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ORGANIC DMT extraction method: Is reliable? Options
 
WhiteDemon
#1 Posted : 1/15/2019 6:45:21 AM
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Hello! This is my first post!

I spent last 2 week researching and learning for the best extraction method for me.

Yesterday i found this organic & food safe method that i will copypaste below , and i want to know if its reliable , thanks in advance

THE METHOD :"
So many of you still post about not being able to find naphtha or xylene in your country/local area. Don't extract with hydrocarbon solvents. Even using state of the art vacuum filters and ovens you're NEVER going to get 100% of a solvent off of an extracted product. EVER. That means you and your dumb buddies dicking around in your kitchen are ABSOLUTELY going to end up with a contaminated extract if you employ said methods. A friend of mine tells me that spice extracted with these heavy solvents absolutely have a taste to them that spice made with acetone or ethanol doesn't; if it's present enough to be tasted there's more than a negligible amount left over in your batch. Your body can't break these molecules down. That means years from now those bits of naptha or xylene that you inhaled or ate are still gonna be bouncing around your bloodstream stealing electrons from other molecules in your body and suffocating your cells (yes, this also means that you shouldn't make BHO and should dab QWET hash oil instead). There's enough carcinogenic shit in our environment today as it is. You shouldn't be ingesting any of it at all, much less when your undergoing healing and your nervous system is as sensitive to outside stimuli as it can be.

This tek will use either acetone or ethanol (190 proof drinking alcohol) as the solvent. Even though both are safe won't some still be left over once evaporated? For sure, BUT:

Acetone and ethanol are not heavy hydrocarbon solvents. CONSIDERABLY MORE will evaporate off the resulting extract than naphtha, xylene, toluene or whatever would be able to even under the most optimal conditions. Even if that wasn't true at all....

Acetone and ethanol are incredibly safer to ingest. YOUR BODY CAN BREAK THEM DOWN. Your body makes acetone, albeit in small amounts. Even so the fact that it is a normal byproduct of human metabolism attests to it's non-toxicity. Yeah you don't want to drink a container of nail polish remover but up to a certain point we know that it isn't neurotoxic, carcinogenic or nasty to your body.

Ethanol is also relatively non-toxic. Your body can break ethanol down. Alcohol is neurotoxic and carcinogenic but we all know that taking a sip of beer realistically isn't going to cause you that much cancer. Ethanol is an incredible solvent which also makes some very tasty hash oil if used correctly. An important note here is that it is not recommended that you substitute ethanol for isopropyl alcohol. IPA evaporates fairly cleanly but the potential leftovers should worry you. Our bodies can't metabolize IPA safely because the by products our liver turns it into are very toxic. Probably not enough to be worried about immediately but if you want some proof of its toxicity there are reports on the web of people who smoke IPA hash oil that've had lasting hallucinatory problems and other perceptual disorders. Steer clear.

If you use ethanol also make sure that it isn't de-natured. De-natured ethanol isn't taxed so the govn'ment puts toxins in it to kill muhfuckahz that try to get slammered without paying up for un-poisoned liquor.

The beauty of this tek is that except for maybe 100% acetone or 190 proof liquor all of the items needed for this extraction can be bought in your local supermarket. Safety gear is recommended if you're a numbnuts but you're not going to go blind immediately by getting any of this shit in your eye. These ingredients are also safe to dispose of (that paint thinner you flush down the toilet or throw in the garbage makes baby seals covered in oil cry). This tek is for informational purposes and should only be attempted in countries where it's legal to extract spice. Don't do this in countries where your government has made it illegal to awaken yourself to their attempts at establishing enough population control to hijack the coming global nervous system and turn it into a hive-mind.

Materials: •Bark •Blender •Distilled White Vinegar •Baking Soda •Two Stainless Steel Pots (Aluminum pots will oxidize in the presence of acids and bases) •Turkey Baster •Two 1000ml mason jars •Glass baking tray or something else to evaporate onto •Butter muslin or cheesecloth •Sunflower oil •100% Acetone or 190 Proof Ethanol (Drinking Alcohol) •Stainless steel mesh strainer •Funnel •Coffee Filter

Freeze and thaw your bark three times. This breaks down the cells in your bark and allows them to burst open easier releasing goodies.

Put your bark in a blender and blend until it's fine. If it's still frozen the bark will be easier to break up by hand. Break bigger pieces into smaller chunks and blend a little bit at a time so you don't fuck your blender's motor.

Put your blended bark into the pot with water and a dash of distilled white vinegar. One of the best things about this method is that you don't really need PH papers if you're not excessive with your vinegar in the initial steps. 30 ml of vinegar is more than enough for each gallon of water so use that or a tad less. Boil the material for an hour and a half. At the end of the boil pour the mixture through your mesh strainer into the other pot. This other pot is going to contain your reduced, combined boils. You can start reducing now if you like but just make sure you put this pot on a lower temperature so that all the water doesn't evaporate and burn your hard work while you're doing your additional boils on the bark in your first pot. It happens. You will start swearing if it does. After you've strained the bark throw it back in the first pot and do two more acid boils on it by adding more vinegar and water. Strain the material into the reduction pot after each time.

Once you've done three acid boils and gotten them all in your second pot you're going to reduce it down enough to fit into your jar or whatever you're going to defat in. Those 1.5 liter glass jugs that wine come in can also work but you want the container to be at least 1000 ml and made of glass. You're going to need to have some room for the oil to also fit in the jar and move around so if you're using a 1000ml mason jar reduce your combined boils down to about 800 ml.

Wash the mesh strainer so there's no leftover bark from the earlier strainings in it and then put your butter muslin inside the strainer. If you got generic cheesecloth instead it'll still work, but you'll have to layer it a few times in the strainer so it's bunched up since the holes in standard cheesecloth are a bit wider than the holes on a piece of butter muslin and you want a semi fine filter (but not as fine as a coffee filter). Put the strainer in your funnel and put the funnel in the jar. Pour your reduced, collected boils into the strainer so it filters into the de-fat jar.

It's helpful to do this step and the previous one immediately after reducing all of your boils. Because they'll still be hot after boiling this de-fat step will work much better as the fats and tannins are more soluble in the oil at higher temperatures.

Pour 100 ml of sunflower oil into the jar. Cap the jar, shake it vigorously for two minutes and then let it sit for a while. Oil doesn't separate very quickly from the mixture. When it separates enough for your liking suck off the top layer of oil with your turkey baster and put it into your second jar. Pour 100 ml of oil into your main jar again and repeat this process. I'd recommend doing at least four defats although honestly it'd be better if you just did it until you stop pulling a lot of visible fats. They'll cloud the oil and be extremely visible once the oil and water separate so just keep doing it until you aren't getting much in the oil. The more pulls you do the cleaner the result.

Like I said oil doesn't separate from water very quickly at all. When you transfer the oil to your second jar some water will likely fall out into the bottom of the jar over the next half an hour. You want this so when it does suck out the bottom layer of water and throw it back in the main jar.

For those that have performed paint-thinner extractions and are confused right now we aren't extracting any active chemicals here. They are still bonded to the vinegar salts and will remain in the water. Since we're going to be freebasing the spice in the next step this de-fat allows the product to be cleaned up a bit. The resulting goo would be smokable even without this step; it just helps to reduce the end weight and remove some waxy fats that aren't desirable.

7) Scrub your turkey baster out so there's no oil residue inside of it. Clean one of your stainless steel pots too if there's any bits of unfiltered bark in there. Once they're clean grab your main jar with the acid boils and suck out the water from the bottom of the jar and squirt it into your pot. The reason you suck from the bottom is because there will be some leftover oily bits in the top of your jar from your defats and you want to avoid getting that into the pot. It's not the worst thing if you do it just might latch onto the freebased spice in a few steps and it could hurt your final pull with your solvent a tiny tiny bit. Once everything's in the pot reduce it down to a tiny ass puddle. You need to keep it on a low boil and watch it carefully because there's a huge risk of boiling all the water off and hosing your work here but the puddle's going to have to evaporate in open air during the next step, which is fairly slow. However much you can reduce here helps. Just make sure you keep an eye on it and check it frequently. Once it's reduced enough for your liking pour the concentrated puddle into your baking tray to evaporate.

Cool Now you're going to make some sodium-carbonate, which is just sodium-bicarbonate (baking soda) with one of the CO2 groups taken off. Baking soda will only base up to PH 8.5 or 8.8sh. Sodium-Carbonate on the other hand will get the PH up to 11, which is what we want. To do this you either need to put your baking soda in the oven on a glass baking pan at 450 degrees F for an hour and a half or cook it on the stove in one of your stainless steel pots for 20 minutes (Stainless Steel is important). If you do this on the stove make sure you stir everything up with a stainless steel spoon every few minutes and don't put your head over the shit so as to inhale it or get it in your eyes. It's finished when all of it has a very powdery consistency and looks more dusted grey than white.

9) When the water has all evaporated from the baking pan you'll have a red spice-acetate paste. Cover the entire paste with a thick layer of sodium-carbonate. Use more than is necessary and leave just enough room for everything to be mashed up and mixed around with your solvent later. After it's all covered pour a little bit of water over the entire thing to that the mixture is moistened. You don't want there to be tons of puddles cause that'll take more time to evaporate but you want everything to be nice and damp. Leave the mixture to evaporate.

10) Once shit is bone-dry you're going to do several pulls on it using either your acetone or ethanol. Put a coffee filter in your funnel and put the funnel in a glass jar or cup. Pour your solvent onto the mashed up sodium-carbonate mixture and mash everything up using your stainless steel spoon so that it makes contact with everything and then pour the liquid into the funnel so that it filters into the cup. Do several more of these pulls, collecting into the cup each time. Four or five should be enough. Once you've done enough pulls on the mixture wash out the baking pan with some water and then wipe it dry. After that you can pour your collected solvent in the cup back into the baking tray to let it evaporate.

Once your solvent evaporates you can be finished if you want. Some of those fats and tannins we mentioned in the de-fat step can make it into the result of this evaporation if you didn't do any/enough defats. If your product looks a little hard and waxy instead of gooey you can dissolve everything in some more solvent, filter it and evap again. For some reason it seems to grab the goodies and leave the fats behind. I don't know why. Realistically it shouldn't because if the waxyness was soluble in the solvent once it should carry over a second time, but it doesn't seem to. I don't have any explanation as to why.

If you use ethanol keep in mind that it can't be concentrated more than 96% because it reacts with itself above those concentrations so some sodium carbonate might carry over in the remaining 4% of water, but it won't be a lot by any means If it does don't freak out-it can't burn when you smoke this stuff and isn't toxic. Non-toxic is the key thing here."



I dont know if i should post original link to this post. Just want to know if is ok for 50 gr of mimosa .Thanks in advance.
 

Live plants. Sustainable, ethically sourced, native American owned.
 
endlessness
#2 Posted : 1/15/2019 9:06:12 AM

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It works, but there's a few issues I saw by skimming over.

First of all a minor point, but the language.. Is it really necessary to say "shit" all the time, and to call the reader " you and your dumb buddies dicking around" ? Not very professional, loses some credibility.

Secondly, complete misinformation here:

Quote:
Your body can't break these molecules down. That means years from now those bits of naptha or xylene that you inhaled or ate are still gonna be bouncing around your bloodstream stealing electrons from other molecules in your body and suffocating your cells


I don't mean you shouldn't use another alternative to petrochemicals to extract but it is unnecessary to lie or exagerate the dangers of those substances. Either way it is clear this person has limited chemistry knowledge and says some other things which make no sense, for example that alcohol cannot be above 96% because it "reacts with itself" .


Also, saying acetone and ethanol are non-toxic is an exageration again. Sure they may be less toxic, but toxicity is always a matter of dosage, nothing is non-toxic (and saying so may lead people to unrealistically estimate safety and expose themselves to/ingest such chemicals in unsafe doses)


Regarding shaking the oil to defat, don't do that. Shaking greatly increases chances of emulsion, layers might not separate at all or very difficultly and then it's a pain in the ass to resolve it. If you decide to defat, just mix it around/stir but don't shake.

Also it doesn't mention that putting the alkaloid-filled vinegar water into tray and having it "evaporate" may need some help otherwise it can take a long time specially if you're in a humid place. So you can use a bit of heat (less than 100c), like a warm water bath, and/or put a fan nearby to increase the evaporation rate.

That's about it.. Overall, the tek should work to extract DMT. You can see a slightly similar tek here
 
Ulim
#3 Posted : 1/15/2019 9:23:55 AM

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I see no reason why this shouldnt work but the end product will not be comparable to hydrocarbon dmt in quality. Simply because so much soluable plant material gets carried over. Also there are TONS of wrong ideas about chemistry mixed into this.

It is true that acetone and ethanol are safer than hydrocarbon solvents but what is untrue is this
Quote:
"Your body can't break these molecules down. That means years from now those bits of naptha or xylene that you inhaled or ate are still gonna be bouncing around your bloodstream stealing electrons from other molecules in your body and suffocating your cells"


Hydrocarbons dont steal electrons since they arent oxidising agents. You know what steals electrons and kills your cells? The air you breathe. More specifically the O2 in the air and the different products that can occur from it (known as free radicals). Also not all hydrocarbons are born equally toluene and benzene for example are far worse for your health than n hexane.

Also these compounds are basically invavoidable to some extend since hydrocarbons and similar products are everyhwere. As soon as you cook food you probably created some. Be it cooked veggies or meat. Not to mention the millions of different plant oils that contain different hydrocarbons. (Fats are long chained hydrocarbons and will break down when heated forming various products thats why you shouldnt heat oil to much and why deep frying cause cancer next to other decompositon products from deep frying)

Also hydrocarbons are metabolized. By cytochrome p450. Just like other drugs or chemicals that dont belong in your body. The human body is an absolute beast when it comes to self cleaning. Our liver and kidneys are one of the best in the animal kingdom (i mean just look at some rockstars like ozzy how is he still alive????)

You know whats actually funny too. We use FeO3+ to oxidize the hydrocarbons and other chemicals in our body and we actually do the same in waste management facilities. Its called fentons reagent for removal of hydrocarbons from wastewater.

Also depending on the hydrocarbon they can easily be more volatile than ethanol or acetone.

That guy just prolly never properly made dmt using hydrocarbons and just smoked some absolute trash someone incorrectly made. Also if you are ever afraid of hydrocarbons you can easily just make dmt with hydrocarbons and then dissolve it into acetone or ethanol. This way you guarantee to get "trapped" hydrocarbons out of dmt crystals. You can repeat this like 5 times and even if you have sensitive machinery like an NMR or mass spectrometer you couldnt even find a trace of hydrocarbons.

Quote:
If you use ethanol keep in mind that it can't be concentrated more than 96% because it reacts with itself above those concentrations so some sodium carbonate might carry over in the remaining 4% of water, but it won't be a lot by any means If it does don't freak out-it can't burn when you smoke this stuff and isn't toxic. Non-toxic is the key thing here."

This is also not true. Ethanol can be concentrated as much as you want but its hygroscopic, meaning it will pull water from the air. Also this is pretty wrong as well. Breathing in Na2CO3 (sodium carbonate) is TERRIBLE for your lungs. This pretty much balances out all the positive effects you got from not using hydrocarbons. Also i found that dmt that is contaminated with Na2CO3 or NaOH to be extremly unpleasant to smoke or vaporize because i think there is some unwanted reaction happening with Na2CO3 or NaOH and DMT in the heat. While Na2CO3 is not toxic its still corrosive and will damage tissue in your lungs. So if you see white crusty stuff in the dmt you better get that out.

I also attached a paper that directly references the metabolism of n-hexane (one of the main components in naptha) and that also has a lot more info on the metabolism of drugs and chemicals in the human body.

Edit: damn endless you beat me to it. I took to long to write this Wink
 
AcaciaConfusedYah
#4 Posted : 1/15/2019 12:40:16 PM

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It "should" be fine and work. Lol. Kinda ironic, in chemistry, the "organic" solvent often refers to the hydrocarbon solvents. However, it basically means "carbon containing." For example, cooking oils and naphtha are both organic solvents. By organic, are you are implying that it is food safe?

There are a lot of claims. The notion that the "hydrocarbon solvents" cannot be removed from the product is a little misleading. It all depends on your set-up. I've synthesized organic compounds before that have been worked up in pentane, hexane, and heptane - confirmed by NMR - there were no traces of solvent. Bear in mind, some of us have access to instrumentation that others do not. For example, when I would synthesize that very same compound, but let the solvent evaporate under atmospheric pressure, then yes, confirmed by NMR, there was residual solvent. But when I used a roto-vap until "visually" dry, and then place under reduced pressure for an additional day, then there were no indications of residual solvent.

Sure, if people have a goo or hastily scrape freshly precipitated DMT without proper cleaning, they might have solvent in the final product. I understand your sentiment, most "kitchen chemists" want to just see results, without probing further into the health concerns. I usually always tell a person to dissolve their DMT into acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol; followed by fully dissolving the goo or crystals and then allow that to evaporate (under reduced pressure, if you have the set-up).

In the event that there is no way to access reduced pressure, then the acetone, ethanol, or isopropyl alcohol will dissolve the crystals or goo, releasing some of the trapped solvent, and reducing the amount that would be present in the end product.

Although, the amount of solvent that may be trapped in relatively pure crystals will likely not be in concentrations higher than the amount that is inhaled while walking down the solvent isle at the hardware store. I'm not saying that inhaling organic solvent is ideal; but it's relatively inescapable. You likely ingest more organic solvent while opening and pouring the naphtha (or whatever solvent) into a beaker or flask than you would from smoking DMT that had been precipitated from the solvent. Especially if there have been additional measures taken to remove trace amounts.

Give the presented method a try. I'd love to see the end result - and it would be interesting to analyze the sample to see if there are any greater advantages than having access to the proper equipment. Until analysts results - it's hard to say for sure. I found that the water in acetone, isopropyl alcohol, and ethyl alcohol (yes, even in small amounts) can lead to sodium carbonate contamination of the final product. And no, it's not good to expose that to heat or inhale. (If it wasn't safe to put the head over it when it had just come out of the oven and unsafe to inhale then, how would it have become safe to inhale when smoking DMT?)

There last thing: denatured alcohol often contains acetone, isopropyl alcohol, methyl ethyl ketone, or methyl alcohol. It may contain other things, but not always. Depending on the contents of a specific brand of denatured alcohol (some manufacturers add pyridine), it may joist be ethanol and methanol. While unsafe to drink directly, it's not likely to be much of a concern once evaporated. If they add the pyridine, I'd be more concerned.

Take care,
ACY
Sometimes it's good for a change. Other times it isn't.
 
downwardsfromzero
#5 Posted : 1/15/2019 1:32:34 PM

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All the previous comments apply so I'll spare the effort of duplication, but one thing stands out as being particularly illogical with this 'Organic' "tek": especially when using MHRB, performing a so-called 'defat' with sunflower oil - which the method states, separates only slowly from the aqueous phase - is utterly ridiculous as MHRB contains practically no fats in the first place.

If using fattier materials like ACRB or chacruna, performing a defat using a sensible solvent like heptane or light naphtha would be far more effective and lead to undetectable hydrocarbon residue in the final product.

AcaciaConfusedYah wrote:
In the event that there is no way to access reduced pressure

There is no excuse not to use reduced pressure - re-purposing a tyre pump into a simple vacuum pump is an afternoon's work.

Here's why Endlessness might be particularly interested in your results:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=30501

Wink

PS I sometimes dream about making my own 'organic' hexane by extracting butyric acid from rancid butter and then using it as a feedstock for a Kolbe electrolysis. By mixing butyrate and valerate, it would be possible to produce a light naphtha.




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
Th Entity
#6 Posted : 1/15/2019 2:11:51 PM

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After reading few false statements i didnt even bother to read the whole process.

I imagine a younger person jacked up on cathinones who couldnt get his/her hands on pure chemicals to extract pure dmt decied to use "food grade" chemicals and wrote a tek in 10 minutes while under the infulence just to prove him/her self that he knows what hes talking about, and the tone and words used to describe the process are so... rude. Clearly a degenerate.

So much written and so little said and meaning behind it.
Thumbs down
 
Johnsonptd
#7 Posted : 1/15/2019 3:16:39 PM

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Hey whitedemon, here’s a more formal and useful tek that has a lot of success stories to back it up. D-limonene solvent probably won’t be found locally and is more expensive, but it makes the tek 100% foodsafe according to author.

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m.../Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek

Also, when you get to the evap step, if you want freebase Jimjam for smoking, place a flat round Pyrex dish over a pot of water slowly boiling, melt it all down into the brown Jimjam goop, scrape and weigh it, then redissolve it into a little water back into the Pyrex dish. Now you can boil it down again and have nothing but pure freebase Jimjam, or add leaf to make easy Changa or enhanced leaf for smoking, which will smell clean and acetate free. May need a fan to help dry.

Redissolving Jimjam in a little water helps dilute the remaining acetates in the Jimjam to get rid of completely without having to carefully heat and watch for smoke and bubbles.

You can get pure crystal from Jimjam using this method here
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=36861
 
AcaciaConfusedYah
#8 Posted : 1/16/2019 3:14:42 AM

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Th Entity wrote:
After reading few false statements i didnt even bother to read the whole process.

I imagine a younger person jacked up on cathinones who couldnt get his/her hands on pure chemicals to extract pure dmt decied to use "food grade" chemicals and wrote a tek in 10 minutes while under the infulence just to prove him/her self that he knows what hes talking about, and the tone and words used to describe the process are so... rude. Clearly a degenerate.

So much written and so little said and meaning behind it.
Thumbs down


Hey Th Entity,

I do agree that the general tone is somewhat belittling. The author assumes that the majority of people extracting are inferior. I, too, found the language to be.... tacky; not very tasteful.

However, the original poster says that this is a tek that he/she found. I'm not sure where they found it - or why it seemed more appealing than any of the available procedures - but here it is! Lol.

Honestly, I hope that WhiteDemon spends a little more time researching before taking this approach. A majority of people have difficulties on their first extraction. I think that is why most people choose a very simple STB approach.




WhiteDemon,

If you want a food safe tek - check out the links that other people have posted. I encourage you to look at some other options, review the FAQ, and if you have some specific questions that have not already been answered in previous threads, then feel free to ask them in this thread.


Take Care,
ACY
Sometimes it's good for a change. Other times it isn't.
 
Th Entity
#9 Posted : 1/16/2019 8:07:58 AM

I can't think of anything important or deep to add here, excuse me!


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Yes i agree ACY, i aslo recommend a simple STB tek for a person who never extracted and who is new to chemistry. WhiteDemon check this tek out Noman's tek This is not the simplest STB tek but it has good information and if you follow it correctly you will probabbly end up with clean DMT and good yield. Thumbs up
 
WhiteDemon
#10 Posted : 1/16/2019 3:50:27 PM
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Wow thanks you ALL for the replys, you help me a lot.
I dont go with this method anymore. I recoclect all of your info , and thinking in doing NOMAN/cybs extracction.

Thanks you so much guys!
 
ridnovir
#11 Posted : 1/16/2019 9:09:50 PM

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Ulim wrote:
Also if you are ever afraid of hydrocarbons you can easily just make dmt with hydrocarbons and then dissolve it into acetone or ethanol. This way you guarantee to get "trapped" hydrocarbons out of dmt crystals. You can repeat this like 5 times and even if you have sensitive machinery like an NMR or mass spectrometer you couldnt even find a trace of hydrocarbons.



I am intrigued by this. Can someone elaborate on the process/steps to wash freebase with acetone or ethanol? Is it dissolve evaporate repeat 5 times or something else?
 
endlessness
#12 Posted : 1/16/2019 9:45:12 PM

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Yes that is it. The idea is that small amounts of solvent gets trapped within DMT crystal lattices and doesn't evaporate. So when you redissolve the whole thing in acetone or ethanol and evaporate again, the crystal structures dissolve and the trapped solvent mixes with the acetone/ethanol, and it gives it chance to fully evap before your DMT is dry again.

If you do this, don't panic when you're near the end of the acetone/alcohol evap and you dont see any crystals, just see some drops/goo... Give it time, scrape a bit the evapping dish with a knife or something and let it evap further, it will eventually harden up. Won't form nice looking crystals like you might have before with hydrocarbon solvents, but it will work just the same
 
Ulim
#13 Posted : 1/16/2019 11:24:00 PM

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ridnovir wrote:
Ulim wrote:
Also if you are ever afraid of hydrocarbons you can easily just make dmt with hydrocarbons and then dissolve it into acetone or ethanol. This way you guarantee to get "trapped" hydrocarbons out of dmt crystals. You can repeat this like 5 times and even if you have sensitive machinery like an NMR or mass spectrometer you couldnt even find a trace of hydrocarbons.



I am intrigued by this. Can someone elaborate on the process/steps to wash freebase with acetone or ethanol? Is it dissolve evaporate repeat 5 times or something else?


5 times is a bit of exaggeration once should be enough. But yeah the idea is that any solvent stuck in the dmt in some way or the other will get dissolved with the dmt and then will have another chance to evaporate.
Like endlessness mentioned you wont get crystals out of it but more of a waxy substance that takes a long time to solidify.

This is some dmt i dissolved in Ethanol and then let out to evaporate
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=777545#post777545

notice how its different from dmt crystals that come out of the nps but the potency is the same.
 
WhiteDemon
#14 Posted : 1/17/2019 12:28:16 AM
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Good night! Is important to use destilled/deionized water or i can use normal water? ( nomans tek dont said nothign about it) I cant see what are the differences between the methods A/B and STB, is just theprocess and ingredients, or its also affect the yield? Thanks!
 
skoobysnax
#15 Posted : 1/17/2019 3:58:29 PM

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WhiteDemon wrote:
Good night! Is important to use destilled/deionized water or i can use normal water? ( nomans tek dont said nothign about it) I cant see what are the differences between the methods A/B and STB, is just theprocess and ingredients, or its also affect the yield? Thanks!

Grab a jug of distilled water from the grocery. With MHRB I skip the defat. I use a similar Tek to make change (hat tip to q21q21 and Endlessness). I use hops and mullien 50/50 now every time and it's smooth. I don't have real data but IME the extra goods flavor the trip. This will be the best smelling spice you ever had. BTW I use Ms. Wages pickling lime. Some particle may bypass the filter so I redissolve my first evap in 99% IPA and let it settle and decant/filter twice before my final evap. The main reason I use this Tek is that I don't have the same safety issues working as I do with lye and Naptha. The real health danger is when we are working a Tek. Please observe all saftey measures. No open flame and use a dust mask working with the basing materials. Not as harsh as lye but the dust will irritate.
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WhiteDemon
#16 Posted : 1/18/2019 2:15:45 AM
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Hello ! tomorrow i go to Leroy Merlin to look for some Naphta substitute. What exactly i should look for? Any paint thinner is ok?
Thanks!
 
downwardsfromzero
#17 Posted : 1/18/2019 2:28:04 AM

Boundary condition

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WhiteDemon wrote:
Hello ! tomorrow i go to Leroy Merlin to look for some Naphta substitute. What exactly i should look for? Any paint thinner is ok?
Thanks!

No, "any paint thinner" is not ok.

You need to look into this more deeply. If, by the sounds of it, you've decided to use a hydrocarbon solvent, typically known as naphtha, then you need to know how to identify the ingredients of a potential solvent from the label. This is somewhat dependant on the country you're in. (Leroy Merlin is found in 12 countries, so it's a bit tricky to give you specific advice here.)

What country are you in?




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
WhiteDemon
#18 Posted : 1/18/2019 2:59:39 AM
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Hello! thanks for reply. I live in Spain. And i having problems finding all ingredients for the extraction. I dont stuck on hydrocarbon solvent,i ready to use ANY product that can be found in my country, but i insecure of what i should buy.
 
WhiteDemon
#19 Posted : 1/18/2019 3:32:03 AM
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downwardsfromzero wrote:
WhiteDemon wrote:
Hello ! tomorrow i go to Leroy Merlin to look for some Naphta substitute. What exactly i should look for? Any paint thinner is ok?
Thanks!

No, "any paint thinner" is not ok.

You need to look into this more deeply. If, by the sounds of it, you've decided to use a hydrocarbon solvent, typically known as naphtha, then you need to know how to identify the ingredients of a potential solvent from the label. This is somewhat dependant on the country you're in. (Leroy Merlin is found in 12 countries, so it's a bit tricky to give you specific advice here.)

What country are you in?



Hello! thanks for reply. I live in Spain. And i having problems finding all ingredients for the extraction. I dont stuck on hydrocarbon solvent,i ready to use ANY product that can be found in my country, but i insecure of what i should buy.
 
downwardsfromzero
#20 Posted : 1/18/2019 1:32:59 PM

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There was a bit of discussion specific to finding naphtha in Spain about a year ago. IIRC, there was an online farmacia that offered good products at OK (but not cheap) prices. Have a go with the search function, I don't really have time to dig this one up right now.

If you see something on the LM website I'll happily check its details for you and explain how to assess its usefulness.

http://www.leroymerlin.e...ogueria/disolventes.html

MPL disolvente universal is a mixed solvent. All of the components would be quite useful but you'd need a fractional distillation apparatus to separate them.

Otherwise, it looks as though LM isn't the place to go to find naphtha/nafta. You could use one of the other solvent products with a different extraction method, but you'd be better off finding the right solvent elsewhere. It seems that naphtha really is a bit tricky to find in Spain.





“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
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