So maybe a couple tips.
When I've done hot pulls, especially with lower grade naphthas, I have pulled plenty of oils(?) along with my spic3. Upon re-x I found little chunks of white stuff floating in my goo. Lye? Better to dump your naphtha in only after your soup has reached room temp. Better to make sure your naphtha is the best you can find.
The reason you don't find a lot of these clean up steps is because if you work with the best available materials, use common sense, follow the directions precisely and do as much research as you can before starting you can acheive a very pure product before even one re-x. In general re-xing is recommended though and doesn't need to be mentioned in every tek.
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If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta. EDIT : valid only when recrystalizing, do not pull with heptane. 
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Pixar wrote:If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta.  Heptane only surpasses naptha in recrystallizations. DMT hae poor solubility in heptane, stick with naptha if you aren't recrystallizing.
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1ce wrote:Pixar wrote:If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta.  Heptane only surpasses naptha in recrystallizations. DMT hae poor solubility in heptane, stick with naptha if you aren't recrystallizing. Yes, sorry I didn't put it into context : huge crystals from heptane only worth it if used for recrystalization. Never use it for pulls. Thanks for clarifying 1CE, I don't want to induce anyone into pulling with heptane
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Pixar wrote:If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta.  Yes, this is essentially the point I've been trying to make (or have made already...  ). These are all different options. None of them are more correct or inherently "better" than the other. I like to give people options and have them do whatever is most comfortable for them. It is all up to you now Cinderblock! Report back with your results! New to The Nexus? Check These Out: One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish
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FLeP wrote:So maybe a couple tips.
When I've done hot pulls, especially with lower grade naphthas, I have pulled plenty of oils(?) along with my spic3. Upon re-x I found little chunks of white stuff floating in my goo. Lye? Better to dump your naphtha in only after your soup has reached room temp. Better to make sure your naphtha is the best you can find.
The reason you don't find a lot of these clean up steps is because if you work with the best available materials, use common sense, follow the directions precisely and do as much research as you can before starting you can acheive a very pure product before even one re-x. In general re-xing is recommended though and doesn't need to be mentioned in every tek. I'm planning on getting VN&P, which seems to be the standard. All the teks recommend pouring hot naphtha. But you're recommending room temp naphtha added to room temp soup?
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The Grateful One wrote:Pixar wrote:If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta.  Yes, this is essentially the point I've been trying to make (or have made already...  ). These are all different options. None of them are more correct or inherently "better" than the other. I like to give people options and have them do whatever is most comfortable for them. It is all up to you now Cinderblock! Report back with your results! Is heptane that hard to acquire? It's on Amazon. I guess there are countries that outlaw it? And thanks for all the advice. I will definitely post my progress.
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cinderblock wrote:The Grateful One wrote:Pixar wrote:If you do two of any of these I would not worry your spice should be clean and not oily : mini ab, re-x, sodium carb wash. Freebase is the most smokable form due to it's lower vaporizing temperature and freebase vs salt has nothing to with the product being safe or not. Amonia wash will make you lose some DMT. If you want huge crystals and have the priviledge of living in an area where you can find heptane easily : use it instead of naphta.  Yes, this is essentially the point I've been trying to make (or have made already...  ). These are all different options. None of them are more correct or inherently "better" than the other. I like to give people options and have them do whatever is most comfortable for them. It is all up to you now Cinderblock! Report back with your results! Is heptane that hard to acquire? It's on Amazon. I guess there are countries that outlaw it? And thanks for all the advice. I will definitely post my progress. Maybe it is, maybe not. My only source for this is people reporting they can't find heptane. I would like to see your results ! 
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cinderblock wrote: I'm planning on getting VN&P, which seems to be the standard. All the teks recommend pouring hot naphtha.
But you're recommending room temp naphtha added to room temp soup?
VM&P isn't a brand, it's a type. I would recommend looking at the msds sheets for specific brands and finding yourself some light aliphatic hydrocarbons. Different brands are made of different stuff and lower quality ingredients will bring across more crap that you don't want. If you get light aliphatic hydrocarbons even if you pull hot you will mostly pull just spice, albeit slightly colored spice.
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1ce wrote:Yes, you can absolutely get lye in your precipitate. It's fine to get a little basic water with the naptha, was the naptha with distilled water afterwords to remove these contaminants. Lye isn't soluble in naphtha unless naptha temps are ar like 350 degrees it's impossible to get naptha to those temps in a base extraction if base is pulled out into the solvent and land in your solvent dish simply tip the dish up and wipe it out. If you put water into your solvent after the pull the dmt will not freeze precipitate you'll have to re pull the naptha
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FLeP wrote:So maybe a couple tips.
When I've done hot pulls, especially with lower grade naphthas, I have pulled plenty of oils(?) along with my spic3. Upon re-x I found little chunks of white stuff floating in my goo. Lye? Better to dump your naphtha in only after your soup has reached room temp. Better to make sure your naphtha is the best you can find.
The reason you don't find a lot of these clean up steps is because if you work with the best available materials, use common sense, follow the directions precisely and do as much research as you can before starting you can acheive a very pure product before even one re-x. In general re-xing is recommended though and doesn't need to be mentioned in every tek. Plant oils can be almost eliminated with a defat pull with your solvent before you base out your bark discard that solvent use for the defat
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