Thank you for answering why would you say so? Do you happen to know what could have gone wrong.

I got my bark added it to some sodium hydroxide, let it sit like 1 hr, added warm lamp oil, used a dropper to separate top clear layer after few up n down bottle twists and warming. Then I sVed that solvent in the freezer, this yellow one was sMe procedure just added yellow naphtha

To be honest with you I'm new to all this barely trying to learn some chemistry I know my basic which is acids and bases. Other than that this is totally new for me but I'm fascinated by the chemistry. Hoping to learn something from someone who can help me make a right dmt extraction with right sources for live seeds if I need any.

This I haven't separated and is being left overnight hoping to separate and freeze tomorrow

How does one crystallize NMT/DMT fumarate goo?
Up to now I've always used NMT/DMT acid citrate. A day popped up where I could dose and I decided I had time to convert a strong dose to NMT/DMT fumarate to try in pill form for comparison to the acid citrate, since I've always heard DMT fumarate is crystalline and not goo I didnt anticipate problems. I based a dose, migrated to xylene, titrated out with 0.1 N fumaric acid (aq) [apparently my medium strong dose is 210 mg] and evaporated. Well, tomorrow is my dose day and I have a beaker with thick goo that resembles the glue I use to fix shoes and, according to weight, is an ~80% solution of NMT/DMT fumarate The refrigerator didnt prompt crystal formation so I moved it back to a warm spot.
Supposedly this salt is not hygroscopic, is there any trick to make it crystallize so I can have a pill tomorrow evening or am I stuck drinking it again?
With the whopping big amount of NMT I was looking forward to not tasting it

dmt fumarate is very bad when evaporated. I have tried to evap it many times and sometimes it takes up to month for quite small amount to fully crystallize. The result is so hard, it is impossible to scrape it from the glass.
So I don't do this anymore, the only way (for me) is FASA, which is so simple and works seamlessly. Even for orange dmt it turns into nice crystals

I was afraid of that.
In the future I may experiment with fumarate goo recrystallization in 99% IPA but the current dose was just dissolved in hot water, and now its time for blast off.
See you in the morning

I have some gooey black changa. It's the result of a crude stb from rue and a crude stb from mimosa. Smells fantastic. Should be potent Considering the amount of bark/seed used. When I hit it with a flame it hardens into a black nugget. A cherry/ember won't form and I can't find much conclusive info on dmt heat sensitivity. If I where to torch a bowl of this impure changa would I destroy all the alkaloids? If so how can I effectively smoke it?

Changa isnt my thing [yet] so take this with a grain of salt, but DMT is best vaporized by hot air rather than by burning it. You could try something like 'the key' or 'the machine' or some other method by which the air is heated and passed through the herb. You may also need to mix a bit more inert herb in if its just melting into a blob, but again I dont have experience there.

Now my question
So, long ago when I didnt have my lab unpacked I extracted ACRB, based, extracted to toluene, salted the alks out as the acid citrate into water, heated the water until all toluene was long gone, and froze it as a "0.5g ACRB"/ml stock solution.
A week ago I took 16 ml of this and decided to try a conversion tek I dreamed up. The process involved saturating it with salt, basing, extracting twice with 76% isopropanol and working from there. The final product was DMT/NMT fumarate and gave full intensity of effects expected from 16 ml of my stock solution.
Well, when the acid citrate solution was getting saturated with salt everything seemed normal until just as it saturated, then it turned milky like someone hit a switch.
Now I am processing the remaining 174 ml of that acid citrate stock because I want fumarate. Again, salt dissolved no problem but just as it hit saturation it turned milky, then due to the larger scale I clearly saw a light orange oil float to the surface. Keep in mind this is still in acid aqueous media.
What in the heck oil am I making? It cant be freebase, obviously.
My best SWAG is that salt and DMT acid citrate reacted to yield DMT hydrochloride and sodium acid citrate and the common ion effect pushed the DMT•HCl out as a saturated aqueous solution What do you think?

...Its now based, the IPA is in and the color migrated to the organic layer but I'm whipping the heck out of it with the stir bar just in case the DMT salts didnt all get based because they were an oil. I'll let the mixture sit for the day just in case it needs time to equilibrate.

Some help please I have been trying to do extraction methods in every way till now I cannot make any crystals and have used about 150 g mimosa powder... This is a batch I did following poormans tek I now have my anhydrous acetone mix, what's next? Some help please I'm new to this Chemistry but I kind of understand it.. I just need orientation please I been trying to get dmt for over 2 months and IDK what I am doing wrong.

I separated about 13 drops of the top layer of dry acetone and placed it in my freezer after almost 2 hours this is how it looks. Any idea if this could be any dmt?

A storm showed up and and flooded my almost dry pull. Can I just wait till the water is evaporated or are any other steps, to finally harvest the goods, necessary?

[edit: Haha.. due to the hot weather, the water, which was quite a bit, already evaporated. ]

Thanks, tseuq

Are you saying that's the end product? I'm a first timer never extracted dmt before, is there dmt in the container?

I did a bunch of vinegar washes on ground rue then combined them based them with lime filtered and soaked the filters in more vinegar before basing again I repeated this process 4x. I ended up with a lot of fine white precipitation. too much I got upwards of 10g from 114g of rue. I washed the precip with water so any excess lime would get soaked up and my yields didn't change. Any chance Im lucky and my rue is just high yielding?

I did nothing to remove the vascinone and deoxyvascinone could that be the extra weight?

i think it's excess lime, lime is not that soluble in water(1.73 g/L (20 °C)).. dissolve in a minimal amount of vinegar then base with lye or a saturated solution of sodium carbonate..

ill give sodium carbonate a try. I also have an issue with emulsions right now. I pulled toluene off my bark but since my toluene was black and my basic soup was black they got mixed and when I tried to salt out the acid reacted with the base and all of the foam got suspended in the toluene. I have added heat and salt what should I do?

You won't be getting DMT to crystallise by freeze precipitation from acetone. That method only works with naphtha. You need to evaporate your acetone, or look - carefully - into the FASA method.

I extracted 125g MHRB in a liter vessel using MAX-ION TEK. I had difficulty dissolving 80gm Rock Sea Salt in 200ml hot water so I poured what had dissolved into Acid mix and added another 50ml water and dissolved more but still not all and poured that in Acid mix and threw rest of salt away, not much but some. Based with 40g LYE and extracted just over 1 gram in 5 pulls.

Question, should I just pull more? Or re-acidify, re-salt, re-base and pull again in a larger vessel? or some other combination?

Thank in advance,
Simply_me

No replies So from what I can gather there is no need to acidify again. I will try another few pulls with warmed Naphtha and see what happens

I know nothing about this TEK, but I would say the goal of salt addition is to increase ionic strength (as the name of the TEK implies). If you were not able to dissolve more salt, you met the goal, there is no point in adding more water and salt.
In fact the salt addition is just small tweak, most TEKs are not using it at all and have almost the same results. Dmt is very willing to transfer even without the ionic push(the salt).