Hey guys,

I gave up on my extractions about 6-7 months ago after many failures. upon intensive research I have found many possible answers to why my initial acuminata extractions failed, such as

1. The bark i used was from already dead/windblown trees, and whiteants may have eaten the alkaloids.
2. I was using way too much heat in my extractions.
3. I was using shitty bunnings shellite.

This is my new planned extraction.

Use only phyloides and twigs of living acuminatas (harvesting in a few days).
Grind to powder in coffee grinder.
Soak in acidic solution of PH 3-4 made from -Tartaric Acid- (overnight)
The next day simmer that mixture for 2-3 hours in this pressure cooker outside. (http://www.kambrook.com.au/pressure-express.html buying tomorrow)
Repeat last step another two times.
Combine acidic brews and reduce to 1/3 of original size.
Use Xylene to Defat.
Add a flat tablespoon of finely ground non-iodised salt to the reduced brew before adding Sodium Hydroxide to reach a PH of 12.
Leave to completely cool to room temperature.
Use 3-5 Pulls with chilled (left in fridge prior to pulls) Zippo Lighter Fluid (opposed to regular hardware shellite) without any sort of heat bath.
Freeze precipitate.

Can anyone see any flaws in this method, or have any extra advice for dealing with Acuminata Twigs and Phyloides?

I would have liked to post this in the Acacia Extraction thread but i do not have forum permissions.

sounds fine.. the overnight acidic soak isn't really necessary if you are simmering it... unless you are doing an ethanol/methanol soak, in which case other desirable alkaloids may be pulled which wouldn't be soluble in the acidic water (unlikely though) - acuminata is generally very pure dmt profile anyways though

do you know if the tree you plan on using is the narrow phyllode, broad phyllode or small seed variant? i believe narrow phyllode has the purest profile.. though the broader phyllode variant has other desireables.. i remember reading of people's success with oral brews without the addition of other plant MAOI's

pretty sure they are narrow phyllodes. I will take some photos and post after thursday.
does it make much difference whether they are flowering or not?

there are two particular trees near a shed which are sheltered by a steel tank of one side, so all the fallen leaves have collected on the ground beneath them. they are probably very old and dead, do you think these are usable? there is a good 5kg of dried phyllodes just sitting there, would be a shame to waste.

some may be too old and inactive though I have no doubt that there would be dmt in a lot of them.. definitely give it a go

Hey guys,

I have a few questions regarding the acuminata extraction:

the first attempt I tried to defat with xylene and the emulsions were so much I could not seperate it at all. it was like all of the xylene instantly converted to a solid fat.
i ended up separating the acid into several containers and trying to defat separately thinking this might reduce the thickness of the xylene pulls, if i used more.

it didn't work at all, so i ended up basifying the acid mixture with the xylene still sitting on top (could not seperate), then adding some naptha and leaving for the weekend.

over the weekend in a different town i tried an extraction without a defat stage (also with acuminata). this went well except the naptha was a dark green (something i had never seen before). i reduced my pulls and started freezing them. after about 24 hours some small green crystals had started to appear but i had to take the jar out of the freezer to travel back to the city.

upon arriving home, the first extractions had seperated, so i pulled the solvents from them combined them with the second, reduced and put into a jar.

the naptha was cloudy as expected but at some point today after checking it had just gone clear all of a sudden.

i am very confused at this point. i realise by mixing the two extractions final pulls, i have mixed xylene and naptha which i assume can mess with the freeze precipitation process?

atm i am evaporating all the solvent completely, and am going to try and recrystalise with fresh naptha tomorrow.

anyone had experience with these ridiculous defatting emulsions when working with phyllodes?

i am assuming the naptha was green because i did not dry the leaves enough and so there was an abundance of plant oil, but this was still weird to witness.

anyone know of better alternatives to xylene for defatting or could someone explain the method in more detail?
i was adding 200ml xylene to a HDPE containor full of my coffee filtered acidic solution and shaking like crazy, then i put in a heat bath for hour or so with no noticed reduction in emulsions.
i really need to figure out the defatting stage so i can clean my crystals. i have never been able to produce clean crystals, there has always been a film of oil trapping the crystals which has made it impossible to recover them.