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Cybs Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek...Designed for newbies. Options
 
Wovendreams
#61 Posted : 4/21/2013 4:24:16 PM
As above, so below


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Cybs, first and foremost, thank you. You have put together a very beautiful manual which is must easier to understand especially with the flow chart, you are very considerate.

I do have one question, the image you posted here is so beautiful, they look like crystal snow flakes and is what I consider that DMT should look like, even though I have not yet done an extraction. I am still researching, well 9 months now Smile but would like to give your tek a shot.

How comes the photo in your tek of the DMT has the slight yellow tinge to it, where as these in this thread were white and snowflake like?

I have read numerous times various reasons, some say impurities in the bark/chemicals, some say its normal. What is the definite reason for this?

Thanks friend

One love
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
cyb
#62 Posted : 4/21/2013 4:37:33 PM

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Wovendreams wrote:
How comes the photo in your tek of the DMT has the slight yellow tinge to it, where as these in this thread were white and snowflake like?
What is the definite reason for this?


Well you will find that most STB (Straight to Base) teks will have an off white color to the crystals due to other plant materials staining them yellowish.
Further re-xing with more specific solvents can clean the crystals to pure white ... but that is really just for show imo.

DMT can exist in many forms with many colors...Honey/Amber Colored Goo, Glass Shards, Sea Urchin Snow Globes, Off White Powder, Red Jim Jam...this list is long...

Whatever your result looks like ... 'the proof is in the pudding' as they say...

If you vape it correctly and find yourself in Hyperspace...you just extracted DMT...

Wink
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Wovendreams
#63 Posted : 4/21/2013 11:03:58 PM
As above, so below


Posts: 64
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cyb wrote:
Wovendreams wrote:
How comes the photo in your tek of the DMT has the slight yellow tinge to it, where as these in this thread were white and snowflake like?
What is the definite reason for this?


Well you will find that most STB (Straight to Base) teks will have an off white color to the crystals due to other plant materials staining them yellowish.
Further re-xing with more specific solvents can clean the crystals to pure white ... but that is really just for show imo.

DMT can exist in many forms with many colors...Honey/Amber Colored Goo, Glass Shards, Sea Urchin Snow Globes, Off White Powder, Red Jim Jam...this list is long...

Whatever your result looks like ... 'the proof is in the pudding' as they say...

If you vape it correctly and find yourself in Hyperspace...you just extracted DMT...

Wink


Finally, a confident answer. So many beliefs were floating around, I have faith in what you say.

Thumbs up

I would rather know before than know after I have inhaled a bunch of lighter fluid, I mean it could come in handy as a party trick at a BBQ so all is not lost, me thinks!

I have a few more questions if you could kindly help again, I have seen this abbreviation floating around HDPE, from my understanding this is some form of chemical resistance plastic. Are the glass bottles you use in your Tek 100% safe, I am sure the lid of the bottom you used has some kind of plastic under the lid as well, I am assuming this wont matter.

I just purchased a cheap coffee blender for £15, will this be OK for already shredded Hostillis? There are so many types of blenders.

Also, my cluedo skills tell me you might possibly be in the UK Cool what brand salt did you use? Is it that special Himalayas salt or just coarse salt from the local?

Finally, does this stuff have a smell when in the freezer? espionage mode - on

So what exactly did you do different for the flakey type in this thread or is it just pot luck what DMT is contained in the particular root you have, I was not aware there was these varying types as you mentioned.

Thanks and much love for this

P.S Just found out you designed one of the headers here on the site, the lady with the head mask, just memorising man.
 
cyb
#64 Posted : 4/22/2013 7:57:26 AM

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OK...Lets see:

1. Solvent evaporation can be expedited with a cold fan but as long as you 'don't' smell solvent in the end product, it should have evaporated cleanly away. Leave it to air dry for a few days if you are unsure.

2. Glass bottles/jars are really the best way to go as glass is pretty inert.
The Cap/Lid is of no consequence and is only touched by a minute amount of the lye mix.
HDPE (High-density polyethylene) has been used by people...but really, how difficult is it to find a glass container?
See Here and Here.

3. A coffee blender should work...but don't be surprised if it breaks or burns out quickly. Root Bark is pretty tough stuff.
If you can, use a 'Glass' Blender (charity shops for cheap throw away ones) the high speed bark will ruin the plastic ones.
Also there will always be some fibrous material left as well as the powder...just throw that in as well.

4. Salt (NaCl) is just that ... Salt ... nothing fancy. Just get the cheap stuff. A big bag of it in Tescos for 69p. (I've used Malden super expensive flakes...no difference)
Try to avoid 'Iodized'...I have no idea if iodine will end up in the spice....would you want to inhale Iodine?
Anti Caking Agents in some salt is fine...made no difference.

5. If you make a lid of Sarang (food) Wrap, over your dish/jar...maybe with an elastic band...there is no reason for any fumes to linger in the freezer.

6. Not sure what 'flakey' stuff you are referring to but I generally get tiny snow globes that can be scraped up with any goo (as in the pictures)...then re-x'd to form closely packed crystals that look like powder. (see pic)
End results will depend on your process and solvents/heat/time used...sometimes it really is pot-luck.

7. Be Aware...not all bark is the same...different variables, locations/harvest time/plant genus...can all have a factor in the % of DMT present.


As for the header...(not sure which one you mean)
I designed the 'Book of FAQ' used on the Research window on the front page art.
Hyperspacial Digitalis Here.
Nexus Gallery Here.
Banner Art Here.

Hope all that helps...

Wink

cyb attached the following image(s):
Snow Globes (3) (1).JPG (80kb) downloaded 1,307 time(s).
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Wovendreams
#65 Posted : 4/22/2013 5:48:41 PM
As above, so below


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Last visit: 20-May-2013
cyb wrote:

OK...Lets see:

1. Solvent evaporation can be expedited with a cold fan but as long as you 'don't' smell solvent in the end product, it should have evaporated cleanly away. Leave it to air dry for a few days if you are unsure.

2. Glass bottles/jars are really the best way to go as glass is pretty inert.
The Cap/Lid is of no consequence and is only touched by a minute amount of the lye mix.
HDPE (High-density polyethylene) has been used by people...but really, how difficult is it to find a glass container?
See Here and Here.

3. A coffee blender should work...but don't be surprised if it breaks or burns out quickly. Root Bark is pretty tough stuff.
If you can, use a 'Glass' Blender (charity shops for cheap throw away ones) the high speed bark will ruin the plastic ones.
Also there will always be some fibrous material left as well as the powder...just throw that in as well.

4. Salt (NaCl) is just that ... Salt ... nothing fancy. Just get the cheap stuff. A big bag of it in Tescos for 69p. (I've used Malden super expensive flakes...no difference)
Try to avoid 'Iodized'...I have no idea if iodine will end up in the spice....would you want to inhale Iodine?
Anti Caking Agents in some salt is fine...made no difference.

5. If you make a lid of Sarang (food) Wrap, over your dish/jar...maybe with an elastic band...there is no reason for any fumes to linger in the freezer.

6. Not sure what 'flakey' stuff you are referring to but I generally get tiny snow globes that can be scraped up with any goo (as in the pictures)...then re-x'd to form closely packed crystals that look like powder. (see pic)
End results will depend on your process and solvents/heat/time used...sometimes it really is pot-luck.

7. Be Aware...not all bark is the same...different variables, locations/harvest time/plant genus...can all have a factor in the % of DMT present.


As for the header...(not sure which one you mean)
I designed the 'Book of FAQ' used on the Research window on the front page art.
Hyperspacial Digitalis Here.
Nexus Gallery Here.
Banner Art Here.

Hope all that helps...

Wink



I have no words to say, like when I experienced my first shroom trip, you have left me speechless. Thanks so much, generally speaking, helpful people are very hard to find, last of a dying breed I tell ya Crying or very sad Blessings, power and light to you friend.

Man hug ! Big grin

P.S Will keep my eyes peeled for a cheap glass one, though I recently discovered a friend of mines really expensive Kenwood food processor Twisted Evil

All of the art here is beautiful, it is a canvas of the true reality our little one resides in.

And Yes, the photo you attached, it kind of resembles snow flakes and for some reason I am just drawn to them. There is something mystical about them. I cant wait to have my first DMT trip, am scared but excited as I have alot of questions I feel I need answers to.

There must be a way to test the root bark out before doing a full extraction to see roughly what you will get, the mystery of the prize is kind of exciting, like the COD mystery box! Not that I have a PS3 but I play now and then at a friends house.

Woven Dreams




 
Continuum
#66 Posted : 5/4/2013 4:54:19 PM

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cyb wrote:
@mnirm
Hey nice yieldage.

You can use as much water as you need for your container.
As long as the aqueous layer (bark/lye/salt/water) is a 'watery' consistency and not thick and sludgy, you will be fine. It needs to be watery enough for the naphtha to penetrate the mix and slip off and separate.

The teks' amounts were to ensure that the aqueous layer reached such a point in the neck of the bottle that the naphtha could be drawn off easily.


Hi,

I going to try my first extraction with this tek soon, and it seems that either 750 ml or 1.5 L bottles are what's available. If I get a 1.5 L, does it make any difference if the extra 500 ml of water is added in the acid, salt or base steps? And would the extra water affect how much vinegar, salt or lye is used, depending on where the extra water comes in? Thanks everyone, and thanks for the great tek write-up, Cyb.
Forge a Path with Heart <3
 
cyb
#67 Posted : 5/4/2013 5:16:53 PM

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Continuum wrote:
does it make any difference if the extra 500 ml of water is added in the acid, salt or base steps? And would the extra water affect how much vinegar, salt or lye is used, depending on where the extra water comes in?.

That should be fine...just fill with extra water at the end, to top up, till you can reach the Solvent layer OK. Thumbs up
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Archtypamine
#68 Posted : 5/10/2013 12:16:58 AM

...somebody help the man help the man!.... Capt. John Yossarian


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Thumbs up Great. I will go both ways but this I'll do 1st. A gracious thank you sir ( if a sir is apropos ).
…those who believe in science are as prone to addiction to imposed dogma and faith as are religious zealots. So one has to be very careful to really step back and want to know the truth.
 
Journeymann
#69 Posted : 5/14/2013 8:48:08 PM

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Cyb, I just wanted to make a couple of quick notes on my finding with this tek on ACTrB (tree bark)

All my pulls are done with Toluene and all my pulls are crystal clear and I am doing this as a warm tek, not cold.

When I steam or boil the ACTrB I pull red and yellow jungle spice.

Also this is very important I feel to get the most out of the material.

I pulled 3 time yesterday at the intervals that you recommended and felt that I got quite a bit out. Actually enough for my first breakthrough!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for that.

BUT I was reading how some folks kept pulling and pulling to get more and it came to me that with all the material still in there that we are really dealing with a 'steeping' setup SSssoooooo.... I put the jar on my water heater which is roughly 32c (85f) for 24hrs with 60ml of Toluene in it the whole time to steep.

I just left the jar alone the whole 24 hours.

When I pulled the 4th time, 60ml, and cold fan evaped. I thought that I didnt have anything in the cup. (I use 4oz custard cups for evaping) BUT I was wrong. There was actually more from that pull than the previous 3 pulls done earlier and I didnt notice it at first because the layer was not only clear but actually covered the whole bottom of the cup whereas the other pulls only covered part of the bottom of the evap. cups and was noticable at a quick glance. I will be doing a 5th pull tonight to see what it gives up.

What am I trying to say about this tek and a.confusa?

1) So far it looks like boiling and steaming a.confusa will give more red/yellow spice whereas with just a warming gives clear pulls even with toluene.
2) Dont toss the based up mix out 'after' doing the pulls even if one thinks it is exhausted!!! Put that jar in a warm spot with the NP solvent in the jar to steep for 24hrs at a time.

I could see tossing the based up mix out if there was no material in the jar (like after a boil and just the juice was in the jar) but it looks like to me that with the material in the jar and kept in a warm place it keeps pushing out more yield of spice.

I just set up a control test on 50g of actual ACRB (root bark) and will pull from it every 24hrs for 7days and see what happens.

I am modifying the tek just a bit and will explain how I set it up.

The setup...
STB instead of A/B
1L Jar with 200ml distilled water heated in the microwave.
30g Salt added and dissolved.
50g of dry powered ACRB added.
Topped off jar to 800ml
Based up to 11.25pH
Added 60ml Toluene to the jar
Sitting on the water heater at 32c (85-90f)
Will pull every 24hrs and add to the same evap. cup for the whole week to not loose any yield. Each day the cup will be cold evaped. to make room for the next days pull. (only 4oz custard cups)
Final yield totals will be figured after the 7th pull.

I WILL NEED HELP SALTING AT THIS POINT BECAUSE I AM A ROOKIE AND NOT SURE OF MY SALTING SKILLS YET. WHAT SALTING TEKNIQUE WOULD YOU GUYS LIKE TO SEE DONE ON A TEST LIKE THIS WITH MY TOLUENE PULLS???

I would like to stay away from an.acetone/ipa(fasa/fasi) because I have had a couple of flops with it so far. My environment is super humid most of the time and it is more hassel then easy.

Should I just go with FASW for my salting and if so, what ratios: Toluene:FASW

I hope this help everyone get clearer pulls from their A.Confusa work.

 
cyb
#70 Posted : 5/14/2013 9:36:43 PM

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Thanks Journeymann.
That's invaluable info for those using this tek for actb.
Even adding more salt after a few pulls can increase the yield a touch.
As you say, keep pulling till nothing comes out...then try one more after a longer soak.
Were you mixing the solvent on your 24hr soaks, or just letting it sit there?
A constant agitation would be ideal with occasional breaks for separation.

I can't help you out on your FASW Q's with toluene as I have not used those chems.

Endlessness has a thread here that may help.(mhrb though...acacia is the new kid on the block)
If not...throw up a new thread and I'm sure someone will aid you presently.

Thanks again for the info...the more that users tinker with teks the more we all learn.
Thumbs up
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Reserve the right to change your mind at any given moment.
 
Journeymann
#71 Posted : 5/14/2013 9:57:28 PM

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cyb wrote:

Thanks Journeyman.
That's invaluable info for those using this tek for actb.
Were you mixing the solvent on your 24hr soaks, or just letting it sit there?
A constant agitation would be ideal with occasional breaks for separation.


I'm lifting my leg with the big dogs now! Woof, Woof! LOL

I mixed in the 60ml really good and deep with a glass stir rod before letting it sit alone with no agitation after that for 24hrs. I think that answers your question.

I will check out endlessness's post that you refer to now.


 
ZenSpice
#72 Posted : 5/14/2013 10:44:55 PM

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Just wanted to post to say thanks for this topic and I just LOVE the flowchart to bits.

Thumbs up Thumbs up Thumbs up
 
cyb
#73 Posted : 5/14/2013 10:53:25 PM

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ZenSpice wrote:
I just LOVE the flowchart to bits.

Courtesy of InMotion...many thanks to him Thumbs up
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ZenSpice
#74 Posted : 5/21/2013 10:38:24 PM

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Back for further study..

Between yourself, NDN, and InMotion I'd say y'all deserve to munch on some huge gold chocolate medals (home made from cacao blend of course hehe).

Seriously fine piece of work Thumbs up Thumbs up Thumbs up
 
23aka23
#75 Posted : 5/21/2013 11:43:56 PM

AKA


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The hardest part for me using any tek is getting the spice out of the material. I've found that boiling the material then freezing, and repeating takes most of the work out of the process. While the material is freezing, I grab a handful out of the freezer, sit at the kitchen table with two pair of pliers and vice-grips, and rip it apart while listening to Old Time Radio (can't beat Jack Benny!) It ends up being a pleasant chore instead of shovelling sand.
Avoid Determinism
 
Journeymann
#76 Posted : 6/3/2013 6:48:37 PM

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cyb wrote:

Thanks Journeymann.
That's invaluable info for those using this tek for actb.
Even adding more salt after a few pulls can increase the yield a touch.
As you say, keep pulling till nothing comes out...then try one more after a longer soak.
Were you mixing the solvent on your 24hr soaks, or just letting it sit there?
A constant agitation would be ideal with occasional breaks for separation.

I can't help you out on your FASW Q's with toluene as I have not used those chems.

Endlessness has a thread here that may help.(mhrb though...acacia is the new kid on the block)
If not...throw up a new thread and I'm sure someone will aid you presently.

Thanks again for the info...the more that users tinker with teks the more we all learn.
Thumbs up


Ok Cyb, sorry for a long delay. Life events and what not. My new girlfriends are doing tek.werk now at their lair.

Here is how thing went with the 7 toluene pulls.

The jar sat in an incubator at 30-35c with 60ml toluene each time and stirred only once when it was added. No shaking due to a busy work life.

The 1st and 2nd pulls were clear then each of the 5 successive days the pulls started to get a little darker and darker each day in the pipette and the receiving dish showed this as well. Looks like the longer it sits the more color one gets. All pulls were made into the same dish and each day the new 60ml of toluene was evaped.

I would have a total of salted total for you at this point BUT on my last pull I accidently/unknowingly grabbed a bit of the emulsion layer and now I have this to clean up. (see photo)

I need to clean this up before salting to get the based up emulsion out, correct?

If so...
Does this plan sound like a safe way to clean this goo before salting?

Redissolve everything in the dish with 200ml of toluene.
Add 25ml of distilled water.
Add lye to bring pH back up a pH of 11.
Use pipette to pull toluene and re-evaporate.

How does that sound?

It seems like a no brainer but I didn't want my girls wasting their time, so I am checking.

I think I am going to have them do A/B's from here on out due to the crusty emulsion layer that the ACRB gives one to work with when doing STBs. My first A/B was really creamy/smooth at the contact point of the 2 layers.

See photo for emulsion contaminated ACRB pulls.

Any help is appreciated. Smile


Journeymann attached the following image(s):
stb.salt.tek.contam.cleanup.question.jpg (32kb) downloaded 1,070 time(s).
 
cyb
#77 Posted : 6/4/2013 2:42:02 PM

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As I said before...I have no experience with toluene and as you have diverted from the tek, it is difficult to advise you in this thread.

'a safe way to clean this goo before salting'

^^ This I don't understand... are you trying to make fumerate?

If you want to clean the pulls of any contaminants, you can put it back in the mix jar and re-pull carefully after separation.
Or re-x the end product in Naphtha.

If you are experiencing problems with your particular ACRB...maybe A/B is a better way to go for you.

Smile
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benzyme
#78 Posted : 6/4/2013 2:58:58 PM

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7 pulls with toluene is beyond kicking a dead horse. most of the alkaloid content will be in the toluene by the second pull. additional pulls are going to pull more impurities.

regarding yields..people post "1.5% yield" "2% yield"..
2% yield of what? what sort of characterization was done, to determine it's primarily the analyte of interest? it could be a mix of alkaloids.

yields are a topic I stay away from, unless I do a m.p. test, and some sort of qualitative test to determine I have extracted primarily the analyte of interest...unless it's "2% total alkaloidal content", then that's a more reasonable assessment.
"Nothing is true, everything is permitted." ~ hassan i sabbah
"Experiments are the only means of attaining knowledge at our disposal. The rest is poetry, imagination." -Max Planck
 
Journeymann
#79 Posted : 6/5/2013 3:02:40 AM

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cyb wrote:

As I said before...I have no experience with toluene and as you have diverted from the tek, it is difficult to advise you in this thread.

'a safe way to clean this goo before salting'

^^ This I don't understand... are you trying to make fumerate?

If you want to clean the pulls of any contaminants, you can put it back in the mix jar and re-pull carefully after separation.
Or re-x the end product in Naphtha.

If you are experiencing problems with your particular ACRB...maybe A/B is a better way to go for you.

Smile


Sorry I missed your previous polite request to post else where cyb... Gotchya this time Big grin
I did post the same question in the FAQ-new members area too soliciting help.

@benzyme
I am not a yield hungry person either, just a new student trying to understand what is involved with the extraction process.

Thanks for your help and new understanding, have gr8 week to both of you! Thumbs up
 
Curiouskid
#80 Posted : 6/10/2013 6:13:38 PM

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Hey guys,
firstly thank you so much cyb for your really easy to comprehend work!!
I was wondering if it was possible to follow this tek but using a tea well reduced instead of a powdered bark?? And would it be the same following or any changes would come into place??
Thanks for any light on my questions :-)
None of this is really happening, SWIM's mind is so sick and bored than it has to invent all sorts of "abracadabrantesques" stories...
 
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