PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Marsofold's Desmanthus TEK

A 1-pound sample of Desmanthus Illinoisis root was chipped
3 times in a commercial 2 horsepower electric chipper. Weight
after chipping losses: 409 grams, placed in small white
plastic bucket and extracted twice with:
------------------------------------------------------------
1/2-Gallon HOT tap water + 65ml HCL(31%).[4hr soak]:
Stirred occasionally 1st hour, then soaked another 3 hours.
------------------------------------------------------------
1/2-Gallon HOT tap water + 65ml HCL(31%).[12hr soak]
Stirred occasionally 1st hour, then soaked another 11 hours
------------------------------------------------------------
The wet volume of the 409 gram sample was measured at 2130ml.
The color of the acidic extract was light brown. Both extracts
were decanted overnight and filtered through a white cotton
cloth into a 1-Gallon glass wine jug. A small amount of hot
water was added to the extraction jug to raise the liquid
level to the bottom of the neck the jug for extraction
convenience. The volume of the extract was measured to be 3700ml.
------------------------------------------------------------
Four xylene defats were performed, each 105ml, for a total
xylene consumption of 420ml. After the xylene was removed
from the last extraction(with a glass turkey baster), an
additional 200ml of acidic extract was also removed to
guarantee that 100% of the xylene had been removed.
------------------------------------------------------------
The 3500ml of light brown extract was then basified with
100 grams of NaOH to a measured ph of 13.55
------------------------------------------------------------
The DMT was removed with two 105ml extractions of naptha
(total 210ml of naptha used). The naptha was fan-evaporated
down to a volume of 15ml to assure precipitation at freezer
temperatures.The naptha was chilled in a pyrex baking pan
covered with plastic wrap. The next day numerous white
crystals were seen spotting the bottom of pan. The naptha
was poured off and after warming to room temperature, the
plastic wrap was removed and the crystals were allowed to
dry on the bottom of the pan. After light scraping with a
pair of new single-edge razor blades, 83milligrams of DMT
was obtained.
------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: While this TEK was not designed for maximum
extraction efficiency, it WAS designed for ease of
proportional scaling for bulk DMT production. A dozen pounds
of home-grown Desmanthus root, a gallon of xylene, and a
half-gallon of naptha can yield a gram of white crystal DMT
for about $15. The solvent cost is the main production expense.
With redistilation of the xylene, the DMT cost could be
reduced to a few dollars per gram, an attractive alternative
for the hyperspacial farmer...

from rootbark to smokeable spice in 7 hours - QuantumBrujo

OK here's how swim does it inabout 7 hours.we will be doing a 375 gram MHRB extraction here.(which should yield between 3 or 4 grams of spice.
1)chop up the rootbark using a paper guillotine to save time- about 15 minutes
2) pulverize it with a blender bit by bit - about15-20 minutes depending on your blender.

While youre doing this you are preheating your crockpot with 2 and a half litres of water(using distilled water is just a way to spend more money,I always use tap water and get good results).So we just spent about half an hour and our water is already hot and our rootbark is already in powder form.before adding the powdered rootbark to the water add vinegar and stir and check PH with digital PH meter it should go as far down as about 3.if it is higher add some more vinegar,stir it up real good and re-check PH.When your PH is around 3 add the rootbark powder and stir the shit out of it.Let it simmer for three hours stirring the shit out of it often.When two and a half hours have passed stop stirring to let the guck settle to the bottom.
with the chopping and grinding and simmering we are now at 3 and a half hours.pour the liquid through a cheese cloth into a wide mouthed stainless steel or glass(punch bowl will work) type of container.close up the cloth over the plant matter and sqweeze the shit out of it to get all the juice out.It's very hot so wear dishwashing gloves.whet you feel it too hot even with gloves pass your hands with gloves under running cold water and repeat the sqweezing till it's almost a dry pulp.this takes about 5 minutes.you now have a bowl full of a purplish reddish liquid that looks like cheap red wine.add slowly a saturated solution of lye(NaOH,sodium hydroxide,caustic soda) before I go on I would just like to say that you don't need to filter too much cause your non-polar solvent(naptha) will float anyway and the crud will stay on the bottom.So add the lye very slowly while stirring and check PH add a bit more and check PH it will first turn kind od grey and then black.You wanna get the PH as far up as 13-13.5 not 9-10 like the other teks say.with a PH this high you will get all the DMT and will hardly get emulsions.Once you get the PH to 13.5 you are ready to start pulling DMT freebase with you naptha.
I forgot to say that after you emptied the crockpot,wash it and preheat water in it while you are doing the basification .This will be the hot water bath for your extraction bottle.and also in a seperate bottle you should have been heating your naptha almost to boiling point in a water bath as well under fume hut preferably don't smoke.For your extraction bottle try to get a wine bottle that has a long neck.Fill the wine bottle to the bottom of the neck,leave the neck to top off with HOT naptha.About 4 hours went by and we are ready to do our first pull.Make sure that you had the bottle of black liquid in the crockpot hot water and the naptha is HOT.fill the rest of the boittle with the hot naptha and put the cork or screw-on cap and up-end it don't shake for a full 5 minutes.you will see emulsions,but by putting the bottle in the hot water bath and letting it sit your layers should seperate nicely in less that ten minutes.When the layers are seperated nicely use a turkey baster to siphon off the naptha.be carefull not to suck up any of the black liquid,and put in a mason jar.repeat this with the same liquid two more times,and combine all the naptha pulls in the mason jar.You only used part of what you had in the bowl so do this untill you have no more left.In other words your wine bottle only hols a litre and you had twoand a half plus the vinegar plus the lye solution so you shoul have close to three litres of black juice.that means you do the wine bottle thing three times doing three pulls on each one.Leave your mason jar with all the pulls at room temperature with the lid open to evap some of it untill you see it getting cloudy.place it under fume hut and place a fan to get it to evap faster.Once it's cloudy put the lid on the mason jar and put it in the freezer.In two hours you should have most of the DMT pprecipitated out sittingon the bottom.when the naptha goes clear again most of the spice is out.Pour it through a coffee filter and save the naptha in another mason jar.pour chilled ammonia 15-20 ml/gram of spice thru the filter after all the naptha has evaped and the xtals are dry.empty the coffee filter on a plate and spread out the spice to dry it faster and you now have smokable DMT.it will be slightly yellowish so now if you want you can recrystalize using fresh naptha.I'm tired so recrystalization specifics will be posted tommorrow or another day.good luck and see you in hyperspace at the dome on full moons.

I edited to say that I stopped counting the time,but all that I mentioned should not take more than 7 hours.When you basify it's a hell of a reaction and you don't need more time to get most of the spice out.If you leave it in the freezer longer you might get a slight bit more ,but nothing worth writing home about.My tek is tried tested and true.If you plan on snorting it you should recrystalize it about three times.I did it 4 times and it doesn't even burn the nose.no hydroxides left.

GreenMan's Tek

1) 40g mhrb broken into 1/2-1" pieces then ground 20g at a time in coffee grinder... to stop excessive dust generation lightly mist with distilled water before grinding (20 mins max)

2) mix one part distilled white vinegar with three parts distilled water (you will use 400ml) (2 mins)

3 place the rootbark in 1/2lb jam jar; cover with vinegar mix (use no more than 150ml) then place in double pan (pudding bowl of hot water stood in pan of boiling water) and heat for 20 mis ( 25 mins)

4) pour off liquid into a jug and squease the mhrb off through a cheap plastic tea sieve (10mins)

5) put the root bark back into the jam jar and add another 100ml of vinegar/ water mix and cook for another 20 mins then strain again.

6) repeat one more extract with vinegar/water mix. this last extract should be considerable paler than the first two.. you can go a fourth but it's not worth it ) (20mins)

7) you now have approx 400ml of extract with sludge... pass this through a plastic coffee filter.. pour it through slowly and leave the sludge behind.. (you can squease this througy a coff filter for the few drops it holds if you must) (5 mins)

8)put two papper coffee filters into a funnel or filter holder and again carefully pour the liquid into the top filter.. once the flow has slowed down carefully lift the top filter and gently squease the liquid through... if you have an accident and bust the filter open the second filter will prevent you contaminating the clean extract with particles... depending on your abilities this can take from 30 mins to 6 hours to perform.. but lets say 30mins)

9) pour the collected and now filter extract into a single rose flower vase or any similar norrow tall vessel and then add one teaspoon of soda crystals (NaOH) and mix. solution should turn from claret red to creosote brown and get warm...

10 ) put about 25-40 ml of pet ether (lighter fluid) into a sceond single rose vase....now for the clever bit (well I think so) ..take a funnel and reduce the outlet end so that a hole no bigger than a match exists (and no smaller than a pin) and pour the basifiedextract into the funnel... you should get a nice stream running into the pet ether..one that has maximum contact and therefore maximum transfer rate... (5 mins)

11) once all the extract is through the funnel allow the two solvents to seperate then draw off the pet ether and put into the first rose vase and repeat the exercise... do this six times (so 30 mins in all) then leave the solvents to seperate fully.... go have a coffee or something but let the solvents fully seperate (about 10 mins but give it 20) .. if you dont your final extract will contain impurities from the soda crystals and other constiuinents in the mhrb that you dont want...

12) put a glass pyrex dish over a pan of boiling water.. open the window an turn on the extractor and don't smoke!!! ... now draw off the clear pet ether and put in the dish.. once all the liquid has evaporated you will see alayer of honey coloured extract...

13) scrap this honey coloured liquid up and with with smoking material.. you could leave this extract to cool and turn white but it won't mix as well with your smoking material...

14) get a pipe and leave ya body.......

...

it takes how long? a couple of hours and you get good clean extract... if you really want crystals then evaporate slowly using an a sppon or watch glass.. just keep adding extract and you will get lots of white crystals but the fast tech is just as good if not better...

regards

GM23

How I pull the magick out......sammytek54543

100grams MHRB powdered
2 Vitamin C tablets,1000mg. crushed as fine as possible
1qt of dH20
1 1/2 TBSP. of 100%Roebic Drain Cleaner NaOH(Lye)
VM&P Naptha(accept no substitutions!!)
Coffee filters,cheesecloth,wire tea strainers
Funnel
Quart size Mason jar(with lid)
Crockpot
a couple 1/2 pint mason jars(like you use for growing shrooms)
shotglass
Pyrex baking dish
A freezer/refridgerator
a stove
pH papers or pen(I don't use,but am picking one up ASAP)


Step 1
In your crockpot add 100grams of finely powdered MHRB(adjust amounts accordingly-take size of vessel you will be using into account as well),while also adding 1 finely crushed Vitamin C tablet 1000mg. to 1 quart of warm dH2o.Stir until it is mixed thouroughly.Add 1/2 of this(give or take some)into the crockpot until the MHRB is submerged completely.Do not discard the remaining water/vitamin C solution since it will be used on 2nd extraction.Mix contents up well so the acidic water soaks every bit of bark in there.Set temperature to medium setting for 30-40minutes,stirring regularly.After this time,reduce heat to low or warm setting,and allow to simmer for another 45minutes to an hour.Stir as before. When time has elapsed,strain liquid through a wire strainer into a plastic container.Repeat this a few times using a tea strainer and cheesecloth as well(if available).The basic goal is to remove as much of the plant matter from the liquid as you possibly can.DO NOT toss whatever mucky red slop you collect from the liquid.This is to be collected and tossed back into the crockpot once ALL the liquid has been filtered.Put strained liquid aside.Add remaining 1/2qt. of acidic water to the collected and strained plant matter in the crockpot and simmer on low for 45minutes to an hour,stirring as before.Strain as before and collect.If you want to take the time and squeeze every bit of alkaloid out of your sludge you can do this step one more time using a 1/4qt. solution with 250mg. of vitamin C with the sludge in pot on HIGH for an hour.Strain again and combine 2-3 extractions in one plastic container,making sure it's been strained as thouroughly as possible.Cover container and throw in freezer for 90minutes to cold filter.When removed,there will be a layer of GREY sludge sitting at the bottom.Pour the viscious red liquid into a qt. mason jar and throw the grey shit AWAY.

Step 2.
In a 1/2pint canning mason jar add 100mL of dH20 and heat in microwave for 90 seconds or so(get it nice and hot).Now,SLOWLY and CAREFULLY stir in(just a little at a time so it doesn't boil over)1 1/2TBSP of NaOH(Lye)to the hot water.Be careful,as a Lye burn is not pleasant.Wear safety goggles and appropriate gloves and avoid any stuipid accidents.It only shines more light on the more careful ones who don't want ANY unnecessary attention or scrupulation.Once your basic solution is ready,slowly pour it into the mason jar with your extractions.The liquid will change from a dark-red,to a grey,and then black.This is what you want.If it's not black the pH is NOT high enough and you will fail.If you have a pH pen or papers you want a 14pH.If you don't have these,you can be sure the measurement I gave(if using 100grams MHRB)will be MORE than sufficient.It's difficult to overdo it,but easier to underdo it.Shoot for the sky!!
Cap the lid to jar and upturn the jar(DO NOT SHAKE!!)for a good 3-5min.,loosening the lid when in the upright position periodically to avoid any build-up of pressure!!This is very important.Make sure your goggles and gloves are still on!!!


Step 3.
In a shotglass pour out about 30-50mL of VM&P Naptha(don't use that zippo/coleman shit-yuck!!)and put to side.In a seperate 1/2pint mason jar,fill it up halfway with tap water(save the distilled)and stick it in your microwave for 2 1/2-3minutes(or until boiling).Carefully remove from microwave,and place the shotglass of Naptha into the jar carefully to avoid cracking glass,making sure water doesn't overflow from sides.Let shotglass sit in this hotwater bath for about 10minutes,or until Naptha is GOOD and HOT.Open Qt.jar and pour in the hot Naptha. Tighten lid and upend as before,for a good 5-10 minutes,ensuring all free-base DMT meets the hot solvent.When finished,place jar down(or for better,faster results)into a hot water bath until layers fully seperate,and no emulsion forms.The crystal clear layer is the solvent,and where all your magic lies.Once fully seperated,this clear layer needs to be carefully removed,and this step repeated an additional 2 more times.

Step 4.
Using an eyedropper(ideal),empty spore syringe,glass pipette or turkey baster,siphon off as much of the clear solvent layer as you possibly can,making sure NOT to get any of the other layers into the solvent as well.This takes patience and careful work.If using a larger utensil,an eyedropper is best when there isn't much remaining.Deposit siphoned solvent into a clean mason jar.Do this for all 3 pulls.Once the solvent has been collected,cover jar tightly and stick in freezer for 24-48hours.You will see crystals begin to fall out of solvent within a few hours but wait it out.After time has elapsed,over a clean pyrex dish,pour out solvent and whatever crystals follow through a coffee filter.The shards will stick to filter.There should be a substantial amount still sitting at the bottom of your jar.Collect crystals,and allow to air dry.Cover with a paper towel so no dust collects.Pour solvent into a new jar and return to freezer for a few days or evaporate it by air to see what you get.

You can recrystallize if desired,though I've found it unecessary.
If anyone has anything to add please do!!
Props to Condo and Marsofold for showing the way


goodluck and be carefull!!!

 

entheogenist's DMT recrystallization TEK

I have had some trouble finding a comprehensive recrystallization TEK, so I have put one together based on my experiences in recrystallization. I used some tips from marsofold and vovin and added my own techniques.

I am only a second-year biochem student, so I have a few questions for you real chemists, and they will follow the TEK in this post. I would also like to know what my fellow DMT extractors think of my TEK. So, here it is:

The Entheogenist's DMT recrystallization TEK

What you need:

-- 3 one-pint mason jars

-- Naphtha (Ace brand VM&P Naphtha)

-- a small (1mL) buret to separate the layers if a sep funnel is unavailable. (a turkey baster is too big, and is not effective for separating layers.)

-- large glass evaporating dish

-- Crock pot

-- Filter papers and a funnel (a vacuum filtration system is preferred and will improve your yield, but if you don't have the 50 bucks to drop, the cofee filter and funnel are fine.)


First, weigh your DMT on a digital scale accurate to at least .01 grams. You need 70mL naphtha per gram of DMT, so multiply the figure from the scale by 70, and that is how many mL of naphtha to use. Measure out the naphtha and place it in a mason jar.

The naphtha needs to be hot in order to dissolve the DMT, so we have to use a water bath, since naphtha is VERY flammable.
Fill your crockpot with enough water so that when you place the sealed mason jar in the water, the level of the water is half an inch or so above the level of naphtha. If the jar floats in the water, it's okay.

Remove the jar from the water while heating. No need to heat the water to boiling, just piping hot. We don't want to get it too, hot, since the naphtha is in a sealed container. When the water is hot, place the naphtha jar in the water for 15 minutes.

While the naphtha is heating, sprinkle the DMT powder on the bottom of the second mason jar. After the naphtha is heated, pour it into the jar with the DMT and seal the jar. Swirl the liquid around until all the DMT is dissolved.

While it is cooling, tilt the mason jar to the side. You will notice a small layer (more like a puddle) of impurities collecting in the corner of the jar. (These are probably tannins or oils from the root bark, along with dust from the air, and possibly some of the basified material from the extraction that made it into the final product due to the slightly sloppy lab technique displayed by some of us kitchen chemists.) Use your buret to reach down to the bottom of the jar and suck that oily layer out of your solution, and place it in the other mason jar.
If no bottom layer forms at all, that's fine. It just
means you did a great job on the initial extraction.
Note: If a buret is not available, you can pour the solution into a ziplock bag, pin the top corner to the wal, and let the oily layer collect in the corner of the bag. Make a pinhole in the corner to let the nasty layer drain out.

Let the solution cool to room temperature.

Place the solution in the refrigerator for 24 hours, then place it in the freezer for 4 hours, and then in the fridge again for 4 hours. Each time you alternate, swirl the solution around in the jar quite a bit, but don't shake it and don't let it get too warm. Alternate between fridge and freezer every 4 hours during the day, and leave it in the freezer for the night. Do this for at least 2 days. . The longer you carry on this process, the bigger the crystals will grow. Alternating between cold and cool allows the crystals to grow bigger and purer by partially dissolving the crystals then reforming them each time you switch from fridge to freezer. When you are finished, let the solution sit in the freezer for 6 hours.

Prepare your filtration system before removing the jar from the freezer. Fold the filter paper into a cone shape that fits in the funnel. Place the funnel in the third mason jar so it stands up. Have a couple premade filter cones ready in case the first one gets clogged.

Remove the mason jar from the freezer, shake it up really good, and if there are crystals stuck to the bottom, use a piece of wire to quickly scrape them off a bit. Before the solution warms at all, pour it through the filter SLOWLY. If it clogs, remove the filter and use a back up cone. When it's all filtered, spread out the filter paper and let the crystals dry. This product is finished and ready for smoking.

If there are crystals stuck to the sides and bottom of the mason jar, pour the filtered naphtha into that jar and swirl it until it is all dissolved. You may need heat it again in the water bath. When it is all dissolved, pour the solution out on the evaporating dish, and let it evaporate in a well ventilated area, with no open flame.
When it is dry, scrape the crystals up and let them sit out for awhile to ensure they are completely dry, then you can mix them in with the rest of your crystals. This step ensures that you get every last bit of happiness out of the naphtha solution. You could evap the original solution without doing any freeze precipitation, but I prefer the freeze precip for the majority of the product. I just use the slow evap to wring out the last bit of DMT that didn't fall out in the freezer, and to get those annoying bits that stick to the jar after freeze precip.

Well, thats my completed recrystallization TEK. ENJOY!


OK, here are my questions:

If you are planning to recrystallize, is it necessary to do the ammonium hydroxide wash beforehand?

and,

Can anyone provide a definite TEK on extracting the "red jungle DMT" from mimosa? I am fascinated by this mystery compound, and would like to explore it. Does anyone know if the compound has been identified or if it is orally active?

Well, much love to the DMT nexus community and a big thanks to marsofold and vovin for enhancing my life with their easy to understand TEKs.

PEACE!

 

DMT Quicktek - Mimosa H. Root Bark Extraction by Vortex

 

Quote:
PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES - DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION.

This tech has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else and those are: To defat the powdered root bark by pouring strait naphtha directly into the powder without water and second, to mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark as is found in other techs. No reason to do so, this works great without going to the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields.

Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified soup to much over 140 degrees F. the DMT alkaloid which has become a freebase can start to turn into a vapor causing it to be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified soup be sure that you do not let the soup get any warmer than 100-120 degrees F. to allow a fairly large margin. My advice is that one hundred degrees F. is plenty warm enough to help speed the process up if you want to do so but is not at all necessary.



DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction by Vortex

The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method which is very simple, the rest is just extra information for those who might be new to extractions. This extraction method can extract the majority of the alkaliod from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours from beginning to end if you have quantity of powdered root bark ready for extraction and speed the evaporation of the extraction solvent through the aid of a fan with the solvent in a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions of over 250 grams may take longer due to the time it takes to evaporate a larger volume of solvent.

Dimethyltryptamine AKA N,N-DMT or DMT which is contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into an amount of basified water at a pH of 13.5 which is made by dissolving a base chemical such as NaOH/sodium hydroxide into water. Basified water which will have a high enough pH to convert the DMT in the root bark powder to a freebase for absorption by naphtha can be prepared by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml of water intended, preparing enough water so that you have close to a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder (when wet) to 3/4 basified water. When the base adjusted water is mixed together with the root bark this will raise the pH to close to 13.5 which is the ideal extraction pH.

The sequence the above is done in is important, be sure to make the basified water ahead of time, if the NaOH causes the water to significantly heat due to the chemical reaction let it cool to under 120 degrees F. and then mix the powdered root bark into the water for five minutes before adding naphtha. Although this extraction can be done with basified water at room temperature, if the water is still warm from the reaction of having NaOH added this will only help but do not add the root bark powder if over 120 degrees F.

Use 100 or more ml (as much as you want) of room temperature naphtha per 250 grams of dry weight root bark being extracted and mix the solvent into the aqueous soup by hand using a non-reactive utensil such as stainless steel for 30 minutes at a time at room temperature to absorb the DMT alkaloid, extracting the watery mix with naphtha the same way at least three or more times over with fresh solvent each time to absorb and pull out the majority of the alkaloid in under two hours. Separate and save the naphtha from the basified mix each time. When finished extracting the root bark evaporate the DMT containing fractions of clear to slightly yellow solvent together to net fairly pure DMT in just a few hours of work.

When done with this quick extraction method and prior to evaporating the solvent you have already collected, pour more clean solvent into the soup, mix for a few minutes, tightly cover to prevent evaporation of the solvent and then set aside in a dark place for a long term soaking of a few days to get the last of the alkaloid out of the root bark. If possible, mash and stir the root bark which will have settled to the bottom of the container at least once a day, twice or more a day is better. A stainless steel potato masher works great for this, do not let the basified solution get on your skin.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Extraction Notes:

Preparing Root Bark for Extraction

The root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if you are willing to wait for the lye/NaOH to soften and break the root bark down into a mush which will extract just as efficiently as powdered root bark but will take a few days to completely soften enough to do so. Although this is true to reduce the amount of time required to extract this plant material it is best to powder the root bark as finely as you can through simple means. This can be done through multiple steps to break the bark down until you have a powder near the consistency of flour. First, strip and cut the bark into fine pieces with pliers or cutting dikes, tin snip shears etc., then place all of the bark in a large enough steel can so that when filled with all of the root bark it is no more than about 1/10 full (coffee cans work great, holding it between your feet) and use a five foot long inch and half or larger OD thick walled schedule 40 or heavier steel pipe to smash the pieces into a powder as you stand above the can and pound the bark into smaller and smaller pieces which will eventually become a powder mixed with harder pieces if you work it long enough. This can only be done if the can is sitting on a flat cement slab, do not try this with the can sitting on a wooden floor, not hard enough.

Once you have thoroughly pulverized the root bark as best you can with a pipe you can then further powder the material or break down the pieces which remain through the use of a small high RPM coffee grinder, the top loading kind which have a stainless steel blade in the top which turns at an extremely high speed. These can be purchased from many large stores which sell kitchen items for less than twenty dollars but are not designed for a heavy work load. Because of this you should wait at least a minute between each grind or you might burn the internal thermal fuse out which is not designed to be replaced, but can be done so by removing it which of course defeats this safety feature to prevent fire if an overload occurs.

Defatting without A-B

Although the extract from Mimosa hostilis root bark is usually pure enough using the above process as is, if desiring a higher purity the small amounts of fat which are in this plants root bark can be removed by a very simple step without the need to acidify and mix with water as is commonly done using what is called an Acid-Base Extraction. This can be done by adding a solvent such as naphtha directly to the dried root bark powder and stirring for just a few minutes and then once the solvent has absorbed the fats, which takes less than ten minutes, pouring the mix through a paper or cloth filter to collect the fine particles of powdered root bark suspended in the solvent and save the wet powder, discarding the solvent. The wet or dried powder can then be added to a mix of water and NaOH to raise the pH of the water to above 13 where the DMT salts contained in the powder are converted to an alkaloid or base which can then be readily extracted using a solvent such as naphtha to absorb it.

This method will work to defat the root bark using the same solvent which extracts the alkaloid because the DMT contained in the dried root bark is in the form of a salt which cannot be absorbed by the solvent until a base is added with water to the powder which releases it for absorption by solvent. Because of this when doing a strait solvent defat you are in effect using the acid to base or A-B defatting process but without having to add an acid to convert the DMT into a salt because DMT contained in dried root bark already exists in the form of a salt so why use a mix of water an acid to defat the material when mixing the powder into strait solvent does the job so well?

Although Mimosa hostilis root bark is already fairly fat free as is and nearly free of fats after performing a simple strait defat of the powder with room temperature solvent, for an extreme defat boil the root bark powder in hot naphtha or any solvent which will absorb plant fats such as xylene etc. and cycle several times, pouring off the old and adding fresh solvent. Some kind of paper or cloth filter should be used to strain the fine particles of root bark powder floating in the solvent each time you do so or you will loose that portion of the root bark to the solvent wash. These particles can be so fine that they can take many hours to settle to the bottom of the container.

Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment:

When extracting root bark do not use plastic containers or utensils which might react with either the solvent or the base chemical. Stainless steel, glass or ceramic containers and stirring utensils are safe with these chemicals. Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves and observe all standard safe practices when working with chemicals and solvents.

Warning, NaOH Sodium Hydroxide is Dangerous:

When working with NaOH/sodium hydroxide this is an extremely dangerous solution you are making. It can cause serious burns and eye damage; wear gloves and goggles, OK? Also, you will find that this compound generates a LOT of heat when it gets wet - so much so that your solution can boil over, spraying NaOH everywhere. Because of this only add and stir small amounts of NaOH base into the water a little at a time to minimize the amount of exothermic heat and bubbling. NEVER add water to a base/NaOH! Again, the powdered base should only be added incrementally and slowly dissolved into a relatively large amount of water, not the other way around.

pH - The Basics

If a substance has one acid component for each base component, it is said to be neutral and has a pH value of 7. Greater than 7 is less acid, more base, and less than 7 is more acid and less base. Each unit is 10 times the previous, i.e., a pH of 9 is 10 times more base than 8, a pH of 5 is 10 times more acid than 6. Some examples of more acid like things are vinegar, orange juice, and the liquid in your car battery that makes holes in your clothes. Bases include lye, Tums, and brushing your teeth with baking soda. When acid like substances are mixed with base like substances, they react with each other producing some by-products and leaving the resulting solution with a pH somewhere between the two original values. The further apart the pH of the two substances, the more energy is released in the reaction. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in a half glass of vinegar and see what happens.

pH Substance Base and Acid Examples:

13.0-14.0 Sodium Hydroxide - (NaOH, lye)
13.0-14.0 Potassium Hydroxide (KOH, lye; Caustic potash)
12.4 Lime - (Calcium Hydroxide)
11.0 Ammonia
10.5 Milk of Magnesia
8.3 Baking Soda
7.4 Human Blood

7.0 Pure Water - Neutral

6.6 Milk
4.5 Tomatoes
4.0 Wine & Beer
3.0 Apples
2.2 Vinegar - (undiluted)
2.0 Lemon Juice
1.0 Battery Acid
0 Hydrochloric Acid

Go to http://tinyurl.com/o8ow7 for a list of common bases and pH

pH Meter or Papers Are Not Required

If you do not have access to a pH meter or papers to confirm how base the solution is the root bark can be basified to a pH of approximately ~13 by dissolving 1 tablespoon of NaOH per 150 ml of water used to basify the root bark regardless of the quantity of water used but should be added to and thoroughly dissolved into the water prior to mixing into the root bark powder. If a bubbly emulsion forms when stirring the mix together with naphtha add more water with the NaOH base dissolved into it and stir again. Until the pH is close to 13 or more emulsions will form very easily when mixing the naphtha into the MHRB soup, after the pH is raised to close to the ideal pH of approx. 13.5 you cannot easily produce an emulsion by swift stirring but some amount will form and if too much allow the solution to sit for a few hours before the solvent is separated out from the watery mix for eventual evaporation. The emulsion should break up or subside on its own after setting still long enough bit if it will not settle out add more NaOH.

The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH−] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10−14 mol/l, and pH = −log 10−14 = 14.

Depending upon the pH of the water the NaOH is being dissolved into the pH can be either lower or higher than the above. As a very gross estimate, half the amount of NaOH, or 20 grams, will produce a pH close to 13.5 in water. When this pH adjusted or basified water is added to root bark the NaOH will react with the powder and lower the pH a bit. As a rough estimate, depending upon whether you are using granulized NaOH or crystals, pellets etc. three measured tablespoons should weigh close to 40 grams and should be base enough to basify 1 litre of water to close to a pH of 14 which will be lowered closer to 13 when mixing root bark powder into it. Since the ideal extraction pH of Mimosa hostilis root bark is closer to 13.5 this tech calls to have a higher ratio of NaOH to water which is approx. 1 tablespoon or 13-15 grams (depending upon whether a powder, crystals or pellets) of NaOH per 150 ml of water which should raise the pH closer to 13.5 when mixed at a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder to 3/4 basified water.

While I have recommended the above ratio of water to root bark powder at 1/4 powder to 3/4 water other teks specify 10 ml of water per gram of powdered rootbark which is about 1.3 US gallons per 500 grams of root bark which is different than the amount I have recommended in this tech. Mix your root bark and basified water to the consistency you want, I do not believe anything in this process requires a high degree of exactness whether that be the amount of root bark powder to water, NaOH to water, amount of naphtha stirred in each time and so on. The fact is small to somewhat moderate departures from what I have outlined in this tech will not make a large amout of difference, especially at the high pH required to extract the root bark. For example; if you use plus or minus 20% NaOH the pH of the extraction will not be affected much, 20 percent more or less water either but if both the both the amount of water and NaOH are radically different such as far more water and far less NaOH, or far less water and far more NaOH, far less powder and far more base adjusted water etc., those departures from the outlined amounts would likely effect the required time and number of extractions performed to extract the majority of the alkaloid out of the mix but as long as the pH is still close to 13 or more the extraction will still probably provide a reasonable amount of yield. All of this becomes moot if you also perform a long term extraction (with extra stirring every day) after the short quick multiple extractions are first completed which will make up for the differences.

The only thing I believe which can probably be done wrong to significantly alter the amount of yield or cause the extraction to possibly fail is if you use far more powder and far less basified water than outlined causing the powder to become only a paste, regardless of having a high pH. Now that could cause a problem with your extraction, but to tell you the truth I have not tried to know and for all I know that might produce even better results and at far less work, give it a try if you feel so inclined. This tech is based on other peoples tried and true work, not my own knowledge about chemistry which is very little. Sure, I have put a couple of new ideas into practice with this tech which I do not think have been put into a public tech before but they have probably been used by someone somewhere sometime in the past with MHRB. Who knows for sure what works best until you try, some of the best things people have come up with were from the untrained and uneducated who did not know better than to try them, ignored by the current experts who thought they would not work. Experiment, find your own best ways of doing things, this tech is just one way of many which will work.

Regardless of the figures in the above paragraph to determine the amount of NaOH needed to bring the aqueous mix of root bark and water up to a pH of ~13.5 (which was based upon an earlier tech by Soma) this amount of NaOH might be more than is really required. An individual in the entheogen community has been working to with MHRB to determine the real world minimum amount of sodium hydroxide needed to efficiently extract powdered MHRB, believing that an efficient extraction can be achieved with as little as one fifth to one tenth the amount of NaOH to produce a pH close to ~13 which should be high enough for the extraction. If his tests prove this out then this tech will be later modified to specify a smaller amount of NaOH for extractions without the need to measure pH. While the higher pH of 13.5 (~five times more NaOH than at 13.0) will work just fine as far as extracting the alkaloid and reduce the amount of potential emulsion formed by stirring, reducing the amount of base dissolved into the water will make the extraction a little safer to work with but still requiring googles and rubber gloves.

The Most Common Causes of Extraction Failures

Too low of a pH is the most common reason for an extraction failure due to leaving most, if not all of the alkaloid behind if you do not achieve a high enough pH. Although an amount of the total alkaloid contained in the root bark can be extracted from a basified solution at a pH of 9 to 10 at that low of a pH relatively little of the DMT will be released as a freebase causing the extraction yield to be much smaller than normal including the added trouble caused by large amounts of emulsions which will form in the extraction solvent at that low of a pH causing great difficulity in separating the solvent from the aqueous portion of the mix.

Although I cannot disagree it is certainly best to have a pH meter available or pH papers which will give a clear indication of the upper end of the pH scale but most papers cannot show whether the pH is really at the ideal extraction pH. Because of this problem someone came up with a great method which does not require reading the pH and that is to add a measured about of NoAH to a specific amount of MHRB, as determined by experience. The recommended minimum amount of NaOH as specified in Somas tek is 1 teaspoon per 50 ml of water or roughly 3 tablespoons per 300 ml of water no matter how much root bark is being extracted by only using as much water as is necessary to keep the aqueous mix a watery slurry. You do NOTt want a thick mix anywhere from the consistency of hot caramel to pancake batter which are far too thick to work out very well. It is best to have the mix a little on the thin side like chicken soup than using so little water that it produces a thick mix, once all of the root bark is stirred up into the basified water.

A great last measure which can be performed to be sure you have raised the pH high enough: After you have extracted everything you think you can out of your root bark double the amount of NaOH/lye mixed into the root bark and try extracting it again to see if more alkaloid comes out of the mix. This might seem like over kill and way too much lye but I have found that you can use as much as lye as two thirds the weight of the root bark being extracted. If extracting 500 grams of root bark 300 grams of lye/NaOH is not too much when dissolved into 3 liters of water and has worked out very well for me when I have increased the NaOH that much for the final couple of extractions netting an unexpected bonus of alkaloid.

Due to the recent difficulty of finding pure NaOH crystals on the store shelf in the form of a drain opener some individuals have reported other bases such as KOH or potassium hydroxide can be used in place of NaOH which may be true, I do not see why not but I do not know of anyone who has reported to have successfully used that kind of base. Red Devil Lye used to be the most common source for easy to find off the shelf NaOH in the past but due to its wide spread use to manufacture illicit drugs has been voluntarily removed from the market by the manufacturer. Although if hard pressed, NaOH can be made from simple table salt through electrolysis with plus and minus electrodes with water unless absolutely necessary to go to that kind of trouble it is obviously far easier to just purchase sodium hydroxide online through one of the auction web sites which is being sold for candle making, baking (food grade) and biodiesel projects than to make your own.

Caution: When adding NaOH to water to make a basified solution the chemical reaction will produce near boiling hot water which can boil over or spirt out of the container. As a safety margine do not combine extremely hot basified water to the root bark powder or vice versa if the temperature is over 120 degrees F. which if only 20 degrees hotter can possibly cause vaporization of the freebase alkaloid released into the solution to evaporate out of the mix and into the air reducing the total potential yield.

Choice of Solvent:

Many solvents can be used to extract DMT from plant materials, dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride, DCM) is good one but difficult to acquire at high purity without other solvents mixed into it without special ordering from a chemical supply house. If you do use DCM this solvent is heavier than water and instead of floating on top of the aqueous mix will go to the bottom and may cause a problem due to the basified water being pushed out of the root bark and difficult to separate from this solvent later. Naphtha seems to be the most common solvent for extracting DMT from plant materials in use right now which can be obtained from several sources.

What kind of naphtha is the best? I do not have an answer for this one but I can tell you what some individuals are using. VM&P naphtha is one source people have been using which is usually fairly clean, others use Ronsonol lighter fluid which is also naphtha. There is another solvent which can be used instead of naphtha and that is hexane which has been reported to be superior to naphtha for extracting DMT, although most naphtha contains an amount of hexanes too. Hexane can be purchased from art supply stores under the brand name of Bestine which is used as a rubber cement thinner. No matter what solvent you use you should check it for residuals by evaporating a portion of it in a clean bowl to see if any kind of oily contaminate remains.

The more solvent you use to absorb the alkaloid out of the basified root bark the easier it will be to separate from the aqueous mix each time, leaving some behind which will have its contents diluted into fresh solvent on the second, third or last long term extraction if you choose to do so. While 100 ml per extraction of 250 grams of root bark powder when done three times or more over may be far more than is required for the amount of alkaloid extracted, on a solubility basis, more solvent makes separation much easier each time if any amount of emulsion is present. Although in my opinion using more solvent is better in that respect, more will obviously increase the total amount of evaporation time required to net the alkaloid.

Mixing Naphtha and Trouble with Emulsions:

Naphtha has a lower specific gravity than water and will float on top of the aqueous mix of root bark powder, once stirring has stopped. Just stir the naphtha into the mix from a slow to moderate rate to reduce the amount of bubbly emulsion which might form. The problem with having an emulsion is that when it comes time to separate out the solvent from the solution of basified water the more bubbles which form in the solvent the less solvent you can separate out from the aqueous portion of the mix causing some of the alkaloid contained in the emulsion which is a mix of both solvent and water to be left behind. If the pH of the base adjusted water and root bark powder is not high enough mixing too fast will cause an emulsion to form which will not break down on its own even if waiting days for it to subside. At the proper pH of ~13.5 emulsions are not easily formed even through fast stirring which will last more than a few minutes after the stirring has stopped. However, a fairly slow to moderate speed stir of the naphtha into the aqueous mix is all you need to do, just fast enough to make sure the root bark powder is not allowed to settle to the bottom of the mixing container while stirring the naphtha into the solution.

Separating the Solvent From The Aqueous Mix

The best tool for this is a separatory funnel which is simply a glass container with a valve on the bottom which will allow the heavier aqueous solution to be poured off of the naphtha floating on top simply by opening the valve. Some individuals use plastic baggies for this purpose by cutting one of the bottom corners out of the bag so that the heavier watery half can be drained off and pinching the bag off with their fingers just as the last of it goes out with the lighter naphtha remaining in the bag which is then drained into another container for evaporation. I do not like the idea of mixing chemicals and solvents in sandwich bags due to possible contamination and refuse to use that method unless I could find some kind of bag I know for sure will not be leached by chemicals or solvents.

This particular extraction process makes using either a separatory funnel or a baggie more difficult for separating the solvent from the mix because the heavy and muddy root bark powder is left in the extraction container which would clog up either of these. If you do use a separatory funnel or homemade device to drain the aqueous solution off of the naphtha from the bottom I would wait for the root bark powder to completely settle to the bottom of the mixing container and then pour the basified water and naphtha off the top into another container but chances are unless you wait many hours you will still get enough of the root bark powder to clog a separatory funnel.

Instead of using a separatory funnel I have found it easier to just use more solvent than I need for each of the multiple extractions done to a single batch of root bark and carefully pouring the solvent in the mixing container off the top and into a large measuring cup allowing some of the watery mix to go out with it. Then I can carefully pour the naphtha in the measuring cup off of the dark aqueous solution in the bottom and add it back once the naphtha has been separated from it.

Evaporating Solvent

Evaporating naphtha can take a very long time if placed in a deep bowl or container. To speed things up use a broad flat glass dish to increase the surface area of the solvent to air as much as possible and place a fan nearby to blow across the top of the fluid to speed evaporation. Never do this in an enclosed room and always have sufficient ventilation, especially if using a fan with their sparky internal commutator brushes.

Purifying the extract

Although many report that the extract from this process can be used as is others have found that purifying the alkaloid is a must do for them. This can be accomplished by running the extract solids through a full acid to base defat or by a couple of other ways. The freeze-precip method works fairly well. This is done by dissolving a gram of extract into a small amount of naphtha and placing it in a freezer for a few hours so that the fluid will chill to near zero degrees F. causing the solubility of the naphtha to be reduced so far that it will not hold very much of the alkaloid which causes it to deposit on the sides of the container allowing the naphtha to be poured off (saved, evaporated and worked again) to net nearly white colored DMT which is scraped off the sides of the glass. This method will NOT work if you have too little alkaloid per quanity of naphtha vise versa, too much naphtha for the amount of alkaloid dissolved into it. The best way to do this is to prepare some warmed 100-120 degree naphtha and then place your extract (i.e. 1 gram of waxy alkaoid) in a small glass or jar and slowly pour in a very small amount of naphtha into the extract, just a little bit, a few ml and then stir the extract into the solvent you have added until it will not longer dissolve any more, adding more naphtha as necessary to completely dissolve the extract but no more than is needed. You want to completely dissolve the extract into the fluid to the point where the naphtha is completely without any kind of cloud to it but not beyond that point. To be sure you do not over shoot keep adding only small amounts of naphtha and continue stirring the extract into it until you reach the point where it has all completely dissolved and do not add any more solvent or this process will not work out as well as it can.

Once the naphtha has become saturated to its maximum amount of alkaloid to the point where it is no longer cloudy seal the container and put it in a very cold freezer. After a few minutes the naphtha will cloud up as the alkaloid starts to precipitate out of the solvent but should not be removed from the freezer until the fluid clears. The cold naphtha can be from clear to yellow colored but should have no amount of cloud to it or the alkaloid which can come out of the fluid has not precipitated out yet. Once the fluid has been chilled to a low enough temperature, and allowed enough time to settle the fluid will become completely translucent. At this point you can then pour the naphtha into another container (saving and evaporating it, reworking the same way) and let the glass dry for an hour or more so that you can scrape the purified alkaloid off the sides and bottom of the glass for collection. The naphtha you poured off can be evaporated back down and reworked the same way again but will likely be far darker or perhaps a bit more gummy due to the impurities left behind in it.

Another way of purifying the extract is to take, for example, 1 gram of extract and place it in a small glass cup of some kind and slowly not to disturb the spice pour in, for example 50-100 ml of naphtha and water bath heat (the same as a regular canning food jar partially submerged in hot water) the solvent in the jar to about 130 degrees F., but not much hotter or the solvent will begin to hard boil. Once the naphtha is hot enough the extract will begin to melt and bubble to a little bit form a syrup like blob in the bottom of the container. Continue allowing the spice to melt and spread out in the bottom of the jar to form a film covering the entire bottom and lightly swirl the naphtha without touching the goo in the bottom for just a couple of minutes or so. Once most of the alkaloid has dispersed into the solvent and all which remains is a thin yellow fatty puddle in the bottom of the glass carefully pour the solvent off and into another container for evaporation (or freeze precipitation to further purify it if you did not use too much solvent). You might want to add more naphtha to the jar with the slime in the bottom and do it again until you have substantially reduced the amount of goo on the bottom without dissolving much of these fats into the naphtha but each subsequent fraction of solvent will have more of the fatty impurities in it. You do not want to stir it up much when using this method because these gooey fats will eventually dissolving into the naphtha but the alkaloid will dissolve into it much quicker than the fats, that is why this will work to purify the extract.

If you want to recover every little last bit of the alkaloid you can get at from the remaining goo the acid to base defatting process is the thing to do to get the rest of the spice out. The above two methods work great with extract which is not too processed but once you have worked the extract as best you can with the above two methods to purify it the only thing left to do with a heavy goo is to use the A-B method. Simple store bought vinegar can be used to acidify the goo by just dissolving it in the 5% vinegar which has a pH of about 3.5 (this is not pure vinegar, store bought vinegar is only five percent vinegar). The goo will break down very easily in vinegar, stir it with your finger if you like or put it in a small canning jar, warm it in a microwave or a hot water bath and shake it until all of it is dissolved. Once dissolved make sure the pH is still acidic because the spice in the goo, as a base, will tend to neutralize the acid towards base so testing the fluid with pH papers (or taste, if it still tastes acidic like vinegar) to make sure it is still acidic is a good idea. Once you have confirmed the pH is close to 3 or 4 then pour in some naphtha and either stir or shake it for a few minutes to defat the vinegar.

Once the naphtha settles into its own layer floating on top of the vinegar you can pour it off but I would keep it and evaporate it to make sure none of the alkaloid is in it. You could do this a couple or more times over to make sure you have all of the fats out of the vinegar. The alkaloid is turned into a salt in the presence of a strong acid and should not be accessible by the solvent while the fats are, that is how this method works but to get the spice back out you will need to add NaOH/lye to the solution to raise the pH to about 13 or so to be able to efficiently extract the spice with naphtha. That is all there is to it, the A-B process is very simple but be sure the extract the solution a few times over to make sure you have gotten all of the spice back out of it.

Crystalline DMT

When solvents containing DMT are evaporated different purities of alkaloid and rates of evaporation produce different crystalline patterns. Depending upon purity, the formations produced can vary from small white raised bumps which may or may not appear to have a crystalline pattern within them to a fine pointed array of delicate crystalline needled formations. Ninety plus percent purity extract, when evaporated out of a solvent and depositing upon glass often produce small but highly defined white crystalline needles which when viewed under intense light will sparkle and upon close examination via high magnification can be seen to actually be without color and completely clear, if pure.

Confirming the Extract is DMT

If your extract will both melt at a temperature close to 120 degrees F. and then when cooled to room temperature form into a crystalline structure in an hour or two this is also one way to know you have DMT but not the purity. Although you cannot determine purity this way such as whether the extract contains fats or trace amounts of NaOH, none of the chemicals which are used to basify root bark or other plant materials for the extraction of this alkaloid with solvents will melt anywhere near that low of a temperature. Also, DMT has a very particular strong plastic like smell and never dries to a hard state, even when in the pure crystalline form DMT will always be fairly soft and have close to a wax like feel.


this tek is an ongoing edit, adding more information as I can.

 

Heraclitus' Recrystalization Tek

Here's another salvage from DMT World.


DMT Recrystallization for Beginners:

Recrystallization is an art. There are as many ways to recrystallize as to paint a picture. This is an easy way to recrystallize dmt, but it is by no means the best or only way. This procedure uses naptha because it's commonly available to people working with dmt, but solvents like heptane or hexane work even better.

1. Add 20 to 25ml of naptha per gram of dmt to a glass container. A small flask or beaker is ideal. Then add the dmt.

2. Heat the beaker to 40 or 50C. A pot of recently boiled water is plenty hot. (NO FLAMES OR SPARK SOURCES AROUND NAPTHA)

3. After a minute or two of heat, the dmt should melt and mostly dissapear in to solution. Very often a mass of yellow/orange goo will sit on the bottom and refuse to go in to solution. If at this point the naptha goes yellow, let it cool for a little while and the yellowness should fall out leaving the naptha clear.

4. Carefully pour as much clear naptha off the insoluble junk as you can in to another container. This container must be something that you can recover crystals from later. (optional - while transferring from one container to another, pour the solution through a very small filter of some sort. a bit of cotton ball in a funnel for example)

5. Add another 5ml or so of naptha to the original container, and add heat again. Again pour off as much clear naptha as possible in to the other container.

6. Cool the clear naptha as slowly as possible. Let it at room temperature for a few hours. Crystals should begin to precipitate. (optional - you could add a few seed crystals for better crystal formation) Then stick it in the fridge or freezer for at least a few hours.

7. While the beaker is very cold, pour the naptha off the crystals. Freezer temperature naptha holds very little dmt, but feel free to evaporate it to make sure.

8. (optional - Scrape the crystals in to a coffee filter, and pour 10 or 20ml of very cold water over them.)

And that's it. Repeat as desired.

It's important to remember that not all naptha is created equal, and your naptha may dissolve more or less than 1g per 25ml. If signficant amounts of dmt are left in the original container after you do this process (more than 100mg), use slightly more solvent next time.

Syrian Rue Extraction Tek

Here's a Rather Simple Extraction Tek For Syrian Rue (from http://www.spiritelf.com:

Author:

a dmt troll

Submitted on:

Sunday, October 15, 2006

Extracted from:

Syrian Rue

Chemical obtained:

Harmine (and other Harmala alkoloids)

Extraction Time:

less than an hour

Rating:

[unrated]

Equipment:

Syrian Rue seeds, coffee grinder (very helpful to crush the seeds), stove, stainless steel pan, lemon juice, coffee filter

Simple Syrian Rue Extraction:

Formatted a little bit. Originally from Lycaeum

1. Take two tablespoons ground Rue and bring to boil with 3 cups of water and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.

2. Let boil for 5 minutes. Let cool and then filter the grounds through a coffee filter, paper towel, or cheesecloth. Keep the liquid pour off separate from the grounds. You can boil and filter the grounds with water and lemon juice two more: times to get a higher yield of harm(al)ine. You can also wrap ground seeds in a coffee filter. staple it. shut, and boil it like a teabag for a half hour.

3. After boiling and filtering the grounds, set them aside.

4. Take the murky brown pour-off. bring it to a slow boil and let boil for 20 to 30 minutes. The water will boil off, leaving a very sticky brown resin. It. smells like a rich coffee or unsweetened chocolate, and tastes quite bitter. It is water-soluble, so it- cleans up easily.

This resin is a crude harm(al)ine extract. When cooled and dried, the resin can be scraped and molded like clay. The resin can also be rolled into a ball and smoked for mid hypnotic effect.

For oral ingestion, a ball of resin extract- roughly the size of an aspirin tablet is more than adequate to potentiate organic tryptamines tie. DMT, psilocin, psilocybin, and their many analogues) for ayahuusca- like effects. "Remember, with the addition of Syrian Rue, your mushroom trip will be twice as strong and ten-times wierder. Be sure to adjust your normal dosage!

Noman's Extraction Tek-As Edited By Zhah

DMT for the Masses

...a mhrb extraction tek by Noman


Disclaimer
==========

First thing's first. Performing this procedure is illegal in most
countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do not
perform it myself where illegal.

The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure
as much as possible and make it doable for the average person in the
average kitchen in an evening. While I think that I have accomplished
this, it does not mean that one does not have to do their
homework. You should read a few teks before deciding on one and
research the chemicals and procedures that you will be using. I don't
give instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for
example, because I assume that you have educated yourself on these
simple procedures and that I don't have to clutter up my tek with
them. You should treat this procedure as a starting point from which
it is up to you to discover the best way to proceed based upon the
materials and equipment available to you.

Okay, so onward to DMT for the Masses.

Have fun, be safe, and share your findings!


Materials
=========

To Extract DMT from Mimosa hostilis root bark (mhrb) You will need:

* Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves

* Mimosa hostilis root bark

* A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)

* Mixing jar -- this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight
fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a
gallon pickle jar can do 200g.

* Water

* Lye (granulated NaOH)

* Vinegar (for neutralizing lye spills)

* Naptha -- get VM+P and not lighter fluid

* Collection jars - 4 wide mouth 8oz (250ml) jelly jars with lids

* Separating apparatus - a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning
and decanting will work fine

* Coffee filters

* Rubber spatula

* Very cold freezer -- should freeze ice cream HARD

* Non-sudsy ammonia (10% solution, e.g. "janitorial strength" is optimal but 5% "household strength" will work)

* Eye-dropper


Extraction Procedure
====================

1. The first step is to pulverize the bark until it's just fiber and
pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run
through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need
pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It
needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine
and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey
purple boogers, wear a mask.

2. Mix 15ml water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For
example: 50g bark would require 750ml water and 50g lye. One level
tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary
considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is
dangerous. Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and
have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean
up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until
completely dissolved.

3. Add the bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for
awhile. An hour or so.

4. Now add 1ml naptha per gram of bark in the mixing jar and turn the
jar end over end. Do not shake or splash or there will be a
tendency for the solution to form an emulsion. Simply roll the
naptha around in the bark solution. Do this for one minute and
then let the jar stand until the naptha has pretty much separated
to the top. Repeat agitation three more times.

5. After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha
(top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in
the mixing jar with the bark.

6. Put the collection jar in the freezer.

7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction
in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any
strays.

8. Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for
you in the morning.

9. Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the
naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down
producing a residue which can be further refined (see
recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides
of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down
onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will
still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will
scrub them out nicely.

10. Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of
times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coffee
filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY
ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. This will remove
any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If
you can get 10% ammonia ("janitorial strength") all the better.
Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it
suds, get a different bottle. It won't take much, 100ml or so for
a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted,
stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash
away (25-45%) but it's nothing you want to be smoking
anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the
ammonia wash).

You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight
of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this
point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although
recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you've had
a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you
won't want to use anything else.


Recrystallization
=================

The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more
solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes
varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of
different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different
solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but
heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine -- a rubber cement
remover.

Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the
recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses
in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever
solvent you use will be extremely flammable, so don't use a gas stove
or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be
melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by
little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use
as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20-30ml of
solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.

Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool to room
temperature. Remove the DMT container and cool in the refrigerator,
then the freezer. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity
atop a pellet of slag which still contains quite a bit of DMT but also
lye if you skipped the ammonia wash. Filter the solvent and separate
the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be refined in one or two
more recrystallizations into pure clear DMT if desired. The slag can
also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The
solvent can be reused or evaporated down and the residue scraped and
cleaned. And don't forget to scrub those jars and utensils with your
favorite smoking herb!

The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting MHRB (2+ hrs to smokeable)

The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex
A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB

Extraction Time: 1 gm in 2.5 hrs, 4 gm in 7 hr, 7.5 g total @48 hrs from Mexican MHRB Inner Root Bark

Equipment: 5 Litre ceramic mixing bowl, Potato masher, 2000 ml measuring cup, Large flat glass baking pan, Fan, VM&P Naphtha; hardware store, NaOH sodium hydroxide; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye.

Foreword:

This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.

Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:

Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark.

Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours.

Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.

Dry defat without acid

Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature.

Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark.

If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:

1. Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.

2. Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup.

3. Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better).

4. After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).

5. After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).

6. After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl.

Note: If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out.

7. Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster.

8. After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.


Extraction notes:

When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.

Soaking the root bark in basified water

The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown.

The first extraction cycle:

After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it.

Second extraction, NaOH doubled:

Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark.

Third extraction

After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.

Forth extraction, long soak:

After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl.

Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming:

For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark.

Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems:

A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.

Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work:

Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it.

Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix:

When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out.

To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark:

Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.

When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation.

If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield.

There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extract when the temperature was allowed to rise to 130+ degrees for an hour. Just in case, if you do one of these extractions at the high pH called for in this tech to help break the root bark down (and to increase the amount of yield which comes over at a pH of 13.5) I would limit the amount of time the root bark soaks in the basified mix to no more than three days.

A few last words about the tek

Although I have written this tek as a how to do guide, it is also a report and not meant to imply that this is "the way" to do an extraction, it is just one way which I am sure can be improved upon as people start getting more experience with it. I might not be doing everything just right, but I think I am close with the amount of yield that I was able to get. Heating is the big question, should we heat a basified mix at all? I don't know, but the yields do come over fast if you do. Maybe the safe thing to do is only heat the mix just prior to the last hour or so and keep the mix at room temperature the rest of the time.