. Remember, the rule of thumb is - a coffee filter will catch undissolved solids. Read well the guide... if you know what you have in every step, it will be clear what to save and what to discard every time you filter.
 
Snurry
#1576 Posted : 1/30/2013 4:56:15 AM
Deadhead22 wrote:
Ok so I need some help I'm doing an a/b extraction and every time I try to freeze precip the naphtha a sheet of white appears at the bottom so I drain the naphtha and set the jar in the freezer upside down to drain all leftover solvent after I come back to I after a couple hours the white sheet on the bottom remains so I let sit for a few minutes to observe what happens and it seems to melt into even more naphtha and I try to evap that and Almost nothing is there afterwords. Any help would be appreciated I've been working on it a while now I can't figur out what keeps happening


Not sure if it's the same problem I had. But it could be moisture in your jar sinking to the bottom and freezing into ice. I also have the problem when I take the jar out of the freezer and open it; many small crystals form on the sides, and then quickly dissolve.
It took me a couple of tries of saving it to realise it was just moisture from the air.
 
little flower
#1577 Posted : 1/30/2013 5:19:44 AM
Thanks a lot Vodsel. ++
 
xx1182
#1578 Posted : 1/30/2013 7:20:04 PM
What is the "cheapest" way?

I can use Mimosa hostilis or Psychotria Viridis..
Something easy and not expensive.. as i have seen there a re a lot of teks...
 
a1pha
Moderator | Skills: Master hacker!
#1579 Posted : 1/30/2013 7:21:33 PM
xx1182 wrote:
What is the "cheapest" way?

That depends on MANY factors. Also, "cheapest" isn't always best...
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." -A.Huxley
 
xx1182
#1580 Posted : 1/30/2013 7:31:37 PM
a1pha wrote:
xx1182 wrote:
What is the "cheapest" way?

That depends on MANY factors. Also, "cheapest" isn't always best...

So.. do you have any suggestion?

I've heard some teks that costs around 100$.. I want almost 2 to 5 doses without including the plant costs..
 
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