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official extraction help thread Options
 
pitubo
#2741 Posted : 1/28/2018 11:13:07 AM

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Drowning-man wrote:
Use a crock pot for warming solvent much safer.

I am not sure what exact procedure you are advocating here, but I'll state this to be safe and certain:

When heating any flammable solvent, always do so using a pre-warmed hot water bath. Keep flammable solvents far removed from open flames and hot heating elements. Never heat flammable solvents directly in a crock pot on a stove.
 

STS is a community for people interested in growing, preserving and researching botanical species, particularly those with remarkable therapeutic and/or psychoactive properties.
 
swimer
#2742 Posted : 1/28/2018 1:49:39 PM

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swimer wrote:
Thank you for help. Swim has two more questions about acidyfy step. He read that some do multiple acidyfies? Is that true? How does this work? Thought that swim should get desired Ph and move to next step? Also how much time most travelers wait before going to next step? 1h is minimum but what works best?


Can someone answer to this?
 
Drowning-man
#2743 Posted : 1/28/2018 4:02:19 PM

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pitubo wrote:
Drowning-man wrote:
Use a crock pot for warming solvent much safer.

I am not sure what exact procedure you are advocating here, but I'll state this to be safe and certain:

When heating any flammable solvent, always do so using a pre-warmed hot water bath. Keep flammable solvents far removed from open flames and hot heating elements. Never heat flammable solvents directly in a crock pot on a stove.

Yes, im not advocating flame stoves, heating element contact or puting crock pot ON stove. Put container in water in in actual crock pot. The heating element heats from sides not bottom so it wont contact container. Also much better control of temp. Keep warm setting is only like 110F or so and you can remove inner container from heat immediatly. Maybe im in corrects. Just seemed to be a safer option. But yes pree heated water is best.
Then he showed me a river of the water of life, clear as crystal, coming from the throne of God and of the Lamb, in the middle of its street On either side of the river was the tree of life, bearing twelve kinds of fruit, yielding its fruit every month; and the leaves of the tree were for the healing of the nations. REVELATIONS 22:1-2(Holy Bible)
 
JefFlux
#2744 Posted : 1/29/2018 6:46:54 AM

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Thanks null24 & Drowning Man

- working with Acacia phyllodes has led me to the stirring method as it is re-assuring to be able to visually monitor the two layers, as it is knowing that other people get equally good results from stirring instead of rolling agitation.

Browsing for a magnetic stirrer atm, and some also act as heat plates as well... a perfect two birds right there ! It seems that 2 litres is about the maximum stirring capacity for the cheaper ones, but again this is pretty much spot on for the usual 100-300g extractions.

It also seems that when working with acacia phyllodes, maintaining non-viscosity is the key to avoiding emulsions if not reducing an oily end product, as is keeping the temperature low. Good to see downwardsfromzero noting that
Quote:
Pulling too warm pulls more gunk but yields are slightly better
and I think when it comes to acacia phyllodes this becomes a matter of quantity vs quality (even though we all know there is nothing lacking in the quality of full-spectrum goo!).

Can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the acid boil phase of an A/B (80-90 degrees Celsius)? and an optimum temperature to maintain a heat bath at... we have a little thermometer at home for the milk-frother on our new coffee machine so gonna try this out as a way of monitoring temperature for the next lot of 'acacia soap'.

cheers all Smile

 
pitubo
#2745 Posted : 1/29/2018 11:38:17 AM

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Drowning-man wrote:
Yes, im not advocating flame stoves, heating element contact or puting crock pot ON stove. Put container in water in in actual crock pot. The heating element heats from sides not bottom so it wont contact container. Also much better control of temp. Keep warm setting is only like 110F or so and you can remove inner container from heat immediatly. Maybe im in corrects. Just seemed to be a safer option. But yes pree heated water is best.

This is still unsafe.

Imagine what if the container with flammable solvent breaks, spilling its contents into the crock pot? hot or even boiling flammable solvent, or its hot vapors could easily escape the pot and might come into contact with the flames or red hot heating element of the stove.

That is why I wrote about using a pre-heated hot water bath, with any flames or other hot ignition point removed far away from the flammable solvent.

Accidents do happen once in a while. It is important to be prepared in advance, so you can prevent an accident from turning into a catastrophe.
 
swimer
#2746 Posted : 1/29/2018 1:36:39 PM

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JefFlux wrote:


Can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the acid boil phase of an A/B (80-90 degrees Celsius)? and an optimum temperature to maintain a heat bath at... we have a little thermometer at home for the milk-frother on our new coffee machine so gonna try this out as a way of monitoring temperature for the next lot of 'acacia soap'.

cheers all Smile



I read on this forum that for cybs tek woth MHRB it's good to have 55c dropping to 40 and reheat. More than that will give you more plant material. Still im just a noob saying what someone said so can be dramatically wrong. Also wondering what's wrong with overheating and having more plant material. At the end still swim will REX it so will be left with just more of product. hmm

Edit: Swim has to say that he hit almost 2% with 6 pulls and now is sitting on clear snow flakes which dont even need to be rexed! After he finish making diy magnetic stirrer he will try to take some more of it. So much greatfull to Cyb for making this tek and Nexians for help!
 
Drowning-man
#2747 Posted : 2/3/2018 11:12:57 AM

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pitubo wrote:
Drowning-man wrote:
Yes, im not advocating flame stoves, heating element contact or puting crock pot ON stove. Put container in water in in actual crock pot. The heating element heats from sides not bottom so it wont contact container. Also much better control of temp. Keep warm setting is only like 110F or so and you can remove inner container from heat immediatly. Maybe im in corrects. Just seemed to be a safer option. But yes pree heated water is best.

This is still unsafe.

Imagine what if the container with flammable solvent breaks, spilling its contents into the crock pot? hot or even boiling flammable solvent, or its hot vapors could easily escape the pot and might come into contact with the flames or red hot heating element of the stove.

That is why I wrote about using a pre-heated hot water bath, with any flames or other hot ignition point removed far away from the flammable solvent.

Accidents do happen once in a while. It is important to be prepared in advance, so you can prevent an accident from turning into a catastrophe.

Ok, so maybe a double boiler/strainer set up? Preheat water as you stater ans when NP gets to temp you can pull the incert out leaving water. Dont want to fidle with a hot beacer.
Then he showed me a river of the water of life, clear as crystal, coming from the throne of God and of the Lamb, in the middle of its street On either side of the river was the tree of life, bearing twelve kinds of fruit, yielding its fruit every month; and the leaves of the tree were for the healing of the nations. REVELATIONS 22:1-2(Holy Bible)
 
loph
#2748 Posted : 2/4/2018 10:04:32 PM
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I have a question regarding Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach/BLAB. Would it be a good idea to add NaCl before basing? I think I have seen the question posed once before but it got little attention.

Best regards
 
downwardsfromzero
#2749 Posted : 2/5/2018 7:01:48 PM

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loph wrote:
I have a question regarding Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach/BLAB. Would it be a good idea to add NaCl before basing? I think I have seen the question posed once before but it got little attention.

Best regards

It might be worth a try.

You could include a link to the method you're describing because I, for one, don't fancy searching for it.

(loph, what happened to all your other posts? They appear to have been deleted...)




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
loph
#2750 Posted : 2/6/2018 6:52:26 AM
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downwardsfromzero wrote:
loph wrote:
I have a question regarding Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach/BLAB. Would it be a good idea to add NaCl before basing? I think I have seen the question posed once before but it got little attention.

Best regards

It might be worth a try.

You could include a link to the method you're describing because I, for one, don't fancy searching for it.

(loph, what happened to all your other posts? They appear to have been deleted...)


I am new to the forums, if someone goes by this name I will try to change it!

As for the teks:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...nd_Fumaric_Acid_Approach
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...B_-_The_Big_Leisurely_AB

I am using somewhat of a hybrid of these two pretty similar teks. What I would like to incorporate is ChemisTryptaMan's idea of using salt, adopted by cyb for his Max ion/ salt hybrid teks.

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=32567
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=459391#post459391

It would seem like it should be helpful to use NaCl for jorkest's teks in order to pull the dmt faster with limo.

Best regards
 
relaxtrading
#2751 Posted : 2/28/2018 5:30:37 PM

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Hello everyone

I am posting here because i have not other place, and I need help.

I am doing my 3rd project and I am having problems with the first part.

I used

distilled water
vinegar
salt
caustic soda
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek

This time when I put the nafta , it doesn't mix with the liquid just stay in the top. It should first mix and after some time should go to the top, isn't ?

What I can do ?

Thanks
 
Sakkadelic
#2752 Posted : 2/28/2018 5:52:40 PM

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relaxtrading wrote:
Hello everyone

I am posting here because i have not other place, and I need help.

I am doing my 3rd project and I am having problems with the first part.

I used

distilled water
vinegar
salt
caustic soda
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek

This time when I put the nafta , it doesn't mix with the liquid just stay in the top. It should first mix and after some time should go to the top, isn't ?

What I can do ?

Thanks

hello there!

yeah it's not supposed to mix, you need to shake it gently or stir/swirl it around for some time so DMT is transferred from base soup to naphtha, and then you let it sit and separate wekll for around 15 mins and then pull out the naphtha.
what kind of extraction container are you using?
"Is this the end of our adventure? Nothing has an end. We came in search of the secret of immortality, to be like gods, and here we are... mortals, more human than ever. If we have not obtained immortality, at least we have obtained reality. We began in a fairytale and we came to life! But is this life reality? We are images, dreams, photographs. We must not stay here! Prisoners! We shall break the illusion. This is Maya. Goodbye to the holy mountain. Real life awaits us." ~ Alejandro Jodorowsky
 
relaxtrading
#2753 Posted : 2/28/2018 7:11:53 PM

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Hi

I am using a bottle now.
I added more distilled water+soda caustic and now it mix better so it seems that the problem is solved.
I just pulled my third one, and tomorrow I'll do two more. It's looks good now

Thanks for your help !Smile
 
downwardsfromzero
#2754 Posted : 3/1/2018 4:37:36 PM

Boundary condition

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protostar wrote:
I tried to perform an extraction by mixing washing soda with MHRB powder and then adding isopropyl alcohol, and the whole mixture just turned into this greenish-black sludge, and I had to throw away everything.
It was a whole pound of MHRB powder, completely wasted.
I don't know what I did wrong, because I read that this is a valid technique for the extraction of DMT.
Why did it turn out like this?
Thanks

First rule of extraction: never throw anything away until you're sure you've finished. Your situation was eminently salvageable, I'm sorry to say. Next time it would be a good idea to follow an established technique carefully.

You haven't really said much about what you did, just the materials you used, so it's not really possible to say what 'went wrong'. More details please.




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
downwardsfromzero
#2755 Posted : 3/2/2018 11:10:00 AM

Boundary condition

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Well, for a start you can always leave everything to evaporate and start over.

It looks like you wanted a fast and easy short cut to getting the product. What you've said here seems to be that you mixed bark powder with dry washing soda? Were you following any instructions from anywhere? Then you jumped to a conclusion without even checking what had been pulled by the alcohol. You had your IPA extract and didn't check to see what had been pulled... Confused

Have you read this thread yet?

Isopropanol substitutes for ethanol and has the advantage of being nearly immiscible with strong salt solutions (including sodium carbonate).

Read the forum and the wiki until you've got a better grasp of the principles of extraction, then you'll be ready to move forward.




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
relaxtrading
#2756 Posted : 3/2/2018 6:35:30 PM

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Hello

I'm working on another project that is to do a TA extraction from iboga root powder. Can I use the same method as I used for dmt ? https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek
 
downwardsfromzero
#2757 Posted : 3/2/2018 9:40:26 PM

Boundary condition

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No. Iboga TA can be precipitated as freebase by adding base to an acidic solution extracted from the root. Have a look in the Iboga subforum.

There's a thread stickied there.




“There is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
― Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
Oobleck
#2758 Posted : 3/4/2018 1:40:44 AM
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I have my first extraction precipitating now. I used q21q21's tek with lime. Some of the mixture got into the tray when pouring the naptha in is this ok? And should my tray be level in the freezer or is it ok to be tilted?
 
observe
#2759 Posted : 3/4/2018 6:37:04 PM
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Hello,I'm not positive where this belongs but this thread seems appropriate.

Can swim base his ground cebil with a modest amount of a lye and water solution?
 
Four_Statues
#2760 Posted : 3/14/2018 6:06:39 PM

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First extraction of 50g MHRB was going well, followed to a T. Then it came to first pull (11ish hours in base) with naphtha. I added in a splash for 1:1 ratio so around 50ml while in hot water bath. Barely enough to stir in goo so added a bit more, and more, and more....completely over did it with naphtha! Still I went ahead with freeze precipitation and as all you vets im sure know... no crystals 12 hours later. I have now transfered the naphtha to two more trays to enhance surface area for evaporation. Anything else I can do? Going to recombine them after up to 7 hours of available evaporation time before bed, cover, back in freezer. Then in morning check for crystals and if not just reuse for +24 hour pull on goo.

All slagging or tips/advice taken
 
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